Flushing Complete Brake System ? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

PHOENIX · 04-09-2003, 04:08 PM

Ok guys I have had this truck for awhile and mom my drove it before me. I do not ever remember the entire brake system being flushed (drained completely, then refilled). Everytime I have done the brakes I bleed the system. The fluid that comes out is always clean (well pretty damn clean atleast). And I run probly almost enough through the system, so that clean (new) fluid is being bled by the time Im done.

I plan to replace the rubber lines at each wheel. I would like to go with a great quality line, rubber or braid steel (I would prefer braided). What do you guys recommend for this, what brand, cost would help me decide too.

Im also going to replace the master cylinder.
I will bleed the mc the proper way.

While I have all these components off I would like to flush the lines very well. How should I go about doing this? I want to make sure I get the insides of these lines super clean. I want to get out any foreign objects that may have worked their way in there over the years. Any ideas, tips, or what to look for would be helpful. Would blowing compressed air through the system help or hurt it? I have a compressor and all the tools (air and hand) I should need (or can get access to).

Thanks in advance.

Tom · 04-09-2003, 04:18 PM

Eddie, when I was messing with my brakes, I first bleed about 2 can of fluid threw the system till it was clear and new. Then I replaced the master cylender, again using new fluid. Finally I bleed the system again. By this time, there was no old fluid left. I also replaced both front brake lines with stock replacments.

PHOENIX · 04-09-2003, 04:26 PM

How much did the stock replacements cost you?

87 STEPPER · 04-09-2003, 04:26 PM

Eddie,

DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR ON YOUR BRAKE SYSETM

You will do some serious damage to your priority valve and the caliper's and cylinder's if you do.

The best way to flush a complete brake system is with a power bleeder but you can do just as good of a job if you just drain the entire system and fill it with fresh fluid and bleed it to death.(a lot more work than pwr bleeding but same result's)

I have ss braided lines on my truck from eral's i dont remember how much i paid but i can tell you in a few day's when i get home from germany the p/n and the price.

PHOENIX · 04-09-2003, 04:28 PM

Thats why I asked about blowing the lines clean with the compressor, I didnt know if it would damage the valve.
Of course if I was going to do it that way (which I will not now

) I would have been blowing air through the lines and valve only, not into the calipers.

Tom · 04-09-2003, 04:44 PM

stock replacments are like $18 a piece. I forgot I also replaced the left caliper, that was like $20.

PHOENIX · 04-09-2003, 04:49 PM

Tom that $20 is brand new from the dealer?

Tom · 04-09-2003, 04:59 PM

hell no. thats rebuilt from checker's

PHOENIX · 04-09-2003, 05:04 PM

I thought it seemed low

Anyone ever use these:
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...86&prmenbr=361

**Captkaos** · 04-10-2003, 11:00 AM

I got my braided line from http://www.inlinetube.com They fit just like the stock lines (don't hit the caliper like other brands) I also got the rear line for it too. (not picuted)

http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/braidedline1.jpg
http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/braidedline2.jpg
http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/braidedline3.jpg

Some Wilwood calipers are not DOT approved, so verify before purchasing. If you want some aftermarket calipers, look into these:

http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/...ize%20Truck%20(2WD)&year=1973

http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/...ize%20Truck%20(2WD)&year=1973

04-09-2003, 04:08 PM	#1
PHOENIX Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Phoenix, Arizona Posts: 4,703	Flushing Complete Brake System ? Ok guys I have had this truck for awhile and mom my drove it before me. I do not ever remember the entire brake system being flushed (drained completely, then refilled). Everytime I have done the brakes I bleed the system. The fluid that comes out is always clean (well pretty damn clean atleast). And I run probly almost enough through the system, so that clean (new) fluid is being bled by the time Im done. I plan to replace the rubber lines at each wheel. I would like to go with a great quality line, rubber or braid steel (I would prefer braided). What do you guys recommend for this, what brand, cost would help me decide too. Im also going to replace the master cylinder. I will bleed the mc the proper way. While I have all these components off I would like to flush the lines very well. How should I go about doing this? I want to make sure I get the insides of these lines super clean. I want to get out any foreign objects that may have worked their way in there over the years. Any ideas, tips, or what to look for would be helpful. Would blowing compressed air through the system help or hurt it? I have a compressor and all the tools (air and hand) I should need (or can get access to). Thanks in advance. __________________ * AVOID: LOPER'S PERMORANCE / LOPERSPEED.COM OF PHOENIX, AZ & COTTMAN TRANSMISSION *

04-09-2003, 04:18 PM	#2
Tom driving is in my blood Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Mesa AZ Posts: 5,713	Eddie, when I was messing with my brakes, I first bleed about 2 can of fluid threw the system till it was clear and new. Then I replaced the master cylender, again using new fluid. Finally I bleed the system again. By this time, there was no old fluid left. I also replaced both front brake lines with stock replacments. __________________ -78 c10 short/step: 388cid, M20, 5/5 drop, lots more. Playtoy and first vehicle. -98 c1500 x-cab: 5.7L, 17" rims, 5/6 drop, flowmaster, helper bags,NBS rear disk brakes. -02 Suburban 4x4: leveled front -CBR600F4i, CBR600RR, CBR1000RR, and standup skis DISCLAIMER: I cant spell for the life of me.

