Performance brake parts? I wanna stop!

[jeffspower]

Anyone running performance pads and/ or drilled & slotted rotors on the front? I'm getting tired of so- so brakes on both my 1/2 and 3/4 ton 4x4s. they both have 33" tires. It seems like the expensive parts store pads are as hard as granite and you have to use both feet on the brake and blow your knees out just to slow down. The el cheapo pads stop with much less effort, but fade bad in high speed panic stops or when coming down a hill.

When I can afford it, I'm thinking of trying drilled & slotted rotors with EBC "yelllowstuff" pads. I don't care about dust or if I need new rotors after one set of pads. I want to STOP when I need to, not just slow down. But I don't want to spend a fortune on trick calipers & such. Neither of these trucks log many miles either- maybe 5k a year the most.

What have you found to work good?

[OldCreek]

My thoughts...

I thought the drilled and slotted rotors were to help cooling and prevent fade, especially in towing and race applications. Maybe they help clear debris. I think true stopping power is a matter of surface area, diameter of the rotors, piston number/pressure applied, amount of vacuum assist/hydro assist, quality/age of brake fluid, and even brake pad type.

In other words, I doubt switching to slotted/drilled rotors would do much. Pads...maybe so.

I've changed the vacuum hose alone and it made a dramatic difference in brake pressure needed. i.e. make sure all your stuff is in working order.

The larger the tire the more work needed to stop, also!

[Billhilly]

Well I wanted my 4000lbs of runaway GMC to stop as good as possible given its a 37 year old, 3/4 ton, solid axle, 4X4 truck so I have bought Yellowstuff pads, and cryoed stock rotors. (Well I sent my rotors off, the guy took my money and he sent my rotors back!).
No help at all in regards to before/after comparisons. Still stuck rebuilding. On a side note my lathe guy didn't want to slot my rotors for me so I settled on making sure they were round (true). Three out of the four rotors I bought needed work. Any disc runout can cause longterm headaches too.

[jeffspower]

Originally Posted by OldCreek

My thoughts...

I thought the drilled and slotted rotors were to help cooling and prevent fade, especially in towing and race applications. Maybe they help clear debris. I think true stopping power is a matter of surface area, diameter of the rotors, piston number/pressure applied, amount of vacuum assist/hydro assist, quality/age of brake fluid, and even brake pad type.

In other words, I doubt switching to slotted/drilled rotors would do much. Pads...maybe so.

I've changed the vacuum hose alone and it made a dramatic difference in brake pressure needed. i.e. make sure all your stuff is in working order.

The larger the tire the more work needed to stop, also!

I agree that the rotors might not make much difference other than reducing brake fade. I feel that everything is "up to OE" braking power on both of my trucks, but I know they could be better without spending a fortune. These years of trucks never had strong brakes when they were new. With the exception of hydraboost, what GM pickups did, or currently do? None come to mind. I could just mod in a hydraboost, but don't really want all the ugly lines. My '72 already has a tandem booster. Plenty of vac with a stock 500 Cad too.

Have you ever driven a big Mopar from the mid 70s? Most of them would throw you thru the windshield if you breathed on the brake pedal. Nothing trick on those old boats, but they had awesome strong brakes. Too strong for some people- customers would come in the shop back in the day complaining about them. I wish I brakes like them.

Originally Posted by Billhilly

Well I wanted my 4000lbs of runaway GMC to stop as good as possible given its a 37 year old, 3/4 ton, solid axle, 4X4 truck so I have bought Yellowstuff pads, and cryoed stock rotors. (Well I sent my rotors off, the guy took my money and he sent my rotors back!).
No help at all in regards to before/after comparisons. Still stuck rebuilding. On a side note my lathe guy didn't want to slot my rotors for me so I settled on making sure they were round (true). Three out of the four rotors I bought needed work. Any disc runout can cause longterm headaches too.

Dang, I would think yellow pads on rear discs would drag the tires easily. Silly question... your bleeder screw is on the bottom- did you bleed it with the caliper flipped over, as to put the bleeder at the top?

[ghettoluxury]

Originally Posted by jeffspower

Silly question... your bleeder screw is on the bottom- did you bleed it with the caliper flipped over, as to put the bleeder at the top?

I noticed this also, the R should have been a dead give away it was on the wrong side. I see you decide to use the caddy rear calipers to retain your e-brake.

[Billhilly]

Dang, I would think yellow pads on rear discs would drag the tires easily. Silly question... your bleeder screw is on the bottom- did you bleed it with the caliper flipped over, as to put the bleeder at the top?

What do you mean 'drag the tires easily'? As in too aggresive? I've got yellow pads all round, thought it was best (necessary) to have all pads the same?

