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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Tampa, Fl.
Posts: 6
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I just go out from under my 71' lwb Half ton, 2WD, The carrier bearing dose not look to be removable on this truck. (Major ?)
I do see some rivets that hold a bracket to the trailing arm cross member. Are these to be removed for removing the drive shaft? or is there another place to look? I do not see another place for bolts to be holding this thing together. If the rivets are to be removed, I have to start wondering about the rest of the truck (Original Equipment or newer?) Thanks for hte help, Ed |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Meansville, Georgia
Posts: 218
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carrier bearing removal
there are two bolts on top of the bracket that go through the bracket and into the bearing assembly. i think it's about a 9/16 head bolt. i've replaced two of these things.
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68 SWB Stepside 72 Cheyenne 20 72 SWB Fleetside 72 Suburban 72 2wd Blazer |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: lexington,South Carolina
Posts: 158
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there are two bolts on top of the mid shaft bushing. they are 9/16. you will have to remove the drive shaft. Once you have the drive shaft out you will have to remove the bolt ( I think it is a 3/4)from inbetween the universal joints. You might have to beat the old bearing off the shaft. Then install the new one.
Demon ![]()
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69-C10 LWB 71- fleetside shortbed It's a shame stupidity isn't painful Never play leapfrog with a unicorn |
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#4 |
Nothing fits but the oil
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Gaston, Indiana
Posts: 424
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Try not to beat the old bearing off, or beat the new one on. Take it to the shop and have it pressed off, and pressed on. The 2 bolts are located on top of the carrier holder, between the bottom of the bed and the center support.
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Land of the free Because of the brave |
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#5 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Saskatoon,SK,Canada
Posts: 2,476
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To get the old bearing off after splitting the shafts remove the rubber surround and then attach a puller. Tension the puller and then heat the bearing with a popane torch. It'll pop off. I find the new ones just slide back on for me.
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Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: lexington,South Carolina
Posts: 158
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Actually if you want to get technical about. If you heat the new bearing to 100 degrees F the bearing should slide on the shaft with no problem. For you enginering guys it should be a small k6 fit.
Demon ![]()
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69-C10 LWB 71- fleetside shortbed It's a shame stupidity isn't painful Never play leapfrog with a unicorn |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Tampa, Fl.
Posts: 6
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Thank ypu all for the information. I would have been out there all Saturday removing those rivets. Then I would have to have kicked myself. It took all of 10 min. Thanks Again, Ed
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#8 |
Spank 'em if you got 'em!
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 628
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Hey kspops, I got a press I've been itchin' to use if your coming up this way!
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Long Knight '71 C-20, 350ci, TH350, Edl. 1406 Carb w/elec.choke, Ignitor ignition, Viper Tires, Orange Dipstick |
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#9 |
Spank 'em if you got 'em!
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 628
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By the way, welcome to the board!
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Long Knight '71 C-20, 350ci, TH350, Edl. 1406 Carb w/elec.choke, Ignitor ignition, Viper Tires, Orange Dipstick |
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