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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Amarillo, Tx
Posts: 267
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ls1 swap question
i currently installed a 5.3/4l60e setup in my 68 and im to the point of plumbing the fuel system. My question is there another alternative to running fuel lines besides using braided hose? I know there is fuel injection hose but would it be hold or should i even trust it running from the rear tank all the way to the front. Also i know there is a aluminum lines u can buy but im not sure the rating on them. any info would help alot btw i have the cpp rear mount tank
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#2 |
Truck and auto performance nut
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: McKinney,Texas
Posts: 3,848
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Re: ls1 swap question
you can run hard lines like stock. You can also get them in stainless. 3/8" feed line, 5/16 return if you need one.
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Kurt - '68 GMC short step - NIB '09 LY6 6.0L crate motor w/mods, NIB '12 crate 4L85e w/billet 3k stall Circle D, 3.73 posi 12 bolt, DynaTech f-swap headers, 3/4 drop, handling mods, etc. - my toy '72 Chevy LWB C-10 Highlander - 350/350 ps/pb/tilt/ac - not original but close '06 Chevy TrailBlazerSS - LS2/4L70e - little black hot rod SUV - my DD '18 Kia Sorento - wife's econo-driver '95 Chevy S10 - reg cab shortbed, LS, 4.3, auto... my '68's powertrain and chassis build -links broken A surprise phase - carb to efi -links broken |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Amarillo, Tx
Posts: 267
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Re: ls1 swap question
Who sales the stainless line?
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 159
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Re: ls1 swap question
I'm curious about the stainless hardline too...
And just wondering, why are you against the braided line?
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get it! |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Alma, Arkansas
Posts: 75
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Re: ls1 swap question
Dorman makes a barb adapter for the supply and return line of the 5.3 fuel rail. Should be able to get it at your local parts store. You can also buy high pressure rubber fuel hose for the supply and the return can be standard rubber fuel hose. I've been running mine that way for 3 years with no troubles.
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 157
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Re: ls1 swap question
I just went to the auto parts store and bought bulk brake line 3/8 and bent as i needed. Running that is real easy (own a good flare tool and cutter) and to find the connectors you need and way cheaper than the braided line.
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#7 |
Kill Bill...et
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Winchestertonfieldville, Wa
Posts: 366
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Re: ls1 swap question
Braided would look nice. Stainless would be the way to go, but it's a real bear to bend unless you have a nice tube bender. I did not so, the only stainless I went with was the return line right at the tank (behind the seat still). Works great if your not into it for looks. Just be sure you go with the EFI line...obviously.
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 68
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Re: ls1 swap question
Bad Idea on using brake line tubing for fuel lines. There's a reason why bulk fuel lines only come in 2 options, Aluminum or stainless.....RUST. Brake lines when using for brake systems are ok because it's a sealed system, for fuel though, rust can only lead to clogging. IMO, aluminum is the cheapest and easiest way to go, bends by hand and easy to flare. Stainless require a decent pipe bender that won't kink the tubing. Mentioned above is the high pressure hose. Stock fuel lines in vehicles use this in sections of the fuel lines, but i wouldn't trust a flexible hose from tank to motor due to how it can move around, and thus rub, on whatever it's nearby, and eventually rub through.
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'72 Chevy Longbed 327 w/ 3 on the Floor-soon to be DD '71 GMC Longbed (originally bought project, now parts truck for '72) '94 Camaro Z28 cam/exhaust/gears '02 Chevy Impala-DD for now -Ryan, GM Master Technician |
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#9 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 159
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Re: ls1 swap question
Quote:
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#10 |
Truck and auto performance nut
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: McKinney,Texas
Posts: 3,848
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Re: ls1 swap question
You can get S.S. fueline tube from Inline Tube, or try these guys:
stainlessFuelLines.htm
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Kurt - '68 GMC short step - NIB '09 LY6 6.0L crate motor w/mods, NIB '12 crate 4L85e w/billet 3k stall Circle D, 3.73 posi 12 bolt, DynaTech f-swap headers, 3/4 drop, handling mods, etc. - my toy '72 Chevy LWB C-10 Highlander - 350/350 ps/pb/tilt/ac - not original but close '06 Chevy TrailBlazerSS - LS2/4L70e - little black hot rod SUV - my DD '18 Kia Sorento - wife's econo-driver '95 Chevy S10 - reg cab shortbed, LS, 4.3, auto... my '68's powertrain and chassis build -links broken A surprise phase - carb to efi -links broken |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Valley Center KS
Posts: 3,525
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Re: ls1 swap question
I initially went with stainless and I couldn't get it to flare good enough to seal, so I ended up using aluminum hard line with a few short sections of braided to connect up to the fuel rail, from the tank to the regulator/filter, and then to the hard line. You need to run something flexible between the hardline to the engine to allow for engine movement.
