moving rear panard bar to trailing arm

[Hottrucks]

ok I was woundering if I was to put a bar from the trailing arm near the shock mount and the other end mounted to the other to the X memeber near the pivot point of the other traling arm would that keep things square???
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it woud look kinda like this?? a couple of hime joints and fab up some mounts for the trailing arm and drill a hole in the X memeber

the reason I ask is I thought I saw a pic of a truc set up this way

[Hottrucks]

ok another thought would be to mount 2 bars one on each side of the carrier bearing back to the trailing arms the front mounts would have to be even with the trailing arm pivots...something like the 4 link on some GM cars

[mycool72]

I dunno about the second idea, but as for the first, why not leave it on the rear end and move it to the frame somewhere??? Too easy?

[Frizzle Fry]

The ECE Super-Trac bar runs from the PS trailing arm to the factory PB mount on the frame. Simple, effective, and a nice improvement over stock with better geometry and adjustability.

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

ok I was woundering if I was to put a bar from the trailing arm near the shock mount and the other end mounted to the other to the X memeber near the pivot point of the other traling arm would that keep things square???
____
l\ .. l
l \.. l
l....\l

it woud look kinda like this?? a couple of hime joints and fab up some mounts for the trailing arm and drill a hole in the X memeber

the reason I ask is I thought I saw a pic of a truc set up this way

The "concept" is fine, but it won't work well with the stock arm loactions. The stock arms are not parallel, they come closer together at the front crossmember. This hurts the "triangulation" of the diagonal link you are wanting to add. The set-up you saw probably had parallel links. Here is a quick drawing to illustrate the point.


The idea is that you need the diagonal link to be at a greater angle to the frame rails.

[Hottrucks]

thanx longhair at least you understand my concept........I'm just looking for some way to clean up the rear axle..panard bars don't work with bags period..well unless you can get the exact same ride height everytime....the watts link is a great item and it works at any ride height.....just looking for something else that will work??

what if you where to put bars (2) From the axle along the outside or under the frame forward?? think that would do it...of course the pivots would have to be in line with the trailing arms to stop binding??...by the looks of your drawing there would be a greater angle if the bars where straight...it woud really be useing the trailing arms as panard bars??

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

thanx longhair at least you understand my concept........I'm just looking for some way to clean up the rear axle..panard bars don't work with bags period..well unless you can get the exact same ride height everytime....the watts link is a great item and it works at any ride height.....just looking for something else that will work??

what if you where to put bars (2) From the axle along the outside or under the frame forward?? think that would do it...of course the pivots would have to be in line with the trailing arms to stop binding??...by the looks of your drawing there would be a greater angle if the bars where straight...it woud really be useing the trailing arms as panard bars??

You may not like them.
They may not work on all trucks.
But, for the non-extreme bagged truck, PHB's DO work. They don't keep the axle 100% perfectly centered throughout suspension travel but the long bars keep shift to a minimum (1/8 ~ 3/16") when set parallel @ ride height. They do allow shift from full dump to full extension on extreme lift set-ups.

The front alignment (camber) isn't constant either. It seems to be ok too as long as it's set correctly @ ride height.

[Hottrucks]

yea maybe I need to build a long Panard bar I'm running the stock one that I made longer to get me in the enter at ride height but don't realy like it any place else.. I'm planning pro street tires so I want to keep them as close to center as I can at any height expecially at dump so I don't run into inner fender bed clearance issues...

[coopdeville]

i was thinking of putting 2 bars on top like a triangulated 4 bar with stock trailing arms...think it would work?

[LONGHAIR]

Probably not, the bars are just too long to get enough angle to the frame.

[Hottrucks]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

what if you where to put bars (2) From the axle along the outside or under the frame forward?? think that would do it...of course the pivots would have to be in line with the trailing arms to stop binding??...by the looks of your drawing there would be a greater angle if the bars where straight...it woud really be useing the trailing arms as panard bars??

