Lowering on the cheap - 68 SWB C10 6 lug drum

[CC69Rat]

I recently purchased a 68 SWB stepside. It is 6 lug drum brakes, w/coils in the rear. How is the best way to lower it on the cheap? Is there such a thing as a dropped spindle for drum brakes?

This is just a beater truck / shop / patina truck. I would like to do 5 lug disk but I don't want to drop the cash for the booster, lines, rotors, etc. etc. I don't really want to just cut the coils .. I'd like to find some dropped spindles for it. I have some coils and adj. panhard bar ready to go for the rear I just need to figure out something on the front.

I'm planning steelies, dogdish caps and whitewalls once I can get it down a little bit. Your thoughts?

[SCOTI]

They do not make dropped spindles for drum brake applications.

[N2TRUX]

There are no drop spindles for drum brakes, so I suggest converting them. Find a 73-87 donor and get everything you need for a small amount of cash.

Beyond that, you can Jeep springs in the rear and cut a coil up front.

[CC69Rat]

One Coil = 2 inches? I found some 4" drop coils for the back, but prob not the best idea to cut more than one coil.. Right? I have seen lowered 6 lug trucks so I'm guessing they prob cut the coils (?)
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[lolife99]

The rear coils can't be cut.
ECE sells up to a 6" rear drop spring.
Most other vendors sell up to a 5" drop spring.
Spindles are your best option for dropping the front of the truck.
Many companies make 6-lug rotors, if you decide to keep it 6-lug.
Just remember the oem steel "hubcap style" wheel built prior to 1971 will not work with dics brakes up front.

[lolife99]

Either way,... 5-lug or 6-lug,... you will need different front wheels.
71-87 4x4 steelies will work fine for the disc brake conversion.
And they are usually cheap!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Either way,... 5-lug or 6-lug,... you will need different front wheels.
71-87 4x4 steelies will work fine for the disc brake conversion.
And they are usually cheap!

The 71-87 6-lug 4x4 plain steelies are harder to find vs. 71-87 6-lug 4x4 ralleys. The ralleys are usually cheaper too.

[bagged68chevy]

Ive cut two rounds off of fronts and thats roughly 4"

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by bagged68chevy

Ive cut two rounds off of fronts and thats roughly 4"

Roughly being the key word. You can cut more than one coil off the front, but its not recommended if you want to retain a decent ride.

[lolife99]

2 full coils cut,... make it really tough to get the alignment back.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lolife99

2 full coils cut,... make it really tough to get the alignment back.

And upon full extension (or close to it) the springs will/can fall out!.

[Shane]

yup, yup, and yup ... you can technically cut more than one full round out of a front coil, but I think you will find in the end it's just not worth the hassle.

[bagged68chevy]

Its just fine my dads truck has been that way for 15 years

[JON70CST]

Has anyone heard of Canuck Motorsports springs? They have a kit on ebay that has 3" front and 4" rear lowering coils. They are $200.95 US... worth a try?

[cdowns]

cheapo lowering nobody ever talks about centering the rear end shock angles for optimum damping and the alignment problems

theres more to it than 4springs

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by cdowns

cheapo lowering nobody ever talks about centering the rear end shock angles for optimum damping and the alignment problems

theres more to it than 4springs

x2

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bagged68chevy

Its just fine my dads truck has been that way for 15 years

What's just fine?

Cutting 2 coils off will make the remaining spring short enough that they can/will allow the springs to come out under the right circumstances. I know this because my buddy lowered his truck using this method. He had to exit the highway abrupty one day & there was a large enough dip in the exit ramp that the front suspension extended to the point the coils unseated & fell out. To say it was a hazard to ourselves & others on the road is an understatement. This is one of the reasons my 67 was never dropped until I could do it right.

[Shane]

Originally Posted by bagged68chevy

Its just fine my dads truck has been that way for 15 years

technically, you can steer your truck with your feet ... but that don't make it a good idea.

[CC69Rat]

Hahahaaaa..

[CC69Rat]

I found a complete 71 disc conversion with rotors, spindles, calipers, etc. Including a 5 lug 3:73 rear for $175 on CL. I think it would be worth it (added value to the truck) to put $150-$175 into the parts.. add my labor and get $500 (?) more for the truck?

I'm trying to literally drag this truck out of the woods and bring it back on the road just as a good, solid, dependable shop truck. The idea being built on the cheap, looking good and low / lean and re-sell it for a little profit.

I'm going to try to go with the conversion so I have options for wheels, drop spindles, etc. I agree. I don't like the idea of cutting coils.

Thanks for all your help. I knew I couldn't cut the rear coils but I worded it so it may read that way. My bad. I would have just cut the front. I'm prob either going to try this CL route or just leave it be.

[Shane]

get the '71 rear end but do some research on a later model ('73-'87) front end if low-buck is your ultimate goal ... the later model front end replacement parts are more plentiful / and less expensive and can be purchased at most any local chain store.

[writerDennis]

Although these two articles do not discuss lowering, they may have some good advice or new info for you.

<http://www.hot-rod-garage.com/articles/drum-to-disc-brake-upgrade.cfm>

<http://www.hot-rod-garage.com/articles/drilling-rear-axle1.cfm>

[oldblue1968chevy]

jeep springs cut a coil and a half

that should get you low and cheap. heck you can even make your own relocators if the rides that bad lol

[Rreemo]

Just a tip that I thought I'd pass along...something I learned from experimenting with existing garage parts.

My old 68' had some CPP rear 5" coils in it at first, along with adjustable track bar and relocated shocks.....with the front setup (dropped spindles and coils)and 18/20 wheel combo it had a tad too much rake for my taste, but worse it rode like total crap.....even with the snubbers cut.

Upon rummaging through some shelves in the garage I realized that I had a set of CPP 3" dropped coils leftover from the rear of my 70' Chevelle (these were advertised as 3" Rear Drop for 68-72 Chevelle), and upon closer inspection also realized that they were exactly the same diameter with the same pigtail as the springs in the truck, and about the same height as the 5" truck spring removed sitting side-by-side on the floor.....difference being they were a little more losely wound than they truck springs and also I believe variable rate compared to the trucks fixed rate.

Nevertheless, I gave a whirl and they turned out to work perfect! Ended up dropping the rear of the truck exactly 1" more than the 5" truck springs, but the best part was that the ride was 100% improved....no more buckboarding in the rear and it rode fantasic!

Anyways...I thought some others might like to know this tip as well. I suspect the Chevelle springs wouldn't be ideal for hauling much, but my truck didn't carry anything more than an ice chest anyways on the weekends and a Christmas tree once a year.

[Jay W]

Hey guys, I just bought a 69 chevy. The PO said he lowered it 5"/6" but it has been done with coil only so I think he misled me. The truck rests on the front bump stop and about 1" above in the rear. The truck has been converted to 5X5 lugs I would like to change the front to a 3" coil and 2.5" spindle but am wondering what coil drop would result in resting on the bump stops? I believe he may have cut the front coils is there any easy way to determine this?