NEED HELP! I'm beyond aggravated

[lillwr]

I'm so angry, I'm about to just post the truck on CL and wipe my hands clean of it. I've only had it for about a month and a half now and already been through 2 batteries. If the truck sits over a weekend as it always does, the batt dies. I have NO accessories hooked up. No radio, dome light, nothing plugged into the lighter thing, NOTHING! Why is my tuck eating batteries? It's just a lil I6 69 C10

[Hottrucks]

check the voltage regulator...I had the same issue if you unplug the back of the alt listen for an spark........replce the reg and you should be good

[Kerry P]

In addition to a something draining the battery, on over charging condition will kill batteries.

Kerry P

[lillwr]

Alright Ill check the voltage regulator before it starts raining on me. So if it sparks it needs replacing is what you're saying right?

[cam.man67]

Def. check the voltage reg. Had the same thing happen on my Jeep.

[Hottrucks]

Originally Posted by lillwr

Alright Ill check the voltage regulator before it starts raining on me. So if it sparks it needs replacing is what you're saying right?

yep with it off.....

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Take the main feed wire (10-12 gauge red) off the back of the alt. Touch it to the term & watch for a spark. If you get a spark you have a shorted diode in the alt. There is nothing wrong with your bat. Something is draining it down over night. This is the most common cause. Don't get discouraged. These trucks are great fun & learning experience. You have a bunch of knowledgable people on this website willing to help you.

[rusty baker]

On my truck, the brake light switch was sticking. It can be something really simple.

[lillwr]

I charged the batt for about 15 mins and then hooked it back up. I disconnected the v. reg. and got nothing when I hooked it back up. Then I started the truck and let it idle for a bit and shut it off. I disconnected the v. reg. again and this time when I plugged it back in I heard a very faint spark (didn't see one). I searched and came up with this Please tell me it's the cheaper of the 2 that I need so my ol' lady doesn't flip on me

[jay6891]

Use the top one listed if money is tight and the wife is looking. IMO. I have an extra but it would probably cost about the same to ship. But before throwing parts at it. I would have key off. And pull each fuse out one at a time looking for sparks. If you find one. That circuit is the one pulling your battery down. Good luck

[lillwr]

Originally Posted by jay6891

I would have key off. And pull each fuse out one at a time looking for sparks. If you find one. That circuit is the one pulling your battery down. Good luck

Wow, don't know why I didn't think of that earlier. Maybe due to the excessive heat and anger. Well it started pouring as it always does in the Sunshine State so I'll have to wait till it lets up to do this test. Thanks, to you and everyone else who responded. I'll post my update

[lil hoodlum]

I know this is not a fix but you can simply unhook the negative cable from the battery when not in use to save your battery.

I had a few electrical issues with my truck as well. I know it can be very frustrating to find a dead battery and keep replacing them. I finally solved all of my electrical problems with an aftermarket wiring harness.

Don't give up! Hang in there! You'll get it fixed!

Good luck,

Keith

[68 Stepside]

Remove your negative battery cable, place a test light between the end of the test light and the battery terminal. If the light is on with the key off, remove fuses until the test light goes out. That's the first step. Once you find the draw (when the light goes out), you can trace that circuit down to pinpoint the problem.

[68 Stepside]

Forgot to mention....if you don't have a test light, use a volt meter and pull fuses until your draw goes to 0.

[Hottrucks]

don't laugh but the last one got smoked when I was doing some exhaust work?? yep I was welding some pipes and had the ground on one tail pipe and reached across to weld the other hanger...I can go into a long winded expination but that was the cause...

[Street Lethal '72]

The 72 I just bought also has this problem.. to add to the other 2000 issues. Except this one drains in about an hour.. it has all kinds of rigged up air bag solenoids, and a crappy wiring job on the radio the PO put in.. its all coming out.

Hope you get yours working!

[lillwr]

Well the rain never stopped before the sun went down so I didn't get to do anything other than what I already posted. I did get that lil spark from the voltage reg though so I'm def gonna replace that

[67gmcstepside]

I have used 68 Stepside's trouble shooting method more then once on my camaro builds. Electical issues are always hard to identify. If all else fails take 1 fuse out every weekend until the drain doesn't happen. Then your in the ball park with the circuit thats shorting to grd.

[Stocker]

Was going to suggest the test light (or VOM) method but 68 Stepside beat me to it. This is a quick, easy, simple way to identify which circuit is draining the battery -- a bit more reliable imo than looking for a spark, which also works but I would prefer it to be a last resort.

[jay6891]

If funds are available, I would also suggest converting/upgrading to a internal regulated alternator. Pretty easily done, and you get rid of the old reg and alt. Think I used one off a Mid eightys Camaro. Been a while ago.
Here is a link for some directions on how to do.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=119379

[71swb4x4]

Definitely consider the internally regulated alternator. Last time I went to a pick-n-pull and got an alternator for dirt cheap. Worked like a charm.

[Shane]

run by your local Harbor Freight and spend $2.00 ... yes, $2.00 on a cheap multi meter ... they are perfect for this type of thing ... chasing shorts ... checking voltage ... "ringing out" a circuit, etc ... and if you cook it then it's no great loss.

They are also surprisingly accurate for no more than they cost ... truly don't know how the Chi-wainese make them so cheap.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-90899.html



Harbor Freight
7089 South Orange Blossom Trail
Orlando, FL 32809
(407) 438-5470

[Todd Hepler]

+1 on the alternator upgrade.

I used a CS144 140 amp I scavenged at a local pull-a-part for $15. I liked it so much I put one on my 67 Fury.

Look for these cars, it came stock in all of 'em:

(1996-94) Buick Roadmaster 5.7L*
(1996-93) Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham (RWD) 5.7L*
(1996-93) Chevrolet Caprice 4.3L, 5.7L*
(1996-95) Chevrolet Impala 5.7L*
(1995-92) Chevrolet Lumina APV Van 3.8L*
(1995-92) Oldsmobile Silhouette 3.8L*
(1995-92) Pontiac Trans Sport 3.8L*

Good luck with the electrical issue - it should be easy to troubleshoot with the wealth of knowledge here!

-Todd

[bandit01ws6]

I just played the draw game on a friends 80 k10 who ever had put in the harness grounded everything to the core support. nothing to block or frame then they put in another battery to give it enough power to start. I changed 2 of the cables to go to block and frame from negitive battery post and took the battery that was trash out and no more problems.

[Legolas894]

Originally Posted by 68 Stepside

Remove your negative battery cable, place a test light between the end of the test light and the battery terminal. If the light is on with the key off, remove fuses until the test light goes out. That's the first step. Once you find the draw (when the light goes out), you can trace that circuit down to pinpoint the problem.

This has always worked for me and it doesn't take long. In the meantime, leave the negative cable off overnight.