Dana 44 help.

[swamp rat]

Thanks for the tip Shawn!

EDIT: Forgot to ask, where did you get your Kingpins? how much were they? I was looking at Early Classic enterprises and it was looking like $78 each for the upper and $95 for the lower, these are suppost to be Moog parts.. Do you have part numbers??

I admitedly havent had the money to buy parts yet, have to pay off some bills first.. p

[Schralper]

if you're gonna pull hub I hope you've thought about switching to xover steering.
OMG, it's SO much better than stock steering arm geometry.
It's even better enuff I'm gonna put xover on my beater truck
http://www.blackbirdscustomtrucks.com/index21.html#d44

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Schralper

if you're gonna pull hub I hope you've thought about switching to xover steering.
OMG, it's SO much better than stock steering arm geometry.
It's even better enuff I'm gonna put xover on my beater truck
http://www.blackbirdscustomtrucks.com/index21.html#d44

Question, All I do is drive street and dirt road if i go camping, would i really see or feel a benefit in my application? I fully understand the geometry and ground clearance benefit.

I thank you for the webpage, got that one saved!! looks like they might have a rear disk conversion for my Eaton rear diff too..

[LONGHAIR]

There's that "king pin" thing again. These are not king pin front ends. They have ball-joints, there is a big difference.

[ERASER5]

Late to the party again.

I just did my ball joints, and everything else on the D44 on my F250. A few things are different (axles), but very similar in how the job is done. And how much of a pain it is to separate old parts!

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

There's that "king pin" thing again. These are not king pin front ends. They have ball-joints, there is a big difference.

LOL! Thats what happens when i'm just waking up with my cup of coffee!! Believe it or not I was asking myself after i left the house if i posted king pin again..

[Schralper]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Question, All I do is drive street and dirt road if i go camping, would i really see or feel a benefit in my application? I fully understand the geometry and ground clearance benefit.

if you want a noticeably better turning radius & bump steer
I couldn't run a front locker w/o it, it's a fix of an OEM bad idea.
Yes that does happen, even w/ chevy's.
& rear discs, if you're towing or just want that eaton easier to work on & get parts, get the parking brake.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Schralper

if you want a noticeably better turning radius & bump steer
I couldn't run a front locker w/o it, it's a fix of an OEM bad idea.
Yes that does happen, even w/ chevy's.
& rear discs, if you're towing or just want that eaton easier to work on & get parts, get the parking brake.

Yea that was the first thing i found looking at the webpage was the rear disk conversion for the Eaton.

I already love the turning radius on my truck, you mean it can get better? LOL!

Thanks again for the link!

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by Schralper

if you want a noticeably better turning radius & bump steer

There is really no such thing as "bump steer" in a solid axle vehicle. Bump steer is a condition in which the toe measurement changes as the suspension cycles through it's travel. As the toe changes the vehicle's direction changes with the dominant tire. It can be quite unnerving.
With a straight axle vehicle, a solid straight tie-rod connects the wheels to the point that they cannot "steer" independently from each other.

There is an exception to this, but it only applies to early to mid 70s Ford trucks and some late model Dodges. They had a crazy version of cross-over steering called "inverted y". The main tie-rod went directly from the steering box to the right side wheel, with a secondary (short) rod that connects the left wheel from the middle of the main rod. As the suspension travels the toe changes quite a bit.
Converting away from this is as popular with the Ford guys as the part-time conversion is with the Chevy guys, because it could be done with stock parts from '78-'79 model trucks. This was all before the abomination that came along in '80. The 4 wheel drive version of the twin I-beam, called twin traction beam....true POS.

[Davetopay]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

There is really no such thing as "bump steer" in a solid axle vehicle. Bump steer is a condition in which the toe measurement changes as the suspension cycles through it's travel. As the toe changes the vehicle's direction changes with the dominant tire. It can be quite unnerving.
With a straight axle vehicle, a solid straight tie-rod connects the wheels to the point that they cannot "steer" independently from each other.

There is an exception to this, but it only applies to early to mid 70s Ford trucks and some late model Dodges. They had a crazy version of cross-over steering called "inverted y". The main tie-rod went directly from the steering box to the right side wheel, with a secondary (short) rod that connects the left wheel from the middle of the main rod. As the suspension travels the toe changes quite a bit.
Converting away from this is as popular with the Ford guys as the part-time conversion is with the Chevy guys, because it could be done with stock parts from '78-'79 model trucks. This was all before the abomination that came along in '80. The 4 wheel drive version of the twin I-beam, called twin traction beam....true POS.

Isn't that also similar to the set up used on Willy's and Kaiser era Jeeps?

[LONGHAIR]

I don't recall them being that way?

Maybe you are thinking of M151? But those are pretty rare. So many of them were destroyed because they were deemed unsafe.