Ebay "Turnkey" Power Brake Setups

[DransportGarage]

I see turnkey brake booster setups like this all the time on Ebay. What's the downside to going with one of these and adding the appropriate proportioning valve?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1955-...Q5fAccessories

Thanks,

[DransportGarage]

Has anyone used one of these? Do you like it?
Thanks

[Red Foreman]

Looks like good value.

[raycow]

No obvious downside other than the limited booster diameter, so your engine needs to pull decent vacuum. I looked at a similar setup for a passenger car, but passed on it because it wouldn't work with a clutch.

Ray

[DransportGarage]

Thanks Red & Ray. I'm putting in a 700R4 (and the truck will be for the wife), so the cam will be toned down, allowing good vacuum.

[MrDude_1]

let us know how it works out for you.. ive been considering buying one of those brackets.. they're already setup with the proper pattern and pedal ratio so i can just bolt on a hydroboost and stock S10 master cyl.

[DransportGarage]

Will do, MrDude. I'm going to order it now. Just for background, I'm installing a Fatman Fabrications front end, and I'm in the process of boxing the frame. I need the brake unit to be sure it's mountable in a reasonable fashion.

[whid]

price sure is right....I gave almost almost $600.00 for my set up from MP Brakes....had an issue and they could have cared less about trying to help.....never again.........whid

[itstheshu]

Here is a link to were I got mine. Price was right but did take some customizing. They were great to work with. www.americanclassic.com/

[LEEVON]

I got one like that from Ebay, can't tell any difference between that and the CPP unit. As far as the brackets are concerned they're identical. The booster and m/c might be a lesser quality, not sure but I paid less than $200 for a 47-53 underfloor unit with 2 residual valves.

[DransportGarage]

This is interesting... I bought the unit from AutoAccessories4U4Less (La Porte City, IA), but was billed by Gearhead Enterprises (Hudson, IA, also Googles as Davenport, IA). Apparently they are also "RodPartsDealer" ("Midwest"), according to some Google info. These companies appear to be competing on Ebay, but they're apparently under the same management. Ebay feedback is 99.2%, 99% and 98.7%, respectively.

Anyway, I got an email within 2 hours that my item shipped. Auto tracking is provided, and Fedex tells me it's already in Chicago. Should receive in 5 days, Tues Dec 14th. We'll see...

[Russell Ashley]

Originally Posted by whid

price sure is right....I gave almost almost $600.00 for my set up from MP Brakes....had an issue and they could have cared less about trying to help.....never again.........whid

I had a similar experience with MP Brakes on my last truck. I paid way too much and the booster went bad. It had only 2K miles but a little past the warranty time limit. They weren't simpathetic at all, but did offer to sell me a new one at full price. I doubt I'll ever deal with them again.

[justplainray]

the only down side I can see is that the master cylinder will no longer line-up with the access hole in the floor.

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by justplainray

the only down side I can see is that the master cylinder will no longer line-up with the access hole in the floor.

Really? I thought that was the whole idea of having the pedal in that configuration. It really doesn't matter to me, but I'm surprised.

[entourageguy]

simular to the one I have in my truck. Might run into a problem with the pedal arm lining up with the original hole in the floor. Also the fill hole probably won't be of any use either. The dual 7" booster should be plenty for the truck. Bit of a pain for brake work but I just used a squeeze bottle with a bit of clear line to fill the rersevoir. One of those small mirrors on an extension works great for checking the fluid level.

[whid]

i bought a generic stainless door for my fuel access in the bed from Bow Tie Bits...was only $15.00...I plan on getting another to access my master cyclinder.............whid

[entourageguy]

guess it depends on the seat placement as well.

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by entourageguy

... Might run into a problem with the pedal arm lining up with the original hole in the floor....

One more patch in this swiss-cheese floor won't matter much, but thanks for the warning!

Originally Posted by entourageguy

...Also the fill hole probably won't be of any use either...

Guaranteed. I will fab a flip-door if the seat lets me, and cover it with carpet.

And here's a couple of pics of the frame surgery to show what's going on now (boxing the frames and stuffing in the IFS). Oh, and if anyone is doing this and decides to weld up the unused holes, I counted 93 of them forward of the front u-joint, and I'm sure I missed counting a few!

[DransportGarage]

My booster/MC came 2 hours ago. The snow is shoveled, so here goes:

In spite of miserable packing (that resulted in the bracket rattling around and holes through the box), all parts are miraculously in great shape.

SUMMARY: I am boxing my frame with 1/8" plate. If I space the bracket 3/8" from the boxing plate, and move the unit 3-3/8" forward from the original position, I will be able to use the original hole in the floorboard. (Do your own measurements, but I'm convinced you can use the original hole. Your dimensions may vary slightly.)

NOTES:
1) My truck is a '55 3100 2nd Series (shortbed).

2) Because of the mods required as stated above, I consider this to be a universal kit.

3) With the mods described above, the crossmember interference problem recently discussed on this board may be lessened.

4) Bringing the unit 3-3/8" forward will reduce the amount that the pedal sticks into the passenger compartment, but this may be a good thing considering the brakes will now be power. There is a rod adjustment (and the rod could even be lengthened) if this presents a problem.


DETAILS:
1) My original master cylinder bracket mounts the original master cylinder 1-5/8" from the inside edge of the frame.

2) My old pedal centerline is 2-5/8" from the inside edge of the frame.

3) The new pedal, if mounted on the original master cylinder bracket, is 3-3/4" from the inside edge of the frame.

4) If I just bolt the new unit to this bracket, the pedal will be 1-1/8" closer to the gas pedal than the original, and will require a new hole through the floorboard about 3" lower than the old one. (You trigonometry experts can figure out exactly how much lower.)

CONCLUSION: Overall, this appears to be a cost-effective way for me to solve the problem. I'd buy it again, assuming the components work. (You won't find any "Delco Moraine" stamps on anything, unless they're in Chinese!)

Good Luck to All,
Bob

[entourageguy]

what are you running for exhaust? On my truck with the 3/4 length headers the brake arm came very close to the pipe.Moving my brake assembly ahead 3 inches would be hitting.

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by entourageguy

what are you running for exhaust? On my truck with the 3/4 length headers the brake arm came very close to the pipe.Moving my brake assembly ahead 3 inches would be hitting.

I bought a set of used Hooker Headers at a swap meet ($40), but that's all I have right now. Have you mounted your MC on the original bracket, or have you moved it nearer the frame?