Structures 65 Chevy C10

[structures]

I've found tons of useful information on this site from browsing the build threads. So I thought I would post my own.

This truck has been in the family since 65 (long before I was born). It is originally a 65 C10 Longbed Fleetside with a 230 straight 6 and 3 spd on the column.











In 2003 I got serious (kind of...) about restoring this truck, but I wanted it to be a frame off restoration.







By 2005 I had the body off and the Frame blasted and powder coated.










My first big purchase was a suspension rebuild kit with 2.5" drop spindles, 4" rear drop coils, disc brake conversion and a sway bar kit from Early Classic Enterprises.

[structures]

After the Frame and Suspension I moved on to the Rear Axle, which is a GM 12 bolt 8.875" ring gear. The original gears were 3.73 but a little rough after setting for 20 some years.







I had the Rear Axle cleaned, blasted and powder coated here recently. For the rebuild I bought replacement Motive gears, 3.73s, with a Motive rebuild kit and because I just couldn't resist I went with a Eaton posi.

[Rich 5150 69]

Welcome to the site, whats the rest of the plans for this build...

[structures]

I've got a few irons in the fire because I just recently purchased a 4.8 liter and 4L60e. At the same time I'm still working the rear end. Here is some pics of the engine. It's out of a wrecked 2007 Chevy Silverado with 30,000 miles.

[198plus]

Nice job, looks great !!!!!!

[structures]

I'd like the truck to look stock on the outside and new underneath. LS engine with front discs. Something a little modern with an old look.

[jgh64pkup]

cool build subscribed

[structures]

Within the last week I've been assembling the Rear Axle and Trailing Arms. I need to make a trip out to the local bolt co for the 100th time as I've been replacing all the hardware on the suspension and I always seem to forget something. Right now it's mostly just mocked in place.




New bushings for the trailing arms.










For what it's worth I also took some time to replace some lower quality hardware I bought from the local atwoods. I ran out of the good stuff during ass'y three years ago. So the bolt install on the right has been installed for three years and stored in my garage. The blue coated hardware I replaced from the left installed bolt with some more yellowed zinc hardware.

[Alan's Classic]

Welcome, you are doing a great job!!

[Captainfab]

Very nice work.....I'm looking forward to more. That is cool that this truck has been in your family since '65.

[816allen]

WOW thats gonna be one sick truck man!
I would do the same if i had the cash those 5.3 can be picked up fairly cheap and they are such a great and fast motor!
Are you gonna have a wiring harness made for you or....

[jason65]

Welcome. I think you'll like it beter over here. Good luck with your build dude.

[structures]

Guys thanks a lot for the comments. It's December so this is the month of giving and unfortunately that means I can't buy the axles and brake kit yet for the 12 bolt, but I still have a lot to work on anyway. I need to actually disassemble the front spindles, blast them and paint them. My rush to assemble the front end years back has left the calipers and spindles with a nice shade of rust.

Originally Posted by 816allen

WOW thats gonna be one sick truck man!
I would do the same if i had the cash those 5.3 can be picked up fairly cheap and they are such a great and fast motor!
Are you gonna have a wiring harness made for you or....

I bought the engine and transmission on craigslist for $2000 (man that website gets me in trouble) . I'll post pics of everything I got, but basically I picked up the engine, transmission, all accessories (including the A/C), wiring harness, throttle pedal and throttle actuator module, MAF/IAT, coolant reservoir and uhhh... well I think that's it...

So I spent some of last week also tearing thru the harness. With a heaping pile of guidance from www.lt1swap.com and some wiring diagrams from autozone I was able to get the idea of what to do. Painless performance sells a harness kit, item 60221, but my harness is in really good shape. I really like painless' fuseblock I wish I could just buy that from them. I might check and see. I was hoping to save some bucks by modding the harness myself and then justify purchasing some sort of tuning software.

[Clyde65]

Have you mocked the motor up yet? If you havent may I suggest you do this before the body is on the frame. I also suggest you look into POL for the engine mounts ( perches) and LS motor adapters. Now that you have access to the frame, you will need that when you notch the frame for the mounts. Yes the stock mounts will fit, but you will have to be VERY creative with exhaust manifolds when that time comes, if you go with the pOL items and notch the frame, it will go together like a glove and Sanderson CSLS1 headers will fit perfectly. I know all this because I am in the last parts of the swap myself.