It would have been a lot easier to just run braided hose the whole way. Doing it the way I did requires a few extra fittings that also add up. |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: The West
Posts: 767
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Re: ls1 swap question
Take a look at Cunifer fuel/brake lines from FedHill.
http://store.fedhillusa.com/ I plan on fabricating my own brake and fuel lines (for 6.0L LQ9/4L80E transplant) in my 67C20 |
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: metropolis il
Posts: 91
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Re: ls1 swap question
The last 2 swaps I have done I used dorman hard plastic line. Its the hard plastic line like found on many newer vehicles. It is very easy to work with once you get the hang of putting the fittings on, and cheap. You can buy all the plastic quick connect type fittings, you just dip the end of the hose in boiling water and push the barbed fittings on. I was skeptical at first but the only way to get the fittings back off is to cut them off. Heres pretty much all the parts
http://www.dormanproducts.com/docume...uyersGuide.pdf |
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#14 |
Truck and auto performance nut
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: McKinney,Texas
Posts: 3,848
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Re: ls1 swap question
Hadn't seen that before. I'm considering it for my build now though!
__________________
Kurt - '68 GMC short step - NIB '09 LY6 6.0L crate motor w/mods, NIB '12 crate 4L85e w/billet 3k stall Circle D, 3.73 posi 12 bolt, DynaTech f-swap headers, 3/4 drop, handling mods, etc. - my toy '72 Chevy LWB C-10 Highlander - 350/350 ps/pb/tilt/ac - not original but close '06 Chevy TrailBlazerSS - LS2/4L70e - little black hot rod SUV - my DD '18 Kia Sorento - wife's econo-driver '95 Chevy S10 - reg cab shortbed, LS, 4.3, auto... my '68's powertrain and chassis build -links broken A surprise phase - carb to efi -links broken |
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Amarillo, Tx
Posts: 267
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Re: ls1 swap question
Thanks for all of your thoughts you have opened the doors for alot of options. One question though on the aluminum fuel line will it stand the fuel pressure?
Last edited by 68fixeruper; 04-12-2010 at 04:25 PM. |
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Amarillo, Tx
Posts: 267
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Re: ls1 swap question
i have one more question. For those of you running inline fuel pumps which one do u recommend. I read alot of walbro pumps being noisy but of course i have read not heard so any info or recommendation would be great. thanks
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#17 | |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Tucson
Posts: 2,183
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Re: ls1 swap question
Quote:
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#18 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Amarillo, Tx
Posts: 267
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Re: ls1 swap question
ok so im gonna run aluminum hard lines and 3/8 fuel injection hose where the pump/filter are and from the tank to hardline and hardline to fuel rail. My question is on these fuel pumps all of them are 3/8 to 5/16 outlet or 3/8 to 10mm either way going smaller on the outlet side so what do i need to do to fix that ordeal.
http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD+Ignition/121/2225/10002/-1 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPN-GSL392/ |
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#19 |
Kill Bill...et
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Winchestertonfieldville, Wa
Posts: 366
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Re: ls1 swap question
I didn't go with the Walbro. It's been a while but I think I went with an Accel pump. Mounted underneath the drivers door on the frame. I've got a strip of rubber (about 1/6th inch) between the pump and the frame. A little hum, but not as bad as I've heard people complain about. Just enough to remind you it's still running.
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#20 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Amarillo, Tx
Posts: 267
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Re: ls1 swap question
Quote:
hmm i figured u wouldnt want to mount that pump way up there. Anyways ive been looking at the bosch 044 and the walbro 255 but im still a lil confused on why they have a two sizes on the ends of the pump |
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#21 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: metropolis il
Posts: 91
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Re: ls1 swap question
Quote:
as for there being 2 diff in/out sizes many of the pumps are that way, I am pretty sure the walbro can be had with the same in/out size. On my truck i just have a cheap inline for mid 80/90's ford trucks/vans. They are about $50 or so. In their factory configuration they had a low pressure in tank pump that fed the high pressure pump. My truck, and my buddies 69 camaro are just running the high pressure pumps and have done fine, his car has been on the road for a couple years. Another buddy is running an inline walbro 255, in a 69 camaro, it is not that loud mounted to the truck floor, so Below the cab mounted to the frame rail I don't think it would be that loud at all. Last edited by junkman; 04-12-2010 at 10:53 PM. |
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#22 |
Kill Bill...et
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Winchestertonfieldville, Wa
Posts: 366
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Re: ls1 swap question
Oh yeah. I still have the tank behind the seat. That's why the pump is all the way up there. Guess I coulda mentioned that.
As far as the two different sizes, I imagine it has something to do with the gravity feed to the pump hence the larger 3/8th's inlet, but TPI roller type pumps normally have a 5/16th's outlet. I can assure you, you'll have no problems feeding your motor with that Walbro pump. You may have to tinker toy some fittings together to get it to match up with your fuel rail. |
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#23 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Carbondale, Kansas
Posts: 547
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Re: ls1 swap question
these are all great ideas im just getting ready to do my fuel system. subsribing.
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#24 |
Kill Bill...et
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Winchestertonfieldville, Wa
Posts: 366
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Re: ls1 swap question
Tell you what you don't want to do. Here's a pic of what the previous owner did....no smoking!
To his defense...it was JB welded before I jiggled it. |
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#25 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Amarillo, Tx
Posts: 267
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Re: ls1 swap question
Omg lol that's terrible alright I'll just go 5/16s from the outlet of the pump and switch back to 3/8 before I get to the fuel rail. I just heard on the walbro pumps they don't last long so alot of ppl run the Bosch 044 because of realiability and it's quiet
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