My T-5 swap all done but got bad trany

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Blackjeep99

Ya sorry I menT input shaft. Just woke up and rePlied lol. No I did not use a step ring where can I get one at? The only time I had trouble geting it in gear was the first start up after that never a problem shifting. I have origa bell in my truck. Let me no about the step ring would like to have one thanx.

Not to step on raycows toes but I got mine here:

http://dennymac.com/mod.php?mod=user...103&page_id=54

Some good info on the site also...

I spoke to a nice lady on the phone and the ring was $28.00 shipped. That is the best price I could find anywhere..

LockDoc

[raycow]

Originally Posted by Blackjeep99

No I did not use a step ring where can I get one at? The only time I had trouble geting it in gear was the first start up after that never a problem shifting. I have origa bell in my truck. Let me no about the step ring would like to have one thanx.

If you have a 68 or later bellhousing you must install a step ring. The transmission will die an early death without it. The rings are available from Novak, Advance Adapters, and others, including an outfit which advertises on this board.
http://dennymac.com/mod.php?mod=user...103&page_id=54
I have not purchased from them yet, but they have the lowest price for the ring I have seen so far.

Ray

[raycow]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Not to step on raycows toes but I got mine here:

http://dennymac.com/mod.php?mod=user...103&page_id=54

No sore toes at all. I welcome all the help I can get.

Ray

[Blackjeep99]

Thanks I just goT it ordered should be hear thursday. I Hope!

[raycow]

Originally Posted by Blackjeep99

Thanks I just goT it ordered should be hear thursday. I Hope!

Please let us know when you are ready to install the ring. I would like to suggest an easy test that might save the next transmission.

Ray

[Blackjeep99]

What dose the test entail?

[raycow]

Well you would need to bolt the transmission to the bellhousing, but not install the driveshaft. Then have a helper get inside the car, put the transmission in 4th gear, and hold down the clutch pedal. Go underneath the car and try to turn the output shaft. If the shaft doesn't turn easily, that means you have a problem.

I also recommend that you try this same test with the transmission that is installed in there now before you remove it. You can do the test with the driveshaft installed if you get the rear wheels off the ground.

Ray

[Blackjeep99]

Ok I will do that. I already pulled the bad one out tho .

[Mayo]

I did a T5 swap in my truck but I have and 83 Camaro tranny. It went out on me after a year, but it has been fine the last 7 months.

[292farmer]

ok so i got a 292 like slomotion, currently sm465 and im thinking of putting a t5 in(believe its a t5)
and since its a 72 bellhousing i will require a snap ring correct? can i reuse my old clutch? saw alot of different setups after searching so got confused on that part.
what else will i need? i know shorter driveshaft does anyone know know how much longer the tranny is? ie how much do i need to shorten the shaft?
and i need to shorten the input shaft by 1/2in correct?
thanks everyone did my best using search forum but think i overloaded my brain....

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 292farmer

ok so i got a 292 like slomotion, currently sm465 and im thinking of putting a t5 in(believe its a t5)
and since its a 72 bellhousing i will require a snap ring correct? can i reuse my old clutch? saw alot of different setups after searching so got confused on that part.
what else will i need? i know shorter driveshaft does anyone know know how much longer the tranny is? ie how much do i need to shorten the shaft?
and i need to shorten the input shaft by 1/2in correct?
thanks everyone did my best using search forum but think i overloaded my brain....

If you are talking about a spacer ring, yes I think you will need one. Go to the DennyMac web site that I posted above and it will explain it all...

Did you see this excellent thread by brad?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=313954

I purchased the spacer plate for the swap. It was $129 and saved me a lot of work. I don't remember the thickness for sure.

LockDoc

[292farmer]

no missed his thread,looks good so far. i did truthfully try search forum feature. oh well maybe i searched wrong forum. would the spacer do with out the spacer ring and input shaft cut or just the cut on the shaft?

[slomotion]

The "spacer ring" is actually just a bushing to keep your trans centered up in the bell housing, and runs about $35 incl. shipping from one of the links above. Cutting 1/4" off the input shaft is free - if your shaft even needs to be cut. Measure from the face of the trans where it fits against the bellhousing, to the end of your input shaft. Then, measure from the aft face of your bellhousing to the center of the crankshaft where the pilot bushing lurks. If the crank dimension is longer, you're good to go. (You may have to drive the pilot bushing deeper into the crankshaft to avoid having the spline taper of the input shaft from bottoming against the pilot bushing.) If I remember correctly, I took 1/4" off the pilot bushing, and drove it deeper into the crankshaft recess, then cut 1/4" off the input shaft, and filed just a slight radius on the end just to knock off the sharp edge.
BTW, you probably already know that the easiest way to get the pilot bushing out of the crank is to pack as much grease as you can into the void forward of the bushing, then using a socket full of grease and a short extension or a dowel of the proper diameter to fit inside the pilot bore, and bump it with a hammer. The hydraulic pressure you create will force the bushing out.

