Left for dead: 72 2wd blazer build

[1956cameo]

I got more progress done on the blazer this week. I was hoping to get alot knocked out but now I am working in areas that are very rusty and in cramped areas. I only got about a third of what I thought I would done; oh well at least I made some progress. Of course I thought the only patch panels that I had left to buy was the drivers side rocker box, but I have now discovered I also need to buy a few obscure blazer only panels that should help to take another couple of hundred bucks out of the blazer fund!


I started right where I left off with the kick panel. Since it was already cut out and ready to go in I was able to knock it out quickly. The kick panel with the patch still missing. Sorry for the blurry pic.



A view of the kick panel patch tacked in with the still missing door pillar patch.



Interior shot of the repaired outer floor and kick panel. (Note still some rot in the toe board that will be repaired)



After getting the kick panel into place I went ahead and attatched the lower door pillar patch. Since I had already fit it the last time I was out this task also went quickly. I still have the front two bolt holes to drill, but will do that when I take the last of the rocker box off.

[1956cameo]

The next area I wanted to focus on was the rear door / rocker box area. This is looking like it will be the area where most of the metal work will be done.



I cut out part of the quarter panel section to give me access to the inner area of the door. Of course it is pretty much gone.



After I got the rotten quarter panel support out and the rotten rocker box reinforcement plate out this is what I had left to work with. I was warned by lks dcvn that the rocker box reinforcement plate was a bear to get out. Let me tell you he was not kidding!



In order to get the rocker box reinforcement plate off you have to open up the pillar area behind the door. For some reason GM designed it to where two of the bolts are completely hidden inside.

[1956cameo]

There was some rot on the vertical piece of flooring so I figured this would be the best time to patch that since everything that would be in my way is now gone.



A view of the vertical part of the floor with the rotten section removed.



Since it was flat it only took a few minutes to cut out, make a patch, and tack it in.



I know someone will say that so and so sells them for about $8 each but I could not find anyone that sells the blazer quarter panel support section that goes behind the rear door panels; so I spent a little time making one from scratch.



I had a little trial and error making it but I got it in and it appears it is going to fit just like the original piece.

[1956cameo]

I know it doesn't look like much but that is two solid days worth of work! I have ordered about $400 dollars worth of patches that I am hoping will be in by next week so I can continue making progress. I also have one more thing to show everyone.

On the 60-66 section of the forum alot of the guys were talking about making electrolysis tanks to get rust off of old parts. My dad thought he would give it a try and make an electrolysis tank of his own. He had done some hood hinges with good results so I let him do one of my rocker box end caps.

Here is the electrolysis tank. I am not completely sure how it works but it uses some sort of cleaning soda and an electrical current provided by a battery charger to draw the rust off of the part placed in it. Don't worry it does NOT electrify the water causing a shock hazard.



Here is the rocker box end cap when I took it off of the blazer.



The final product after sitting in the tank overnight. While it does not look like it was just stamped it is a whole lot better than it was and the best part I didn't have to do anything. Since this is pretty effective and cheap to do I will most likely do this to alot of my small rusty parts.



Thats it for now. Hopefully my patch panels will come in on time and I will have another update for everyone next week.

[lks dcvn]

Wow - very familiar territory -

I opted to just grind the threads down to the floor on those bolts on the torsion box/b pillar area instead of opening up that area [see pix] - really stupid design if you ask me - even if they would have welded nuts to the floor and then ran the bolts up from the bottom - it would have been better [at least from a restoration perspective].

I spent a LOT of time on my back with a 4 1/2" angle grinder and cut off wheel [I don't have my compressor hooked up yet to use a smaller cut off wheel] to get those damn bolts cleaned up so I could fit the repro piece flush to the floor.

I figured I would be the one to tell you...If the patch panels that you made were easy enough for the B Pillar Support- then I think you did OK - Wes at Classic Hearbeat makes them - but they are spendy since they are handmade. If they were $8 - I would buy a set for sure.

http://www.classicheartbeat.com/cata...ar%20Patch.htm

I still haven't decided if I will just make my own yet...

Even if the pictures don't show it - I know how much time goes into this stuff now. I think I was naive before and thought - I can knock this out pretty quick. Rust repair/replacement is a very time consuming process and I have run into several 'hurdles' [rusted bolts, extra rust, part trimming, part mockup, final trimming, tack welding, finish welding, grinding, etc.] - all this stuff adds up to long days, tired legs and aching backs.

Keep up the good work!