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10-02-2009, 03:20 PM | #51 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
I also used a 69 Corvette M/C with my rear disc setup. Works great. Cost around $35.
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10-03-2009, 06:58 AM | #52 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
Thanks Chief, any help is greatly appreciated.
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Father and son built. Driven daily since 2012. 283, 3 speed. Mostly original. '81 PS and disk front. Fuel tank relocate. Maintenance, repairs and upgrades on his dime now. http://zacks64longfleet.shutterfly.com/ Higher res. photos in my gallery. |
10-03-2009, 07:22 AM | #53 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
Here is some info on the MC I think I will use. I think the Pic is at the bottom. The my MC came from orielly;s part number 10-1339 the pic on their site shows a different MC
Fenco Reman / Master Cylinder (Brake System) For your 1967 Chevrolet Truck C10 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 4.6L 2BL OHV 8cyl PREVIOUS Price:$14.99 Core*Core value is the used part that manufacturers use for rebuilding. AutoZone charges the core value to customers because manufacturers include it in their prices. When you return your core to AutoZone, we'll refund your core charge.: $9.00 Total:$23.99AVAILABILITY: SEND TO STORE LISTAVAILABLENormally stocked at your local store. SHIP TO HOMEAVAILABLEShips within 2 business days. Part Number: M1505 Weight: 8.75 lbs Warranty: LLT Application: With front drum brakes Notes: - installer warning - unit must be bench bled. If you experience any installation problems, call toll free: USA 1-866-787-5132 can 1-800-293-0760 Reservoir: With Reservoir - Built In Bore Size: 1" Cylinder Honing: Never Honed New Sleeved Bore: Yes Special Installation Notes Included: Yes Primary - Hole Size and Location: 9/16"-18 Fender Side Secondary - Hole Size and Location: 1/2"-20 Fender Side Features & Benefits: 100% : New Sleeved Bore, New Epdm (Ethylene Propylene Diene M) Seals & O Rings, Computerized Multi Stage Tested. Push Rods On All Manual Applications, Includes Part Specific Bleeder Kit
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Father and son built. Driven daily since 2012. 283, 3 speed. Mostly original. '81 PS and disk front. Fuel tank relocate. Maintenance, repairs and upgrades on his dime now. http://zacks64longfleet.shutterfly.com/ Higher res. photos in my gallery. |
12-23-2009, 09:07 PM | #54 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
dug this one up cause I really want to do this. Question though, can I just buy new pre-bent lines from the Truck shop and make it a full on bolt in affair? I dont mind spending the extra cash since I dont have the time/space to fab up the lines myself.
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12-24-2009, 09:11 AM | #55 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
QUOTE: The push rod was also modified for this MC.
Any more info on this. I feel the need for a dual MC for safety reasons. Nice work and write up.
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1999 Silverado DD 1966 Panel Truck 2003 Harley Road Glide 1967 Schwinn Tandem Single Speed |
12-24-2009, 02:41 PM | #56 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
the lines are real easy to bend, in fact, if just keeping the 4 whl drums, you don't even need to cut and flare the lines if you buy the right lengths, see my posts on this and it probably gives you the lengths I used. When doing discs up front, you will need a lot more plumbing for the prop valve and all.
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Chuck in Ohio *1962 GMC 1000 Panel Truck - 305D/Saginaw 4sp soon: 351C V6 + AX15 5sp OD trans, & 75-87/91 disc brake front end *1988 Suzuki Samurai 4x4 project, VW 1.9L mTDI, Toyota R151F transmission & Toyota full floater axles, LWB body tub stretch project *Many 1977-1979 Suzuki GS motorcycles, Kawasaki KDX220R, '77 Suzuki PE250, etc |
01-04-2010, 05:43 PM | #57 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
QUOTE: The push rod was also modified for this MC.
Any more info on this. I feel the need for a dual MC for safety reasons. i have a 61 c10 and i think i have every thing i need to complete the master swap. im useing a master i bought from autozone for $15 bucks it is from a 67 c10. just have a few questions first thanks 1. do i have to drill new holes for this master 2. what mods are needed for push rod(pics please) 3.what is everyone useing for brake lines (they said n/a at auto zone) mine are a little soft. thanks for all the info
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61 step/long bed SBW(SOLD) NEED A NEW PROJECT Last edited by rain_man; 01-04-2010 at 05:43 PM. |
01-05-2010, 09:38 AM | #58 | |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
Quote:
2) The push rod had to be extended. I sold my black truck, and for some reason never got pics of the rod. I cut the stock rod in half, then welded more rod between the two. I still retained the adjuster part of the rod. Once the master is installed, and the pedal is in it's released position (check your bump stops too) you want the tip of the rod to be about 1/16" to 1/8" max away from the piston. 3) I purchased some straight pieces of line from my local fittings store (or a speed shop).....it came with ends. Bent them and double flared them myself.