[raycow]

Originally Posted by slomotion

the easiest way to get the pilot bushing out of the crank is to pack as much grease as you can into the void forward of the bushing, then using a socket full of grease and a short extension or a dowel of the proper diameter to fit inside the pilot bore, and bump it with a hammer. The hydraulic pressure you create will force the bushing out.

Easy yes, but can be quite messy if you can't get a really close fit between the dowel and the bushing. If you don't like getting grease in your eyes, may I suggest an alternative?

Screw a 5/8" or 16 mm tap into the bushing until it bottoms out against the end of the hole. Then keep on turning the tap and it will pull the bushing out of the crank. If you don't have a suitable tap you can usually rent an inside puller from most parts stores or tool rental outfits.

Ray

[slomotion]

Raycow is right, When I took out my bushing, the engine was sitting on the floor in front of me. I didn't think of the engine still in the truck.
So, you can do it raycow's way, stay clean, draw out the bushing and put in a new one (very inexpensive), or, you can do it the way I described, get grease in your eye, handle slippery tools, bang a knuckle or two, and at the same time contaminate the flywheel.

[292farmer]

lol i like getting dirty but i guess it depends on what my final plans are(motor in or out). im thinking the t5 may be severely inadequate for my uses. however the info related in the swaps is very useful, so thank you everyone.
however i do have at my dads a T34 in a international harvestor with a .82OD and a NP540go at my uncles(.82also). and i believe i know where to get some spicer 5831 aux. trans with either .73, or .85OD. im just trying to research swaps for those right now. driveshafts are the easiest part for me lol
any ideas on those swaps guys? though not to divert from this thread original intention i will be starting a thread soon as soon as im done searching this entire website(3 1/2hrs so far)

[raycow]

Originally Posted by 292farmer

i do have at my dads a T34 in a international harvestor with a .82OD and a NP540go at my uncles(.82also). and i believe i know where to get some spicer 5831 aux. trans with either .73, or .85OD. im just trying to research swaps for those right now. driveshafts are the easiest part for me lol
any ideas on those swaps guys? though not to divert from this thread original intention i will be starting a thread soon as soon as im done searching this entire website(3 1/2hrs so far)

Those are serious truck transmissions and are strong enough for anything you might want to put through them. Does the 540 have a GM bolt pattern? If yes, it would likely be the easiest swap. The others would be a challenge to adapt unless you can run the Spicer divorced.

Ray

[292farmer]

yes 540 has c40 up gm bolt pattern(no not same 540 as in sig), t34 i agree would be hardest (but an option) and definitely doing the spicer divorced it'd actually be the easiest to do for me, as i have at least 12 diff driveshafts lying around my dads, thinking of doing spicer and 540 together. i know double OD usually aren't good but in my case it would be an huge improvement.
as for the 540 will i need a big truck bellhousing or will it go to my stock c20? though 292 were popular in older c40s up so maybe thatd be the easiest?

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Raycow do you use a crossmember under the rear of the trans? I've done 3 of these & always put a universal crossmember under it. I can't see letting that long alum. trans. hanging there.

[raycow]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

Raycow do you use a crossmember under the rear of the trans?

When I installed the T-5 in my 60 I did not put a crossmember under it. The 4 speed I took out of that truck must have weighed twice what the T-5 does, and it came from the factory without a crossmember.

55-57 passenger cars use bellhousing mounts similar to the ones in our trucks. I have seen heavier long transmissions, like a TKO or Richmond, hung from those with no crossmember either.

Ray

[raycow]

Originally Posted by 292farmer

as for the 540 will i need a big truck bellhousing or will it go to my stock c20? though 292 were popular in older c40s up so maybe thatd be the easiest?

Well that's why I asked about the bolt pattern. I meant the same pattern as used for the passenger cars and light duty trucks. If you can post a pic of the front face it might help.

Ray

[Mayo]

I have a T5 in my truck without a crossmember too