Good luck and welcome!

Clyde65

[MacAttack]

WELCOME

Great legacy story and it looks like you're serious about this build. You'll love the Eaton posi and that's the way I went with my rear end. Looks like many generations of spiders have come and gone in those old brake assemblies.

Mac.

[DaddyMack]

Great build! Off to a good start with a great history!

[DPowers]

Welcome to the site- looks good man. Alot of useful info here.

[structures]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

Have you mocked the motor up yet? If you havent may I suggest you do this before the body is on the frame. I also suggest you look into POL for the engine mounts ( perches) and LS motor adapters. Now that you have access to the frame, you will need that when you notch the frame for the mounts. Yes the stock mounts will fit, but you will have to be VERY creative with exhaust manifolds when that time comes, if you go with the pOL items and notch the frame, it will go together like a glove and Sanderson CSLS1 headers will fit perfectly. I know all this because I am in the last parts of the swap myself.

Good luck and welcome!

Clyde65

I haven't tried to sit the engine and transmission. I was cleaning it up a little and also I have to get some fasteners to tie the engine and tranny together. I bought them separated and forgot to grab some of the hardware. I was thinking about first trying the 1/4" steel plate method I've seen posted (http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=322471&page=7). Also I was looking at Early Classics GEN III mounts. I've never heard of POL until now. Thanks! The mounts are a good price. I really don't won't to trim back the frame, but if the headers are that tight I may not have a choice.

[Clyde65]

I am not for sure on the ECE mounts but I think they both need the frame trimmed. If you look at where the motor perches bolt to the frame, you will need to trim about an inch off the top toward the bolt holes. The 67-72 have been done this way from the factory since they could house a big block ( 67's might not be?). SO it wont be a real big deal, I cut mine using a sawzall and a few real tough metal blades. Do it while you dont have anything in the bay though, I ended up pulling my motor and trans about 4 times, what a beating.

I encourage you to stay with it, do a little each day or weekend, when you have the time. I promise when you are done, you will be SOOOOOO glad you did.

look at the attachments I have here, look at your frame and then look at these, you will see what I mean.

[structures]

Did a little work on the 65. More running around town than working but I did get the rear springs and shocks mounted. The shocks were missing lower bushings which was strange. I was able to pick up replacements locally. I also mounted the trailing arms










Since this truck was originally a 3 speed I had to remove that cross member as well as the E-brake cross member to allow for the 5.3/4l65e. I have a donor 65 with 283/powerglide combo which I'm in the process of robbing that tranny cross member from.








I went ahead and ordered the rear brake upgrade kit as well as axles from ECE. I'll be eager to get that in!

[TR65]

Hey Structures,

Really nice job!!

I'm putting a LS motor in my 65 also. I can't tell from the pictures whether you got the factory motor mounts with your motor. If so, you can fab up some brackets to use them and mount the engine directly to the cross member. The mounts are much much better than the old type Chevy mounts. And using the LS mounts avoids interference with the exhaust manifolds, AC compressor etc. Here is how I did it and there is a link in this post to the way Tom Lamb did it.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=364782

By the way. The cast iron manifolds from the SSR or Trailblazer SS will clear the frame of the 65, no frame mods required. The late model LS cast iron maniflods are hard for the header guys to beat in terms of HP and Torque.

Good luck and keep the pictures coming.

TR

[structures]

Well I was thinking about first trying the adaptor plates and trailblazer SS manifolds. I didn't get the motor mounts for this engine or I would have tried to use them. So you're saying the trailblazer SS manifolds are better than a set of shorty headers?

[TR65]

I'm just saying that the trailblazer SS / SSR manifolds fit without frame mods. The articles I have read about comparing the cast LS manifolds with headers indicate that the gains from headers are marginal if any. The LS cast manifolds are well designed and matched to the engine.

I tried the CPP style conversion mounts and they interferred with the manifolds, the AC compressor, etc. so I abandoned that and went with the LS stock mounts.

Just a note. I mounted my engine 1" forward of the original small block location for rear clearance, and about 5/8" higher for cross member clearance, and 4 degrees tilted down in the back (like stock).

TR

[structures]

Got some of the brake parts in tonight. First things first... paint.

[bad6772]

looks awesome..Great work......Keep it up and good luck