The "In over my head" build thread

[Burt4x4]

Get a 454 and
Sucks you got ripped...pleanty of local builders were you live...never had a crate engine before. I almost went with that 383HT but I ended up getting a '74 454 "running when pulled" out of a 2x4 truck and spent the same amount of money getting that rebuilt, balanced and added Edelbrock MPFI. Throttle reponce is amazing and all that torque right off idle is alot of fun too
Good Luck

[SeventyOne]

Originally Posted by Burt4x4

Get a 454 and
Sucks you got ripped...pleanty of local builders were you live...never had a crate engine before. I almost went with that 383HT but I ended up getting a '74 454 "running when pulled" out of a 2x4 truck and spent the same amount of money getting that rebuilt, balanced and added Edelbrock MPFI. Throttle reponce is amazing and all that torque right off idle is alot of fun too
Good Luck

Can you point me in the direction of some local builders? This is my first resto and my contact list is quite small - could use a referral.

I thought of going 454 but didn't want to deal with the firewall issues.

[Burt4x4]

I wish I could, I live in Modesto and work in Pleasanton. THe guy that built my 454 (long block) a few years back had worked at the same machine shop for over 15yrs. in Fremont but that shop has sence closed...victom of the resession I guess.
My firends down in Morgan Hill do LSx installs www.pacificfab.net and all kinds of custom fab work but they are not an engine rebuild shop persay.

[SeventyOne]

Ok well...until someone can tell me who builds engines around here I am set with a GMPP crate (which I don't think is necessarily a bad thing). I've tried google searching and all sorts of crap but can't seem to come up with any results for local engine builders.

[SeventyOne]

Ok guys I need some help on this one...

I'm getting the Dana 44 back together after taking it apart and am also swapping it over to 8 lug. I've got all the parts but when I got the new 8 lug rotors it seemed to me that the wheel studs were too short.

I am running new aluminum wheels that are about 1/4" thick at the mounting flange and I wanted to make sure I had enough thread engagement for the lug nuts.





That said I pressed out the studs that came with the hub/rotor and pressed in stock 14bolt SRW studs which are about 1/2-3/4" longer.



After getting the longer studs pressed in, the hub and rotor have some play between them when I grab the hub and twist.



Here are the options as I see it - please comment and let me know what you think

1) Leave it with the play - I just put this here for you all to tell me it's NOT an option, seems like a good way to break the wheel studs or other parts.

2) Tack weld the top of the rotor hat to the bottom edge of the hub a few times around it's circumference. I think this might be ok but could be bad if the tacks break and I am then back where I am in option 1.

3) Go back to the shorter studs. They will be just fine and I am over thinking things - just make sure they stay tight and torqued often.

I tried looking for other examples where the studs were too short and longer ones were needed for thicker wheels but didn't find any - I would guess plenty of people have run newer wheels on an 8 lug front without trouble. I am leaning towards option three - what do you guys think?

[jaros44sr]

Are both units rocking or just the one side, maybe dirt between the two parts, seems strange that jsut changing studs would cause a problem. Are all surfaces flat?

[SeventyOne]

the hub wants to rotate inside the rotor a little bit I'm think because the studs are not as wide at the knurls than the stock ones (probably tenths or hundredths of an inch smaller).

Parts are clean (no dirt) and are brand new. I bought the hub and rotor already pressed together with the shorter studs. all surfaces should be to spec.

[-Greg72]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

Can you point me in the direction of some local builders? This is my first resto and my contact list is quite small - could use a referral.

I thought of going 454 but didn't want to deal with the firewall issues.

I can introduce you to a good engine builder in your area. The same guy that built Burt4x4s motor has built a total of 3 BBC motors for me as well. He lives in Fremont CA, and he still builds motors for people. His name is Scott Smith and I can get you his contact info if you're interested in meeting him in person to talk more about engine options.

Speaking of which, one of the motors he built for me is a 496 stroker converted to a full-roller cam setup. It's sitting in my garage still wrapped in plastic from when he built it. It was supposed to go into my '72 Burb but the truck got sold, so now it's homeless. It's a real torque beastie....puts out 620Lb/Ft at around 2500RPM!!!


-G

[SeventyOne]

Greg72 - Sure I'd love his info - does he do small blocks (383)? Still not ready to make that BB jump although I'm sure down the road that day will come

[SeventyOne]

Ok - I bought some new wheel studs to try - they have the same shape as the stock studs I pressed out of the hub and are a little longer (not as long as the 14 bolt studs but enough to ease my mind about thread engagement). I think the shape may have a lot to do with the fitment - if you see the pic above the stock ones have a little "bump" right before the head that the 14 bolt studs to not. Also, they are listed as having a .625 knurl on Dorman's database which also match the stock studs.

I'll get out into the garage after lunch and try them out. Wish me luck!

[SeventyOne]

Well I think I have a solution.

The new wheel studs seemed to fit the bill - correct .625 knurl diameter, longer than stock, 9/16-18 threads - but I ran into the same issue as the 14 bolt studs: the rotational rocking or slack between the hub and rotor.

Here's a shot of all three for comparison:


For Sh's and giggles, with 4 of the new studs in, and 4 of the 14 bolt studs in the hub I pressed out 1 of the 14 bolt studs and pressed a stocker in its place. The slack lessened. Using my brain for good rather than evil I tried a second stock stud on the opposite side of the rotor in place of another 14 bolt stud....moment of truth....rocking/slack gone!

I did a little more research on other wheel studs and was thinking of trying a .627 knurl stud for all 8 but it wasn't in stock at Napa. But not knowing if it solves my issue I think the way the hub sits might be ok.

I think I will just run 2 of the stock studs to alleviate the slack issue, and 6 of the longer "new" studs to ease my mind over the thread engagement of the lug nuts. I know it's weird but honestly who would know (aside from all you fine folks reading this) and more importantly I think it is safer than either alternative (slack or minimal thread engagement).

So I will order up some more of the new wheel studs, finish these things up and move on. Good new from all this crap? My biceps are huge now from lifting the heavy hub and rotor assembly a billion times

[cleszkie]

Those aluminum mags don't work with the acorn style lug nuts. The studs are not supposed to extend out past the rim surface. You need to get yourself "Mag" style lug nuts. These are sold at many parts stores (Pep Boys has them). These lug nuts have a deep shoulder which is threaded inside that goes down between the stud and rim. Don't drive with the acorn style nuts, you will break studs and probably will no be able to center your wheels in the hubs.