Fuel Pressure Regulator Help Needed

[Restrorob]

Hey guy's,

Figured this would be the best place to ask.....

Just to get you up to speed;

Got this 502 in my 97, Back in 97 when the speed shop installed the engine for the P.O. they removed the in-tank pump. They removed the pump from the plastic housing and put rubber fuel hose from the top piece to the bottom piece so the filter sock is still functional.



They mounted a Holley fuel pump on the frame rail next to the tank and fed it to a Mr Gasket cheep-o regulator dropping pressure to 6 lbs which is max for the sorry Demon carb., Since this monkey rig the truck will run out of fuel with approximately 10 gals. still in the tank. In other words the pump will not run the tank empty.

I had the Holley pump start leaking last month and went to NAPA and picked up a 6 to 12lb. in-line pump leaving the regulator in place, It worked fine for about 60 miles then started sucking air someplace (pumps very little fuel @ over 1/2 tank).

I'm tired of screwin around with this fuel system......

I don't race or beat on the truck just drive it to shows...... I want to install a new stock 4.3 pump/sending unit assembly in the tank so it will suck it dry.

The stock pump puts out 58-64 psi so I will still need a pressure regulator but I don't want to choke a $300+ pump down and possibly burn it up.....

I looked around at Summit and Jegs for regulators.

Questions;

What's the difference in a "bypass" regulator and a "return" regulator ?

Which regulator would be a better choice for the application I want to perform ?

Sorry for the long read, Just wanted to make understood my delima......

Any help would be appreciated !

[Super73]

A return regulator requires a return line back to the tank. A bypass typically has a bleed off and is in the tank.

It's been a while since I had a basket set up, but if memory serves, the pumpm sits in the basket and pick fuel up from there then feeds it up and out to the fitting on top. What about getting a basket and modifying it running a tube in to the basket and using a inline style pump with a regulator near it.

[red caddy]

If you want to run the stock (in tank) pump, you can use the stock (5/16" ?)supply line and run a 3/8ths" return line back to the tank. Get a billet style aluminum fuel filter holder (summit/jegs, speedway) splice it in the return line down stream of a "T" fitting feeding the carb. Supply line into bottom leg of the "T", 90 deg. leg to carb, (good place to mount a pressure guage) return line out the top end of the "T", thru the fuel filter holder and back to tank.

Remove the filter from the holder and fabricate a metal or plastic plug with the same dimentions as the filter, drill a hole thru it lengthwise,(start with ~ 3/32nds" drill) By changing the size of the hole in the "Pill" you can regulate the pressure availible at the carb inlet and still have full line flow availible to the float valves. The constantly flowing fuel will cool the pump adequately and you can easily add a hidden inline switch to the pump as an anti theft measure. (I promise not to laugh at you when you forget to turn the pump on and the truck dies in traffic, BTDT.)

When you are first setting the fuel pressure, don't hook the line to the carb. (you can screw the guage directly into the tee) You don't want to fill the engine with fuel. (don't ask) It will take several tries to get the pressure setting you want. Run the pump, check pressure, stop pump, remove , drill, replace the "pill", run the pump, check the pressure, etc.. RED