Heater core help

[Beachcomber]

I am trying to replace my core after a local muffler shop cracked it while removing the exhaust manifolds.
I towed the truck home after they said, "it was leaking when you came in".
I didn't give them a cent.

I had to did in the scrap pile to find 3 of the 4 heat shields off the manifolds too.

I need to know what is the black tar-like stuff to seal the box back up?

thanks

[ChevLoRay]

So, is the heater core leaking, or are you talking about the housing around the core?

As far as sealers go, there's a gasket that goes between the plastic housing and the firewall. There are body sealers that you can get from NAPA. If you mean the spongy stuff around the extension tube that the hose hooks up to, my guesses are just guesses. It may be that you can get something from NAPA, also.

[Beachcomber]

yes its the heater core, they cracked the tube where it ends in the core.
This putty like stuff is around the box where it mates to the firewall.

I think there is a gasket around the core itself but I don't have time to mail order stuff, this is my daily driver.

[Beachcomber]

Here's some pics:










I bought this stuff but I don't think it's the stuff I need.

[LockDoc]

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I used "rope caulk". You should be able to get it at a hardware store. I know Ace Hardware carries it....

LockDoc

[Beachcomber]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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I used "rope caulk". You should be able to get it at a hardware store. I know Ace Hardware carries it....

LockDoc

Yes I heard of some "liquorice" type stuff.

http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/07.../photo_20.html

[tumbleweed68]

the stuff between the fiberglass housing and the firewall is a rope style seal. in the seal kits that you can get at lmc or classic parts you get this rope sealant, its not supposed to harden. I think you could use just about anything in a bind to seal it up. Really you wouldn't need anything but i would. Hope that helps.

[Beachcomber]

thanks y'all

I think the blower motor seal should be good enough for now.

[pmpski_1]

If necessary you can bypass the heater core too. I ran mine this way when I cracked it last year. Of course, you won't have any heat in the mean time.

[Beachcomber]

yes I could but I got a new core coming monday.

I wanted to put on these:

But they did not clear the starter or crossmember so I had to get a machine shop to get the airpump tubes out of my ramhorns and will have to get the exhaust done.
but the muffler shop cracked my core tube and lied about it so i will have to tow my truck to Chilliwack to get the work done.

I really like my truck, I just bought it for $2000 and I felt like crying when I seen they cracked my core and then lied to me.

[chisler]

Beachcomber who is doing it in Chilliwack ?

[Notrodder]

Strip caulk. You can bypass the heater core and drive it in the meantime.

If you really are putting those cheesy headers on, this is just the beginning of your problems.

[Beachcomber]

Originally Posted by chisler

Beachcomber who is doing it in Chilliwack ?

Vic's

[Beachcomber]

Originally Posted by Notrodder

Strip caulk. You can bypass the heater core and drive it in the meantime.

If you really are putting those cheesy headers on, this is just the beginning of your problems.

No I returned them and got my ramhorns fixed up.

[Beachcomber]

Well I got the heater core fixed.
I wanted a new core but the only ones are aluminum and the tanks are too wide for the brackets by 1/8 inch or more and i dint want to mickey mouse it so i had my core fixed.
It was stamped J68 and made by harris or something.
She's still in good shape except the craced inlet but Valley rad soldered it and it's mint.

I also got some new exhaust and thrush turbos.

I also got my 3rd rochester on there.

Thanks for the tips on the strip caulk, worked perfect.

[40chevy]

the stuff is know as dumb dumb......

like a thick buteal stuff

[Beachcomber]

yes it says dum dum, and it don't taste like liquorice

[40chevy]

yeah thats it

I have used seval boxed of it building cars

and you can by pass the heater core like I read up

at least the heater core is some what easy to get to

I would put a new one in

never put used in

[hilandr452]

I know I'm late posting on this. I used it as a guide today when I fixed my heater core. Those tubes are really easy to fix if you know how to sweat copper plumbing. Just heat it up and pull the tube out, it just fits in the opening there. Clean up the tube and seat really good and wire brush it until it's shiny. Apply tons of flux and put the pieces in place. heat the surrounding areas with a torch SLOWLY until it gets to the temp that solder melts and allow it to be sucked into the seam. When you have a nice bead around the seam and no lines, you're done. Cheap easy fix takes about ten minutes.

-Dan