Any Resto Body Techs out there?

[sanchtech]

I got a couple questions about doing a hinge pillar patch.
I'm currently doing an inner/outer hinge pocket and hinge pillar patch replacement. I cut out the panels but didn't brace the pillar. I'm kind of worried now. Should I have braced it?

I also measured the hinge mounting holes(captive nut)from the step wall to the nut for side to side measurements and a pillar bodyline to the nut for the up and down measurement. Should I feel safe welding this in without hanging a door to check fit? I never done one of these and would love to hear from someone that has done a few of these before. Thanks ahead of time.

[55metalmonkey]

not a body tech... well any more,
As a rule of thumb I always mock up what I'm doing as if I was putting it together and shim to get it to fit and gaps the way I want it to fit when I'm done. It takes more time but you know it's going to fit right. then I tack it, double & triple check everything, then weld it solid. sometimes it seems like a useless step when you could have just measured it but I rarely trust measurements and have found that multiple small errors (that I can deal with individualy) tend to compound over the lenght of the vehicle. a tape measure/ ruler is a great tool but it's no substitute for the actual piece that will be in place when it's done.
Nothing worse than going from a sence of accompishment in a job well done to "ohhh crap" because you thought it was pretty close.

As for bracing it you likely didn't shift anything these cabs are pretty ridgid and are a completely different animal than.. lets say a 60's covertable unibody. If it was me I would set the door and shim for the ideal gap, do the inner with few well placed tacks, then the outer. set the hinge, pull the shims and check for sagging. if it's all good weld solid. if not adjust it a bit taking into account the weight of the door.
This is just my thoughts on it though, others might have a different take.

[OrrieG]

If the inside rounded edge, bottom flange and outside edge at the bottom are aligning (appears in your photo they are) you will be ok. The hinges have enough play to make up for any small difference. My step was good so I cut off the bottom flange and just fillet welded it to the step. If the floor, step and rest of the jamb are solid, no cross bracing is necessary. If you are replacing the whole step or floor then I would brace to keep the front and back of the cab in alignment. I also did one side at a time and used the other for check measurements.

[sanchtech]

thanks for the replies, guys. The whole step will be replaced as well and will be braced. Thanks again.

[jsmithbm]

what do you call those copper thingys? looks like they take the place of screws to hold the part your welding in place. Where did ya get em? looks like you are doing good on the welding

[sanchtech]

They're cleco fasteners. You just need a 1/8" hole and cleco pliers and the clecos. very convenient. They're used in the aviation industry but are good for fitting up panels and much quicker than screws. I got mine off of ebay but eastwood carries them. They're pretty cheap. $7 for the pliers and $5-$10 for a bag of clecos.

[jsmithbm]

thats it, i knew i had seen them before but just couldnt remember their name. Thanks

[sanchtech]

Once you use them you instantly fall in love. I believe each cleco can hold 20 lbs so it holds stuff pretty tight to the surface, or more than you'd expect.