I noticed this also, the R should have been a dead give away it was on the wrong side. I see you decide to use the caddy rear calipers to retain your e-brake.

Is that what that 'R' was for But in the southern hemispere everything is upside down, no wait, goes round the other way, no wait, oh never mind! I did figure it was worth it to try and 'smooth out' the e brake cable routing. We have six monthly 'safety checks' which reguire an e brake. I choose Caddy calipers, don't know how smart that was, but I'll find out!

[jeffspower]

As in skid or lock up without alot of pedal effort. Neither of mine will even start to skid a tire when braking hard in a straight line on clean dry pavement. And yes, I would assume if you have discs all- around you would want the same pads.

What size of tires are you running? Will yours skid the tires at all?

[57NAPCO]

mine won't, I also am looking for better brakes. I'm at the point of replacing the whole system

[Billhilly]

What size of tires are you running? Will yours skid the tires at all?

Going to run 33's. 255/85/16 to start with. Truck no where close to running so can't answer the skid the tyres question.

[84 400]

I have heard great things about the rear disc swap. I will say that after adding a lift (with new brake lines) and 34' swampers I have found the brakes to be a bit weak. Truck felt alot better before. Maybe more adjustment.... but hydroboost or rear disc might be in the future

[WyoRoadDog]

Depending on what you're running, SSBC makes an oversize caliper setup called Big Bite. I know they have it for the D44 front, not sure of others. Spendy though, I think it's $800 for the D44 setup.

[jeffspower]

Billhilly, I guess I didn't read your first post correctly. I seen "no help at all" and jumped the gun thinking they didn't help. Now I understand, you don't know yet!

Big DUHH on my part.



WyoRoadDog, yep both trucks have 44 fronts. One 8 lug, one 6. $800 calipers is crazy! You can try a set and let me know how good they are

[mastertruckmaster]

I put one ton brake master and booster on my half ton and it stops better than my new silverado. Easy swap and cheap too.

[ghettoluxury]

HydroBoost and 4 wheel discs Does wonders on 33's and up.

Billhilly, the caddy calipers are a great choice since you need to retain your e-brake. They will stop just as well as the front calipers do.

[cobinder]

Easiest way to get better brakes is to use "softer" pads and top of the line brake fluid, they don't last as long but are very "grippy". Slotted rotors are only for cooling and will not improve braking only cooling. Larger rotors, bigger calipers a different mc will help your braking. Rotors and pads that are designed to work together are the best combo.

[WyoRoadDog]

Originally Posted by jeffspower

WyoRoadDog, yep both trucks have 44 fronts. One 8 lug, one 6. $800 calipers is crazy! You can try a set and let me know how good they are

You may have to wait awhile, I'm planning on getting them just after I win the lottery!

[Rede]

double post please delete

[Rede]

Are the disk brake conversions for the cost?

[DirtyLarry]

Originally Posted by Rede

Are the disk brake conversions for the cost?

My question too! I am looking to ditch the rear drums on my 14 bolt full-floater and need Caddy rear calipers as I have a manual trans and need a park brake. Looks like a $500 conversion so I am curious to hear others experience with this as well to see if it is money worth spending.

[Rede]

Originally Posted by DirtyLarry

My question too! I am looking to ditch the rear drums on my 14 bolt full-floater and need Caddy rear calipers as I have a manual trans and need a park brake. Looks like a $500 conversion so I am curious to hear others experience with this as well to see if it is money worth spending.

I'm in exactly the same boat lol
Trying to weight 200/drum + shoes, or dist brake conversion... hmmm

[57NAPCO]

Originally Posted by mastertruckmaster

I put one ton brake master and booster on my half ton and it stops better than my new silverado. Easy swap and cheap too.

Is that all you changed out? I'm interested...

[1969 GMC]

depending on what size rims you are running now...there are a couple options if you want all off the shelf parts (which I think would be a plus compared to a spendy kit). i have seen people use the rotors from a P30 van, which are bigger than even stock D60 front axle rotors, along with ford super duty calipers and a custom mount. this was on a dana 60 though, not sure if it would work on a 44.

[andrewmp6]

Is there a big brake kit for a front dana 60?

[Todersauce]

Anyone know a part number or have a description of the Cadillac E brake calipers? And will these work on a 8 lug ¾ ton Eaton safely? What rotors do you use?

[Billhilly]

My (Caddy) calipers are off a 76-78 Eldorado, would work fine on your Eaton. My rotors are off a 71-78 Chevy 3/4 ton 4X4. I'm guessing but would think they would fit too. Just need brackets.
Post #1 huh. Welcome aboard!