Cheap Sheet Metal Brake

[WI_Jeff]

While re-doing my 67 C50 school bus I need to add some duct work so the wife wouldn't get cold while riding. The bus had the side heat vents covered by cabinets. I needed to custom bend sheet metal. Being the frugal person I am (my wife says cheep), I needed a metal brake and didn't want to spend the big bucks to buy one. I found this:

http://www.ch601.org/tools/bendbrake/brakeplans.pdf

I did very little tweaking to fit my needs. I made it so I can remove it from my metal table and just use C clamps to hold it on. To do this I drilled the outside holes and tapped a 1/2 hole in the bottom plate then welded the bolts in place so I could grind the bottom smooth so it would sit flat (I used 1/2" not the 3/8" bolts). Then increased the size of the top hole so the "hold down" plate would fit. I did not use any bolts in the center of the bending area, but did use a little heavier steel on the 2 plates that sit on the table. I also welded the handle and the piano hinge.

The page says it cost about $75 to build. I spent a little more than that, but still around $100, and the brake works great. Anyone who is trying to build custom sheet metal parts or the ones that are "Kinda hard to find" will find this a great ad-on to the garage.

I wish I could say I came up with this but I have to thank Dave Clay of Temple, Texas for this idea.

[blazer2007]

would be nice to see more doityourselve shop projects,engine stands etc

[shortbed70]

The problem with diy stuff now is material has gone up so to build would cast you more than to buy. Now there are some things like cab lifts,bed lifts and other things they dont make are on here just have to search.

[b-rad]

thanks dude that is awesome

[Mike 85]

Thats fine for "Mickey Mouse" metal but you throw a piece of 18ga in that and you'll be in a world of trouble.
I do sheet metal for a living and yeah, it takes a "good" brake to work metal of any thickness.The thicker,the better machine you need.
He obviously needed a larger gap for this preticular bend that can be done with a "real" brake but needs adjusting for the proper radius which most shops won't do as we want tight bends as well as STRAIGHT bends and readjusting a brake is a MAJOR ordeal and not worth the time and expense he would be willing to put out.
Yeah, you can do "deicent" work with this but,I found the Harbor Freight 3' brake to be a real bargin for the money and is as adjustable as one costing hundreds more.Will it replace a "real" break?,No,But for most of what we do metal wise,it's a real deal. I've done ALL the metal work on the 85 with one and coming from the metal world,it's as close as you can get without braking,pun intended,your bank.The "stand" basically sucks but you can mount it on your bench or deal with the wobbly ass legs and stand it up.
It's "usually" on sale for cheaper than this,so keep checking or sign up for the circulars with the discount coupon in it.Otherwise,Go get some angle iron and have at it.Actually,Doing Aluminum is fine with straight 2X4's and some hinges.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91012

[shortbed70]

BEWARE some metal working tools are you get what you pay for.. They are expensive for a reason. I would go box pan 4' if you can afford. I seen summit sells a box pan for like $700 something but well worth it in my mind. Try to make a battery box on a standard brake or a 2x4 thing in one piece. You can also do a seam on an edge. Its fun especially when someone doesnt make a part you need. Just my opinion but if its just a few things here and there than buy something small so when not in use your not upset its in the way or you ask whyd I even buy this thing...But if you want to get more out of it and recover more money from it than get the biggest you can afford and store. Trust me if I had the room I would be doing roll cages,bumpers for off road,modifieds,bodies,interior,brackets bodies anything for a few dollers.. Just what I've learned. OH yea and I know 700 doesnt seem cheap but go price an industrial brake,or shear,or metal muncher etc their not cheap. Good luck.

[WI_Jeff]

My son and I were talking to a guy that was telling us how “he” rebuilt a 65 ford mustang. He has all the resources to get (and has got) every tool imaginable. But still, he took the engine to a mechanic and had it rebuilt. The transmission was an aftermarket crate item. He took the car to the body shop, had the body lifted from the frame and had them sandblast and seal the frame. Then he had them do the body work and paint. He then took everything to another shop and had it put it all together. Yea, “he” rebuilt it.

I found something that I built and use. It may not be for everybody. I am not the type to let someone else do things that I can do. I don’t have the resources to go buy expensive tools. I have the know how to build the things I need. When “I” build it “I” do it. I thought I would share this metal brake with you so if anyone wanted to try it they could. I built it heavier than the original plans and it does what I need it to do.

I am sure that some people here are not worried about the extra $150 it costs to buy a brake at harbor freight. I am sure that some people have most of their work done by someone else and claim it as their own. I am also sure that some people cut down ideas without trying them.

I am all for constructive criticism. If you can improve the plans share it with us. But, don’t knock down an idea without trying it.

I’ll get off my soapbox now.

1967 C50 Chevy Bus
1974 Cadillac Hearse
1989 Chevy s-10 Baja

[robin58]

Thanks for the link. I always try to use homebuilt jigs and tools as much as I can. Only one problem though: now I've browsed through the subject over at ch601 I can see myself trying to tackle building a plane

[dfwright]

I appreciate the link. I enjoy reading about things like this even if I have no intention of building one for myself. You never know what clever things you might see in this solution that might work for some other problem you have.