Frame

[hotrod0688]

What is the best way to paint a frame so it will hold up and not chip off. And what would be the best paint and non expensive? Thanks

[jbristo67]

Powder coating is the best way to go

[Longhorn Man]

POR is a bit better than powedercoat as far as chip resistance and when it comes to rust prevention, POR hands down.


Neither powercoating nor POR is cheap though.

[hotrod0688]

I went to my local paint store today and they had a product called chassis saver that you could either brush or spray on. Has anyone heard of it?

[mvfd70]

Anyone ever try KBS rust seal? Says on they're website its better than POR 15. Of course that is THEIR website. I'm just wondering if its any good

[Big J'72 GMC]

I got POR15 on my frame and I love it, its a great product, would recomend it to anyone doin a restoration

[Longhorn Man]

i agree 100% J

[chas350]

POR 15 over blasted metal is hard to beat.

[jbristo67]

WOW I feel behind what is POR

[Longhorn Man]

you could try www.por15.com
or a google on it... http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...POR+15&aqi=g10

[mclairmo]

I had mine powdercoated 15 years ago and not one chip.

[sbrad701]

Can anyone give a round about figure on how much POR it would take to do a SWB frame, front and rear suspension including rear end?

[19stepSide72]

doing this right now...I have used almost 3/4 of a gallon so far and always seems to be more that you want to spray...I say about a gallon, to be safe and to have some left over. I also put three to four coats on too. Rob

[chas350]

Originally Posted by sbrad701

Can anyone give a round about figure on how much POR it would take to do a SWB frame, front and rear suspension including rear end?

It would probably depend on whether you spray or brush, you lose product when spraying. I think you may be able to get by with a gallon or so if you brush it on, but I would buy it in small containers unless you plan on having a commercial blaster do the prep and paint it all immediately as it will harden in an opened container if used a bit at a time. Although I have read it can be refrigerated to reduce this.

[Longhorn Man]

Originally Posted by mclairmo

I had mine powdercoated 15 years ago and not one chip.

how many miles have you driven it?
What kind of driving has it gotten?

Look on the rear half of the frame on any big rig. If the truck is over 2 years old, you'll see much of the powder is missing, replaced with a thick layer of rust.
Powdercoat is great stuff, but I wouldn't do the frame of anything that is intended for normal street use.

with a brush, I would say a lot less than a gallon. I did everything from the cab to the end of the frame on my longhorn... springs, frame, and big ass eaton rear end with about a quart.
Before;


spent about an hr with the scraper getting the chunks of crap and grease off... then an hr or so with the steam cleaner, let it dry, and went to town painting my arms black with POR...

After;

this was done in march of 06 if memory serves, and it still looks awesome.

[mvfd70]

Well the big brown delivery wagon just stopped by today and brought me a present. KBS frame coater kit. Reviews I've ready say people like it better than POR. I've never used either before so I thought I'd give it a try. $55 plus shipping and their customer service says it will do the whole chassis of my shortbed.

[72BlckButy]

Keep us posted on how the frame turns out. I see a FAQ coming soon.

Take plenty of pictures and walk us through the process.

[VanceH]

I just did the front of my frame with PMI and i am very pleased!!!

[dfwright]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

spent about an hr with the scraper getting the chunks of crap and grease off... then an hr or so with the steam cleaner, let it dry, and went to town painting my arms black with POR...

What did you do to get all the grease and tar off the differential and axles? Did you rent the steamer? Do you mind sharing the details of the steamer type/model, and how you used it?

Thanks!

[dimkapdx]

POR15 is awesome!

Also, Sherwin Williams has a paint called Machine Enamel and is $15 a gallon. After having my frame (of another project) blasted, I sprayed it and it has held up amazingly well over the last four years. Mind you, it probably isn't nearly as tough as POR15, but significantly cheaper.

Also, I believe POR15 should be applied to rough surfaces for good bonding, whereas the machine enamel should most likely be applied to a more smooth surface.

[Longhorn Man]

Originally Posted by dfwright

What did you do to get all the grease and tar off the differential and axles? Did you rent the steamer? Do you mind sharing the details of the steamer type/model, and how you used it?

Thanks!

like I said, I scraped off the built up areas, then hit it with the steam cleaner. It's a 40+ year old unit at work, no friggen clue what make/model, all the sheet metal is rusted away. The steam takes care of the oil and grease, no real help needed if the water is hot enough.

nothing special on how to use it, point the wand and pull the trigger. Once it's oil/grease free... move on to the next area.

[rmrtndl]

I used POR on my frame. If I had to do it over again I would probably use Eastwood's Chassis Black. Just a personal preference. I have not had a problem with either product.

I like the look of the Eastwood paint better because it is not as glossy. I think it cost less also. The Eastwood paint is probably not as durable as the POR (or powder coating) but then the environment is not really extreme here in North Alabama.

I blasted my frame, applied Metal Prep, and then POR-15 using a foam brush over clean metal. A gentleman nearby had done the same and the results are incredible though using a brush was rather time consuming. And you absolutely MUST wear a minimum of a mask with a cartridge filter or you will get the worst headache of your life from the fumes. Warning: If you do use POR-15, do not leave it out in the sun for an extended period of time. The color will fade and become chalky. Shouldn't be a problem once you have the body back on the frame though.

I have painted quite a few pieces (diff, springs, spindles, trans x-member, brackets, etc) with Eastwood's Chassis Black. They have all turned out very nicely. I have been using a detail gun from HF that was only $10. It always provides a nice finish. Cleanup is much easier also.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

[dfwright]

Originally Posted by rmrtndl

I like the look of the Eastwood paint better because it is not as glossy.

I noticed that POR has a semi-gloss version in black. I wonder if that would look better?

Also, could someone comment on the merits of spraying versus using a brush or sponge brush? I have read on here that you need to have excellent breathing protection to spray POR-15, like a fresh-air system because the fumes are so bad. Does brushing lose you anything other than looks?

[Longhorn Man]

if you brush it properly then you won't even lose the looks.
The only real advatage to spraying it, is time saved.

[dfwright]

Thanks for all the great advice! Hotrod, I am sorry about hogging your thread...