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John What the Heck is that ?? CURRENT BUILDS: 62 BurbMaster Other Builds: My '63 C-10,LWB,CC,BBW '06 HD StrAight Axle Swap Father/Son '67 C-20, LQ9,4L80,Bagged,8-Lugger !!Good Friend Richard's Build AMERICAN CUSTOMS & CLASSICS (831) 630-1965 www.ACCHOLLISTER.com ACC on FACEBOOK "Rest in Peace, Mom & Dad ... I will see you again someday!" Last edited by ChiefRocka; 01-05-2010 at 09:39 AM. |
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01-06-2010, 01:00 AM | #59 | |
60-66 Nut
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
On the '60-'62's you will need to drill holes to bolt up a '63 and newer master cylinder
Quote:
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Power Steering Box Adapter Plates For Sale HERE Power Brake Booster Adapter Brackets For Sale '63-'66 HERE and '67-'72 HERE and '60-'62 HERE and "60-'62 with clutch HERE Rear Disc Brake Brackets For Sale. Impala SS calipers HERE Camaro Calipers HERE D52 Calipers HERE 6 Lug HERE Hydroboost Mounting Plates HERE |
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01-07-2010, 07:55 AM | #60 | |
Hollister, CA.
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
Quote:
Keep assuming people have the 63 and up...
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John What the Heck is that ?? CURRENT BUILDS: 62 BurbMaster Other Builds: My '63 C-10,LWB,CC,BBW '06 HD StrAight Axle Swap Father/Son '67 C-20, LQ9,4L80,Bagged,8-Lugger !!Good Friend Richard's Build AMERICAN CUSTOMS & CLASSICS (831) 630-1965 www.ACCHOLLISTER.com ACC on FACEBOOK "Rest in Peace, Mom & Dad ... I will see you again someday!" |
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03-06-2010, 06:35 PM | #61 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
Has anyone done this, and have a parts list, and what modification the push rod needs (adjusted or welded) and length for the brake line?
If going from the 63 MC to a 67 C10 MC the bore diam is smaller 1-1/8 vs 1" from the numbers on line. IIRC this would require more peddle travel fro the same brake force? David |
03-10-2010, 07:33 PM | #62 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
John
Got my 1964 with a new master cylinder in the plastic bag on the seat not installed looks like he one you used.Is there a way to tell difference in drum/drum master and a drum/disk master? Is there a proportion valve for a drum/drum set up? Thank you Jim |
03-10-2010, 07:47 PM | #63 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
John
I have another question after reviewing, My old truck has the original master on and also has a power brake booster from a 84 C-10 on it. The power brakes seem to work OK but !!!?? The power brake rod was modified. All this has me confused I need your advice what direction do I go? Jim |
04-22-2011, 08:44 PM | #64 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
Don't know if it's cool to bring this back up but I'm thinking that I really want to do this when I put my truck back together in a week or two. I get the concept with blocking off the one T and the split but where I'm lost is the push rod... anybody have clever ideas on how to make a good pushrod? Would a pushrod like this work? Any thoughts on where to get the parts it does?
Thanks! Barry Last edited by firefighter736; 04-22-2011 at 08:45 PM. |
04-22-2011, 10:03 PM | #65 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
You can use your old master cylinder's push rod. If it is addjustable then addjust it out,if it is not you can have some one cut it and weld it. Or you can get an addustable one from speedway or a used one from the wreckers.
The push rod that is in the link will not work I used that type on my clutch master it had a pushrod with a threded end.
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1960 Apache long bed fleet L6 250 Clifford intake 2 bbl carb. Langdon cast headers with dual exhaust and bellflower tips. T-5 5 speed, power steering and power disc brakes. "Over, Around or through it... " |
04-22-2011, 11:30 PM | #66 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
It was very cool to bring this back up ...
Man, haven't seen this thread in YEARS !! Whats up SAL !!!!
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John What the Heck is that ?? CURRENT BUILDS: 62 BurbMaster Other Builds: My '63 C-10,LWB,CC,BBW '06 HD StrAight Axle Swap Father/Son '67 C-20, LQ9,4L80,Bagged,8-Lugger !!Good Friend Richard's Build AMERICAN CUSTOMS & CLASSICS (831) 630-1965 www.ACCHOLLISTER.com ACC on FACEBOOK "Rest in Peace, Mom & Dad ... I will see you again someday!" |
04-22-2011, 11:51 PM | #67 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
John !!! Hows life in the country ? Hope all is well
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1960 Apache long bed fleet L6 250 Clifford intake 2 bbl carb. Langdon cast headers with dual exhaust and bellflower tips. T-5 5 speed, power steering and power disc brakes. "Over, Around or through it... " |
04-23-2011, 12:34 AM | #68 |
Hollister, CA.
