Rusty, crushy, but trysty.

[makman1297]

Tried putting in the axle shaft u-joint, total failure, never have i had such an issuw with a u-joint. I broke the new one installing it. I did manage to get the front driveshaft joint in and installed. I tried the t-case with and with out the spacers under it, to my suprise everything lines up better with the t-case dropped down. Will pick up a new joint in the morning and get that dr side back together.

[makman1297]

Well today went pretty good, picked up a new u-joint at the local car-quest, that guy always has what i need. I slid right in with no problems, guess the axle just didnt like advance u-joints. Put the dr side hub in, installed the new caliper, installed the dr side brake line, as well as the wheel spacer. I then finished up the sway bar bracket and got that done, think it will work good. I then decided to start on the exhaust system. I had some pieces bent at the local shop to go around the transfer case. I already had the rest of the system. I also had a box full from summit racing, it had a set of header buddies (dont use the gaskets, fit realy good), 02 bungs, glass pack mufflers, crossover tube, and tips. The system i had i picked up last year, it was a pre made 2 1/4 two wheel drive for header back. I had to cut and fit the pipes but it worked out, just need to get two hangers and two clamps to finish it up. The area on the pass side where it runs by the fuel pump i will be wrapping the pipe in header wrap put putting a sheet metal shield in between to cut down on the heat, i think that will be good.

[makman1297]

A couple more.

[gshibler]

Wow thats serious progress. I hate doing exhaustwork. Yours looks great. I take it the swaybar was missing some parts for the lift. Now I know what you were talking about when you wanted the drop downpieces when I picked it up for you.

[makman1297]

Gabriel, exhaust has never really bothered me, kinda of fun setting up, but a pain in doing all those welds. I was originally talking about the drop steering arm, but after removing the fatory one i dont think i would be very easy to reuse one. I didnt really think about the sway bar until i was reading another thread and then realized it would not line up.

[makman1297]

Ordered the parking brake cables, drag link joint, got the header wrap and clamps, might be able to finish up the exhaust tomorrow.

[makman1297]

Today i got the exhaust done except the tips. It fought me pretty good, thought i had it done then realized i didnt have the spare in there, so in went the spare and then i had to do some more adjustments to clear everything. I wrapped the rh pipe with header wrap next to the fuel pump and then under the transfer case. I still need to make a heat shield. I also out the tranny shifter linkage in and found that needed a little finess to work right, had to cut and weld it shorter, but it clears now. I also put in the O2 sensors, look like they will clear every thing as well.

[makman1297]

Had to order a new fuel pressure regulator sping, the old one was rusted into two pieces. I also put in a different starter i had, its got the shorter style solenoid on it hopefully the exhaust wont be as hard on it.

[butch86]

just courious are you going to make a heat shield of some sort around the spare tire? just looks like the exaust is very close. looks great. had to do the same thing to my trans shifter. the 700r4 has a different detent and slightly different setup i had to cut and reweld the bracket to get my shifter indicator to line up right.

[makman1297]

I was just thinking of using some exhuast wrap, i have enough left over i just half to get some more of the clamps for it. I got at least 1.5 inches, but not sure how hot the exhaust will be back there.

[makman1297]

used up the rest of the exhaust wrap, got it around the tires and by the fuel valve. I also installed the lh parking brake cable, started installing the plug wires, and finished up pulling out the wiring from the cab.

[makman1297]

Got the rh parking brake cable in then i started stripping the rotted metal off the cab. I cut out the rh cab corner, rocker, floor, kick panel, and also cut out the center hump and put in the 4wd one, just have some to screws in it for alignement i will be welding it in later.

[makman1297]

I finished stripping the old rot off and started installing the new cab brace, had to bend it a bit to fit better.

[bowtieguy79]

How much trimming did you have to do on those newer body wheels to fit over your hubs? Be nice to be able to run those types of wheels with out spacers.

