new here couple of questions

[76kcfdeng]

Hi, just bought this truck. It is registered as a 70 chevy. It is a gmc cab on an unknown year frame. I am the 4th owner since the project was started so I don't have all the details on it, paid about 30 cents on the dollar for it.
How do I tell what year the frame is? How do I tell which brakes are on it so I can buy the right drop spindles? The brake booster is on a bracket and sticks out about 4 in from the firewall, what does it take to mount it closer, new booster or what?
The truck is in great shape, no rust and is a runner, rebuilt 350 and th400. It came with new inner and outer fenders in the box. New frt bumper in chrome, new 71 grill surround and bezels. It also came with new complete seal kits for the doors and glass. Some other stuff also, need to go through it. It came without a bed. I bought a fleet bed that I pick up tomorrow. Here are some pics of it still at my friends house. I will get it home next week.
Thanks, Glen


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[red69ss]

get the numbers off the frame and post them here and one of these guys can decode them for you, as far as that booster goes that is the original bracket for one of these trucks I guess tis possible to get it closer to the firewall, but I don't remember ever seeing one done though. looks like a solid start to a truck. good luck

[76kcfdeng]

Thanks red69ss, I will have to get the numbers and post them. I figured that was a stock setup for the booster, seems like I have seen others that mount close to the firewall. I think it will make a good start. Plan to clean it up and get it put together. Then a 4/6 drop and work on the body, probably semi flat black it for a while. Also want to get the factory air working.
Is the only difference on the brakes the rotor thickness. I need to know how to figure if these are 71/72 discs or the newer ones so I can order the proper drop spindles.
Thanks, Glen

[red69ss]

if you get the numbers from the frame, you have to hope that those brakes came with that frame, which is likely a 71/72 since it is 5 lug front and rear . The parts could also have been robbed from a 71/72 or even a 73-87. I "think" the ball joints and tie rod ends are diff. for 73-87 compared to 71/72 but I'm not positive on that . maybe someone will chime in with more suspension knowledge than me.good luck

[raycow]

I'm going to say 71-72 on the brakes because you have 72-earlier control arms. This isn't bulletproof, because it is possible to put later balljoints in the early control arms and run 73-up spindles. However, most people doing this upgrade will usually swap the later control arms to get the rubber bushings, or even the entire crossmember.

Ray

[76kcfdeng]

Thanks Ray, I was thinking thats what they were. I don't have the truck at home yet to really dig in to it, tomorrow it should be here. I picked up the bed for it today, needs work but its fixable.
Is there a good reason to upgrade to the newer control arms and brakes? Is there a significant difference in braking or ride/ handling?
Thanks, Glen

[sameyrasmea72]

The frame is stamped in 2 places. The very 1st # is the year of the frame.

[sameyrasmea72]

I think you can see the # in your pic. Looks like a 0 or a 1970????????

My pic is too small, but you can see it better in your original pic.

[76kcfdeng]

Thanks sameyrasmea72, I will check out the original pic or the truck tomorrow.
Glen

[76kcfdeng]

Checked the picture, 70 it is.

[raycow]

Originally Posted by 76kcfdeng

Is there a good reason to upgrade to the newer control arms and brakes? Is there a significant difference in braking or ride/ handling?

No noticeable difference in the brakes. For me, the gain is that the rubber bushings don't need greasing. Some people say the ride is better because they transmit less road shock to the frame. I haven't been able to feel the difference until the metal bushings get loose enough to make noise.

Ray

[76kcfdeng]

Thanks Ray, I think I will stick with what I have then. No need to spend money for no significant advantage. I can grease the bushings easily enough.
Glen

[76kcfdeng]

Here are some pics of the bed i picked up today.







And the tailgate I got at the U-pull -it plus all the tail light housings for cheap.

[MAK191]

If you are worried about the ball joints, just order some new ones that match the drop spindles. You will have it apart anyways and have the piece of mind that they are correct. I guess that assumes you have the money to do that.

[Camaro_nut2001]

WOW, nice score! Keep those pictures coming & congratulations on your super nice truck.

[76kcfdeng]

I have the money, are the rod ends different also though. Why change if I don't need to? I am getting the drop from ECE and they have spindles for either.
Glen