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
We are good .... Ive been going a serious of bad luck, but Im bouncing back slowly !!
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John What the Heck is that ?? CURRENT BUILDS: 62 BurbMaster Other Builds: My '63 C-10,LWB,CC,BBW '06 HD StrAight Axle Swap Father/Son '67 C-20, LQ9,4L80,Bagged,8-Lugger !!Good Friend Richard's Build AMERICAN CUSTOMS & CLASSICS (831) 630-1965 www.ACCHOLLISTER.com ACC on FACEBOOK "Rest in Peace, Mom & Dad ... I will see you again someday!" |
04-23-2011, 09:34 AM | #69 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
Would the pushrod from a 67-70 non-power truck work for those who don't have an adjustable one? Just a thought...
Posted via Mobile Device
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_____________________________________________ Ray All my life, I've been told I'm a "Bad Influence" |
04-23-2011, 10:54 AM | #70 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
I ran across and old post a while back in the 67-72 section, this might help as well ...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=456859
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`64 C10 vortec 350/350/373 posi `69 RS/SS 350/350/308 `37 Ford 406/350/324 traclock `68 Dart 370/904/323 suregrip |
04-23-2011, 12:20 PM | #71 | |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
Quote:
Back to the original post: my oe push rod was about 1/4 to short when fully addjusted due to the fact that I used an adapter for the master cylinder as a 60 used a 3 bolt set up and not 2. I ordered an addustable push rod from speedway it was 3/8 thred ,I used the part off of my old clutch master that attaches to the pedal, worked perfect ! Check to see if your push rod is addjustable it may work as is .
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1960 Apache long bed fleet L6 250 Clifford intake 2 bbl carb. Langdon cast headers with dual exhaust and bellflower tips. T-5 5 speed, power steering and power disc brakes. "Over, Around or through it... " Last edited by slepysal; 04-23-2011 at 12:40 PM. |
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04-23-2011, 02:23 PM | #72 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
Wonderful thread, ChiefRocka.....
As far as the tough times go.....I sure know how that works. I'll bet it gets better.....Remember... " Pain is just weakness leaving the body " We should be pretty strong when all the crap blows over. I thought I'd add a little info on my own brake upgrades. A different twist....the K-1000......4X4 mods. I swapped my stock frt. & rear diffs for late model Dana 44 & 12 bolt corp. respectively.... Because I wanted to add the Hydro-Boost set-up eventually, I used the down-time to take care of it all at once. With the new disc brakes and larger rear wheel cyl.s, I thought it wise to add the brake proportioning valve along with new brake lines. I didn't do near as good a job with the camera as you did, but I did take a few. I hid the new valve inside the frame-rail just under the driver-side firewall, and split the lines from there in the same order as you explained. I also took the slide-on spring style tubing shield what-ya-call-its off of the doner 1-ton and used them coming off the master cyl and again in high abrasion or vibration areas like across the cross member, near the rear wheel cyls, etc. I slid them onto the line after the bend, before the fitting and flare work. Here's the few pic's that show a little of what I did. I could take a pic of the proportioning valve if anyone wants to see it. As far as the twin master cylinder set-up that's stock for the '63....the clutch MC sure is a different story. More on that if you're interested on my build thread..."Rockdrillers '63 K1000". After reviewing the photos, I can't say that I showed you much. I'll take a few good shots of my work and post them a bit later, as I'm sure this thread will circulate around for some time, being the best reference for brake-line work that I've seen so far Nice job, Chief.
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Les Hunter '59 3803 someday to be 3853 '63 GMC K1000...351E, TH400 Daily '66 GMC 4000...351C, 5&2 |
04-29-2011, 09:31 PM | #73 | |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
Quote:
Happy to show my lack of 67-72 knowledge in order to find an answer! thanks. jocko Last edited by jocko; 04-29-2011 at 09:33 PM. |
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04-29-2011, 09:41 PM | #74 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
Disc/drum master has one bowl smaller than the other. Disc/disc and drum/drum both bowls are the same size.
And no disc brakes til '71 Posted via Mobile Device
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_____________________________________________ Ray All my life, I've been told I'm a "Bad Influence" Last edited by Str8axle; 04-29-2011 at 09:45 PM. |
04-29-2011, 10:41 PM | #75 |
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
Awesome! Thanks Str8!
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