04-09-2003, 04:26 PM	#3
PHOENIX Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Phoenix, Arizona Posts: 4,703	How much did the stock replacements cost you? __________________ * AVOID: LOPER'S PERMORANCE / LOPERSPEED.COM OF PHOENIX, AZ & COTTMAN TRANSMISSION *

04-09-2003, 04:26 PM	#4
87 STEPPER STILL PLAYS WITH TRUX Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Melbourne, Fla. Posts: 2,764	Eddie, DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR ON YOUR BRAKE SYSETM You will do some serious damage to your priority valve and the caliper's and cylinder's if you do. The best way to flush a complete brake system is with a power bleeder but you can do just as good of a job if you just drain the entire system and fill it with fresh fluid and bleed it to death.(a lot more work than pwr bleeding but same result's) I have ss braided lines on my truck from eral's i dont remember how much i paid but i can tell you in a few day's when i get home from germany the p/n and the price. __________________ ~~Bruce~~ MY 87 STEPPER MY 99 2D/WD TAHOE Last edited by 87 STEPPER; 04-09-2003 at 04:33 PM.

04-09-2003, 04:28 PM	#5
PHOENIX Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Phoenix, Arizona Posts: 4,703	Thats why I asked about blowing the lines clean with the compressor, I didnt know if it would damage the valve. Of course if I was going to do it that way (which I will not now ) I would have been blowing air through the lines and valve only, not into the calipers. __________________ * AVOID: LOPER'S PERMORANCE / LOPERSPEED.COM OF PHOENIX, AZ & COTTMAN TRANSMISSION *

04-09-2003, 04:44 PM	#6
Tom driving is in my blood Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Mesa AZ Posts: 5,713	stock replacments are like $18 a piece. I forgot I also replaced the left caliper, that was like $20. __________________ -78 c10 short/step: 388cid, M20, 5/5 drop, lots more. Playtoy and first vehicle. -98 c1500 x-cab: 5.7L, 17" rims, 5/6 drop, flowmaster, helper bags,NBS rear disk brakes. -02 Suburban 4x4: leveled front -CBR600F4i, CBR600RR, CBR1000RR, and standup skis DISCLAIMER: I cant spell for the life of me.

04-09-2003, 04:49 PM	#7
PHOENIX Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Phoenix, Arizona Posts: 4,703	Tom that $20 is brand new from the dealer? __________________ * AVOID: LOPER'S PERMORANCE / LOPERSPEED.COM OF PHOENIX, AZ & COTTMAN TRANSMISSION *

04-09-2003, 04:59 PM	#8
Tom driving is in my blood Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Mesa AZ Posts: 5,713	hell no. thats rebuilt from checker's __________________ -78 c10 short/step: 388cid, M20, 5/5 drop, lots more. Playtoy and first vehicle. -98 c1500 x-cab: 5.7L, 17" rims, 5/6 drop, flowmaster, helper bags,NBS rear disk brakes. -02 Suburban 4x4: leveled front -CBR600F4i, CBR600RR, CBR1000RR, and standup skis DISCLAIMER: I cant spell for the life of me.

04-09-2003, 05:04 PM	#9
PHOENIX Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Phoenix, Arizona Posts: 4,703	I thought it seemed low Anyone ever use these: http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...86&prmenbr=361 __________________ * AVOID: LOPER'S PERMORANCE / LOPERSPEED.COM OF PHOENIX, AZ & COTTMAN TRANSMISSION *

04-10-2003, 11:00 AM	#10
Captkaos www.73-87chevytrucks.com Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 6,935	I got my braided line from http://www.inlinetube.com They fit just like the stock lines (don't hit the caliper like other brands) I also got the rear line for it too. (not picuted) http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/braidedline1.jpg http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/braidedline2.jpg http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/braidedline3.jpg Some Wilwood calipers are not DOT approved, so verify before purchasing. If you want some aftermarket calipers, look into these: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/...ize%20Truck%20(2WD)&year=1973 http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/...ize%20Truck%20(2WD)&year=1973 __________________ Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com



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