Power Windows just quit

[schnaiters]

Last night driving home from a football game, my power windows (both sides) just quit. No noise like they're trying to work, so I figure it's a blown fuse. Pulled and replaced the fuse today, and still nothing. I think the fuse was blown but I am not sure because it was in a little metal box and I can't see the element. Any ideas what to troubleshoot next? I don't think both switches failed simultaneously? That would be too big a coincidence?

[schnaiters]

Oh, yeah. '83 Jimmy.

[schnaiters]

OK--now I can open and close the passenger window using both switches, but neither window using only the switch for that window. Bad switch maybe on the driver's side?

[Mike_D]

I would suspect the switch is going bad or the relay is going bad. Also check the ground, maybe it's pinched or corroded.

[schnaiters]

New switch (drivers side) from LMC came today. Swapped them out on my lunch break. Now the passenger window works using the passenger side switch, but still nothing on drivers side. Where is the relay located? Also gonna check the ground and follow the wiring to the motor to see if it all looks good first, I guess. Any other thoughts?

[old Rusty C10]

make sure all the connections are good to the drivers switch they tend to get hot and the plastic melts so they dont make good contact with the prongs on the switch.. id also check the ground and go back at the wiring of the motor with a test light and see what happens there if you have power to one door its more than likely a wiring issue and not a relay... check all the connections and any areas that could rub against metal

[westofb]

inside the rubber sleve on the drivers door between the door and the cab there is a ground wire, well actually several of them that are joined with a crimp on connector. As the door opens and closes it will bend the wires back and forth and cause the ground wires to snap, this will cause the windows and door locks to quit working, or sometimes they will work sometimes as you open and close the drivers door, you could try opening the door at different gaps and testing your switches. I have seen this happen on many trucks, it is a pain to fix, because of the cramped quarters, but I would check this area first to avoid buying stuff you don't need. Good luck!

[schnaiters]

Thanks everyone. Westofb had the closest answer. It was the red (power?) wire in the rubber sleeve that had a missing connector. Reconnected it and it works like a charm.

[westofb]

Blind sows even find an acorn now and then!

[dswancutt]

Well, you could have my problem. Some genius has wired the windows so that they always have power to them, even when the ignition is off. Which is causing my battery to drain down.

Lots of little **** like this I need to fix to make it reliable.

[zeewhiz]

Originally Posted by westofb

inside the rubber sleve on the drivers door between the door and the cab there is a ground wire, well actually several of them that are joined with a crimp on connector. As the door opens and closes it will bend the wires back and forth and cause the ground wires to snap, this will cause the windows and door locks to quit working, or sometimes they will work sometimes as you open and close the drivers door, you could try opening the door at different gaps and testing your switches. I have seen this happen on many trucks, it is a pain to fix, because of the cramped quarters, but I would check this area first to avoid buying stuff you don't need. Good luck!

How do you disconnect the rubber sleeve? Both flanges look to be riveted, instead of using screws. If I grind the rivets off, what can I use to reattach them?

[motornut]

there is a clip to join the wire harness in the door to the inside of the truck,it's justinside thetruck up under the dash,unclip it,attach a fish wire, pull it back into the door (through the rubber)for inspection/repair.use fish wire to pull it back.........this happened with mine.......cracks IN the wires only found when removed it........For me i went to manuals

fish wire=coat hanger,stiff wire........

[dropd80s]

1st off there are no relays on our trucks, all the power goes through the switches.

Originally Posted by zeewhiz

How do you disconnect the rubber sleeve? Both flanges look to be riveted, instead of using screws. If I grind the rivets off, what can I use to reattach them?

You can probably use a screw to reattatch them or use another rivet. I plan on using rivets.

[dswancutt]

Originally Posted by dropd80s

1st off there are no relays on our trucks, all the power goes through the switches.


You can probably use a screw to reattatch them or use another rivet. I plan on using rivets.

77-80 use a relay under the dash for the power windows. Mine has been repaired, and I use that in the loosest of terms by a "master mechanic", butchered would be a more apt description. I am going to have to find a doner to get mine working.

[joe231]

the power windows never had relays in stock form, there is a relay for the power locks though under the dash to the right of the steering column....

[dswancutt]

For 77-80 they have a relay. I have a Factory wiring diagram that shows it. The part number is 3996204, group 12.263, again from a factory parts manual. After 81 they don't to my knowledge.

[87chevy.com]

Originally Posted by joe231

the power windows never had relays in stock form, there is a relay for the power locks though under the dash to the right of the steering column....

I myself plan to wire in relays for the windows... the reason the switches fail is becuase everythime you work the switch , you make the connection battery to motor and that arc's... may arcs kills the contact... plus the relay takes care of the load thus lowering the resistance between the contacts of the switch possibly speeding up a @55 motor even though they are new GM! ahh
havent done it yet, but its one of those things I plan on doing some day...

[joe231]

Originally Posted by dswancutt

For 77-80 they have a relay. I have a Factory wiring diagram that shows it. The part number is 3996204, group 12.263, again from a factory parts manual. After 81 they don't to my knowledge.

none of my 77-80 diagrams show a relay for the windows, nor does my '80 c-10 have one...it does have a power lock relay.......
how does it show this wired? it is a SPST N.O. relay that is normally used as a horn relay...



http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/12vdc...tactrelay.aspx

[dropd80s]

Originally Posted by 87chevy.com

I myself plan to wire in relays for the windows... the reason the switches fail is becuase everythime you work the switch , you make the connection battery to motor and that arc's... may arcs kills the contact... plus the relay takes care of the load thus lowering the resistance between the contacts of the switch possibly speeding up a @55 motor even though they are new GM! ahh
havent done it yet, but its one of those things I plan on doing some day...

I have done this and it works really well.

Originally Posted by dswancutt

77-80 use a relay under the dash for the power windows. Mine has been repaired, and I use that in the loosest of terms by a "master mechanic", butchered would be a more apt description. I am going to have to find a doner to get mine working.

I have never had a 77-80 w/ power windows, so I'm not sure on that.

[LONGHAIR]

I don't recall ever running into relays on them either, but the wiring on these confuses most people quickly.
They have a "Double Pole Double Throw" (DPDT) switch and the motor is isolated from ground. When you push the switch one way it gives the motor power and ground, to run one direction. When you pull the switch the other way it is just the opposite. It sends the power to the terminal on the motor that got ground before, and power to the one that was grounded before. The necessary ground is actually at the switch.