[makman1297]

It wasnt alot of material, the wheels were around 3.1" i think and the hubs were 3.51. I just brought the hub and wheels to a local machine shop that has a big lathe and he bored them out to fit the hubs. I am not sure what i am going to use for center caps on the front yet, will see when i get the wheels on. The spacers are 1.5 thick and that pretty much puts it to the stock location.

[bowtieguy79]

Good info! Thank you.
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[makman1297]

Worked on fitting some more panels, just screwing them with self tappers to make sure everything lines up before i weld them. So far the rh kick panel is being a pain does not want to line up quite right but i will make it work. Put the cab support in place had to tap down the top it was sticking up higher than the cab brace. I started taking the floor apart that i cut out of the burban, the floor and square support under the floor are really good so that will save me buying a new floor pan. I also started putting the ends on the plug wires there a set of MSD cut to length, they seem to be pretty good.

[gshibler]

Are you going to hang the door before you weld everything to make sure it all lines up or is there some other reference you have. I would think with the door pillar cut loose on the bottom you could run into trouble on the alignment.

[makman1297]

Got some more fitting done, with the kick panel acting as it was i opted to use the one still attached to the floor pan. The section from the floor down with the tab for the fender was in really good shape. I cut my new panel to go from the floor up to the vent, everything aligned better this way. Had some issues with the floor ended up making a few extra cuts and will still need to weld in a few small patch pieces, but overall think it will work just fine considering. I also got the cab support tacked in. Supprising all the original burban panels were coated in galzanized, actully kept most of it solid Gabriel i will be putting the door back on for fitting of the rocker and cab corner, i really dont know of any other way to do it, thats is if you want your door to fit.

[gshibler]

Exactly what I was thinking, a REAL custom look, no doors needed. Just spray the inside of the cab with rhino liner real good and no need to keep it weatherproof at all. What I was refering to was wether you had to mount the door before you welded up the floor but apparently not since you already have it tacked in. I guess the door post position was still pretty solid and not moving in and out.

[makman1297]

Yeah i know what you mean, the door post was really soild, could not move it more than maybe a 1/8 inch. I tacked the cab frame in the same area that the original was in, the floor pan slid in overlapping the original dents, which helps align it, and the support just slipped in, so everything looks to be in the correct position. The real challange is the corner which can change the gap at the back of the door and the rocker which can be adjusted to match the door by quite a bit. I will stay tacked until i get the rocker and corner in, then if something is off i can cut some tacks and move it, but the other side i did pretty much the same way and everything fit pretty good.

[makman1297]

As far as the undercoating i am getting the U-pol bedliner gun kit, once i finish installing the panels it will tip the cab back. Then i finish up the welds without burning myself, seal it and then coat the bottom of the cab with bed liner material. That should give it a good water proof coating and cut down on the heat and noise.

[makman1297]

Well today worked on the sheet metal some more, made some patches and then intalled the door. Once i got the door installed started putting in the rh rocker, what a pain, that thing did not want to line up anywhere. The front didnt fit right, then it looked twisted, and then it acted like the door gap was too wide by about a 1/4 inch. I then thought that maybe the front pilar had moved and was throwing it out, but all the metal i put in the front seemed to line up pretty good and the pillar felt solid. I then took two measurements at door jamb switch the the back and then one right below the bottom hinge to the back, suprisingly the seemed to be exactly the same as the dr side, so either i messed both sides up exactly the same or its the correct size. I had read earlier that using the 81 and up doors would make you gaps bigger, that is the 81 and up doors are 1/4" narrower, never measeure it but i guess i will have bigger gaps then.

Anyways i ended up cutting some reliefs in the rocker panel and adjusting, weding hammering and eventually got it to fit, then i got the inner cab corner in, and started tacking the cab corner, all in all i think i will be good.

[makman1297]

And some more.

[gshibler]

I see in the last photo Yeungling lager finally made an appearance. I would recognize that bottle anywhere. That must have been what made it all come together in the end! What a pain, I take it the aftermarket panels are only so close and after that time to have some beers. Looking good brother.