Originally Posted by coopdeville

i was thinking of putting 2 bars on top like a triangulated 4 bar with stock trailing arms...think it would work?

thats what I was thinking?? the side load on our trucks in pretty min. it's not like I'll be useing it for a road corse with pro streets on the back and even when I'm hauling wood ( yea I mean it is a truck and the pros are easy on the lawn..lol) the weight is low and I tend to drive with a little finess when loaded

[N2TRUX]

It's great to be free thinking, but there are an abundance of systems on the market that have been computer modeled to ensure they will work.

Your not happy with your home brewed PB as it is. I wouldn't try for another swing and a miss.

[Frizzle Fry]

The tri bar uppers with stock TAs would not work because the rear does not pivot on the TAs with it U-Bolted to them.

Long PBs work well. Or go watts or mumford if you are anti-PB.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

yea maybe I need to build a long Panard bar I'm running the stock one that I made longer to get me in the enter at ride height but don't realy like it any place else.. I'm planning pro street tires so I want to keep them as close to center as I can at any height expecially at dump so I don't run into inner fender bed clearance issues...

The big thing is to set up a long PHB parallel @ ride height so that shift is minimal during suspenion travel.

[DHPmike]

trac bar or watts link

[coopdeville]

blind man see! thanx

[Hottrucks]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

It's great to be free thinking, but there are an abundance of systems on the market that have been computer modeled to ensure they will work.

Your not happy with your home brewed PB as it is. I wouldn't try for another swing and a miss.

thanx.....it not a home brewed PB its stock lengthened 3/4" to square things up....and it works fine "at ride height"...like I said I plan on putting pro street tires ( 18x29x15) on the back and I just want to make sure when I dump with a c notch that I won't rub the inner body...now keep in mind that I'm going to keep the stock front spaceing on a Rally wheel and add 6" to the back space..with my stock rallies and 265/70's I can dump with no rubbing ...the ProStreet tires are the same height so I'm hoping that they have the same side wall profile obviously I will need wheel well work....

all that being said with a watts link I'm not sure I can mount the upper bar high enough without putting a hump in the bed (bad enough I have to tub it unlike alot of people this truck still works it's on fire wood duty now)...thats why I have been searching for another answer...

what is this MUMFORD you speak of??

so far the best answer is the long panard bar....my thoughts are to retain the stock frame mount and fab something to the back of the trailing arm inside the ][ so as not to interfer with the large amount of BS on the wheels

sound logical??

by the way thanx guys for putting up with my free thinking......even computer generated stuff is only as good as the monkeys putting info into them then there is testing we have all seen how well some of that stuff works on the newer car...lmao good thing they don't have to work on them

[Frizzle Fry]

You just described the ECE super-trac bar that I mentioned earlier.

[Hottrucks]

thanx I'll have to look it up..this week look swamped but its something I need to address with the tires...doesn't look like a big rush snow will be here very soon...yek!!

[Kontrol Phreaks]

You can run a longer panhard bar from the area where the original oner was located over to the rear side of the passengerside trailing arm as shown. This will greatly decrease the amount of side shift however you will need to keep in mind where the bar will swing in relation to the passengerside notch and frame rail.




Or you could simply install a bolt-on Watts link kit off the back of the axle tube and eliminate all the side shift for good. Then you have plenty of room for the exhaust up front and no need to replace the links unless you wanted too for performance and upgrade reasons.





Good luck with the project.

[kev2809]

not really on topic, but whos truck is that in the last pic. im interested in how they put the bags offset on the trailing arms like that..

[Kontrol Phreaks]

PM sent with info about the trucks bag location.

[Hottrucks]

I would like to see a couple more of the watts link I was under the impression that they had to be mounted above and below the frame and that one doesn't seem to be that way??

[DHPmike]

I have all kinds of info on watts if you PM me. I dont want to get busted for advertising.

You can have the bars anywhere you want as long as they are parallel to each other at some point in their travel and parallel with the axle at some point. They can be angled down from left to right as long as both bars are etc.

look at Dodge Durangos, they have one, so does a Miata, an RX7 and some explorers.

watts can be tailored to your vehicle or come as a kit you can adapt to your vehicle.

lots of possibilities

[Kontrol Phreaks]

Yes you can run a Watts link off the bottom of the differential as well, however the most common street method is behind the axle as shown above and below. Here are some additonal images of the Watts link.






Good luck with you project.