Emerg brakes & brake locks

[fun in dirt]

We were seriously hijacking another thread so...

The question always comes up about the e-brake when change a 14 bolt over to disc.
Yeah if you can find the Cadillac calipers that'll work (some say not real good though). Anyway, I was planning on installing some type of manually operated line lock to hold the brakes. Yes I know this is not supposed to be used for long periods of time because WHAT IF it leaks down?...Whatever, if I'm out of the truck that long I'll throw a block behind the tires.

So "Big Port Jimmy 6" suggested a Mico brake lock http://www.mico.com/products/displaysubinfo.php?id=37 They do have some cool looking stuff & I particularly like the lever lock style. $275 not a bad price considering it also has a built in low pressure switch & such.
But I'm doing a budget build here & like to know my options and what COULD work with less money.
All to say, I was originally thinking about using a hydraulic ball valve in line to do the same thing. However I noticed on Mico's sight that they have different options if it's for hydraulic or brake fluid...why does this matter? Is there a difference as to how the fluids effects orings, packing, etc?
Also ball valves have all different pressure ratings from 500 to 10,000+ psi...What is the pressure in a brake line?

[72longbed]

DANGER!! DANGER!! ... someone using the word "Whatever" in the same discussion as 'Brakes'. lol!!

I've had the Cadillac calipers on my 14 bolt disks ... now have the mid-70's front calipers on the rear and like them better.

If I were you ... for the same money you can buy a really good (as in 'SAFE') Parking Brake setup that works on your driveshaft. It can attach either up at the transfer case output shaft or at the other end (rear diff yoke).

These are a positive mechanical brake that will not slip (when installed correctly) when your truck is at a 40 degree angle up or down a hill. No brake fluid involved.

... just my .02

72longbed

[Sub-versive]

I wouldn't use a line lock personally. I often would use a company bucket truck that had them, I ALWAYS chocked the wheels. The big problem I had with them was they often wouldn't release when you flipped the lever, despite numerous shop visits.
I plan on using a driveshaft/transfer case style mechanical e-brake next go around.

[eric67m]

Here is an option that I found at one time. Hydraulic, mounts in line, the main problem that I dont like is having to run brake lines into the cab and back out. Less expensive than a lever or a relay activated line lock.

http://secure.chassisshop.com/partdetail/875/

[rcrahn]

I have a 14 bolt not using the Cadillac calipers so I am looking for a solution to this problem as well. I checked with a couple of places (wagons@einstyn.com and tsmmfg.com) about a pinion mounted emergency brake but the feedback was no, it has not been done.
Not sure where to go from here?

[eric67m]

Instead of a pinion mount I have also seen transfercase mounted brakes. Might not always work offroad if a wheel is off the ground and you have an open differential, But most of the time it would.

I believe TSM or high angle drivelines has them for a fixed yoke np205.

[Burt4x4]

I have been running the Mico Lever lock for hmmmm over 10yrs now. I love having the ablitly to lock up the front calipers. Works especially well on hill climbs if I have to stop & start again. I have SM465 tranny so one foot on the clutch other on the trottle and as I let the clutch out I move the lever at the same speed = no roll back
Hydrolic line locks are not intended to be used for long periods of time, over night. The calipers may fade or loose line pressure just sitting, not to mention your calipers may ware pre-mature, seals..
I did test this theory by parking in the driveway with slight incline over night. I placed 4x4 blocks about 1" away from the tires just incase. The next day my rig did not move and when I release the line lock my rig rolled back to the 4x4s. No line fade.
I only use it as a parking break for short amount of time only. It's main funcltion is for wheelin!
I have had Zero leaks and Zero issues with it over the years and plumbing the lines was a peice of cake. I never did hook up the light/buzzer wires that will warn you if pressure is lost..never felt the need so.



I tapped into the P-valve to the Line-lock then back up to the front caliper line.
For a mecanical line lock this one works great! Billit Alumn too

[cobinder]

I have the caddy calipers on my 14b and they work great. The piston on the gm fronts are 3" the caddy's are 2'3/8". They both use the same pads.

In theory if you have the same calipers in all four corners either you set the proportioning valve to work best for the front or the rear, it can't do both.

70% of the stopping force is in the front brakes. If your front brakes are working strong then the rears using the same calipers will be locking up and working too hard when you stop.

For a proper system the rear brakes need to be somewhat less powerful then the fronts.

Two key additional parts of the system are a four disc MC and an adjustable proportioning valve. Without these two components you have reengineered your braking system and now you have no way to adjust it.

FYI I swapped my calipers so they are still up above the axle but now they are in front of the axle. This allowed me to modify the e-brake arms so the e brake cable runs up closer to the bottom of the leaf springs. Much less chance of getting them caught on underbrush when off roading.

[rcrahn]

Appreciate the comments and ideas expressed. My truck started out a 2WD C20. I exchanged the HO72 factory rear end for a 14 bolt I purchased for $100. It has 3.73 posi gearing and has been completely rebuilt including an upgrade to disc brakes. Prefer not to use the caddy calipers. Still open to other ideas and input.....

[fun in dirt]

Originally Posted by 72longbed

DANGER!! DANGER!! ... someone using the word "Whatever" in the same discussion as 'Brakes'. lol!! 72longbed

Yeah I'm a woman so can get alway with using that...sometimes!

Originally Posted by Sub-versive

The big problem I had with them was they often wouldn't release when you flipped the lever, despite numerous shop visits.
I plan on using a driveshaft/transfer case style mechanical e-brake next go around.

No release would be no good; first time I've heard of that being a problem.
Got a link to a dealer or some price$ on the driveshaft style brake? I thought they were really expensive.

BURT4x4 - thanks for the 'real experience' info, that's what I'm after. Not sure I understand where you tapped into the p-valve though

[Burt4x4]

No problem, in that last pic you can see the line going from the front bottom of the Pvalve into the firewall, the return line is right there too and taps into the line to the front calipers that use to go to the pvalve.
good luck!

[72longbed]

fun in dirt - you can get the mechanical style that works off your transfer case output shaft for around $300.00, all said and done. Whoever told (rcrahn) that "it has never been done" ... is full of 'whatever'!!

There are plenty of 67-72 pickups and Blazers with the driveline 'Parking Brake'. They are not sold or marketed as "Emergency Brakes" and the companies that sell the mechanical driveline PARKING brakes will tell you so. In PA, the mechanical driveline Parking Brake WILL pass State Inspection and qualify as a Parking Brake but the line lock type WILL NOT. Check with your state to see what their regulations are.

As far as "real life experience" goes ... a big ole' oak tree doesn't care if you are male or female when your brakes fail because you screwed with the fluid system, and it stops you and your truck 'on a dime'! lol!!

The "budget" way, when it comes to braking systems, could end up costing you your life. Be careful.