Body bolt restoration? - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

hemihead · 09-12-2009, 11:44 AM

Well just placed my order for the oxide kit, the standard kit should leave a bit of a oil/shiney finish which should look good withthe paint color.

I have access to a bead blaster so I guess I have some work ahead of me while waiting for the kit.

**leddzepp** · 09-12-2009, 12:35 PM

Yup, you have to rinse off the residue very well. Then paint and go.

greasemonkey · 09-12-2009, 01:48 PM

Phosphoric acid (Ospho) works great too. My old Trooper has all metric hardware, and when I did a frame-off on it I had a hard time finding new bolts. Just submerge the rusted hardware in the acid and check it occasionally. When the rust is gone, rinse off and paint. Rustoleum Professional worked well for me, it didn't chip off even under pressure from wrenches or ratchets.

**Thealien** · 09-12-2009, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greasemonkey

Phosphoric acid (Ospho) works great too. My old Trooper has all metric hardware, and when I did a frame-off on it I had a hard time finding new bolts. Just submerge the rusted hardware in the acid and check it occasionally. When the rust is gone, rinse off and paint. Rustoleum Professional worked well for me, it didn't chip off even under pressure from wrenches or ratchets.

I think it is also called or there is a similar product called naval Jelly, basically the same I think. I have some on the shelf downstairs. I'll check next time I go.

greasemonkey · 09-12-2009, 09:05 PM

You're right, the "active ingredient" in naval jelly is phosphoric acid. I like the liquid form better for parts I can submerge. Home Depot even carries it, people use it to etch metal and concrete.

09-12-2009, 11:44 AM	#1
hemihead Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Estevan, Sask, Canada Posts: 185	Re: Body bolt restoration? Well just placed my order for the oxide kit, the standard kit should leave a bit of a oil/shiney finish which should look good withthe paint color. I have access to a bead blaster so I guess I have some work ahead of me while waiting for the kit. __________________ 1967 SWB C-10, BBC 454, T400, 3.73 posi, 20" Coys 1972 K5 Blazer, SBC 400, 4 spd, 3.73, 6" lift, 35" mud grapplers 2011 Sierra Denali HD, 6.6 L Duramax, RBP 96R rims, leveled and Nitto trail grapplers, 2009 Acura MDX

09-12-2009, 12:35 PM	#2
leddzepp Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Southern Cal Posts: 20,119	Re: Body bolt restoration? Yup, you have to rinse off the residue very well. Then paint and go. __________________ 1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man RIP FleetsidePaul

09-12-2009, 01:48 PM	#3
greasemonkey Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Pace, FL Posts: 2,155	Re: Body bolt restoration? Phosphoric acid (Ospho) works great too. My old Trooper has all metric hardware, and when I did a frame-off on it I had a hard time finding new bolts. Just submerge the rusted hardware in the acid and check it occasionally. When the rust is gone, rinse off and paint. Rustoleum Professional worked well for me, it didn't chip off even under pressure from wrenches or ratchets. __________________ 1942 Master Deluxe 1969 C/10 1985 Blazer CUCV 1987 Jimmy 2004 Tahoe 2005 Silverado 1500 2005 Silverado 3500

09-12-2009, 09:05 PM	#5
greasemonkey Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Pace, FL Posts: 2,155	Re: Body bolt restoration? You're right, the "active ingredient" in naval jelly is phosphoric acid. I like the liquid form better for parts I can submerge. Home Depot even carries it, people use it to etch metal and concrete. __________________ 1942 Master Deluxe 1969 C/10 1985 Blazer CUCV 1987 Jimmy 2004 Tahoe 2005 Silverado 1500 2005 Silverado 3500



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