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07-13-2011, 10:28 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Help a noob pick intake manifold & headers
I'm rebuilding my first 327 for my 67 c20. I've decided to go vortec on the heads, but I can't decide which intake manifold to go with. I've decided on these heads, and my carb is an Edelbrock 650cfm 4 brl. It may not make much of a difference, but I wasn't sure whether to go with the Summit Racing Stage 3 manifold or the Edelbrock 2116. There are also a ton of header options, and I just don't even know where to start. I'm not concerned with the finish on anything, just performance. Thanks for any suggestions guys. I've finally got a little money together, and a great place to put it all together, and I can't wait to get started.
Also wanted to add that as far as the headers go, this truck is supposed to be a little rough around the edges and loud as $%^!. It's flat black, body's a tiny bit dinged up, and I want headers and exhaust that are going to improve performance and make noise. Ya know... the basics. Thanks guys! Last edited by Spassmacher; 07-13-2011 at 10:35 PM. Reason: Needed to clarify |
07-15-2011, 03:38 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Maple Valley, WA
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Re: Help a noob pick intake manifold & headers
Get the 2116 and header primary pipe size of 1 5/8". Ceramic coated headers for us here in rain country and unless your swapping cams to stick to a 2 1/2" exhaust with whichever mufflers you want. I like Flowmaster but will end up with Borla XR1's for me.
You can just google flowmaster or borla and a few others then look for sound clips of their products to see how loud is loud enough for you. |
07-15-2011, 10:52 AM | #3 |
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Re: Help a noob pick intake manifold & headers
I would go with a basic dual plane intake. Unless your compression is going to be high and your going to on the ragged edge of detonation, you might want to give a dual plane Air Gap style manifold a try to keep you intake charge cooler.
I agree with Dan on the headers and exhaust. Ceramic is worth it and dont go big on the pipe diameter. 2 1/2" is all you need. |
07-15-2011, 05:05 PM | #4 |
Grandpa in the rustmobile...
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Spokane WA/Viola TN
Posts: 11,422
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Re: Help a noob pick intake manifold & headers
spassmacher-im running those same heads dart actually makes em.
Im runin 3spd manual trans and 373 rearend im using the thumper 279 cam, not crazy about it. You can run up to .520 lift with those heads unlike the GM vortec heads. What cam are YOU going to run? Whats your setup (gears tras etc?)
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John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 |
07-15-2011, 05:50 PM | #5 |
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Re: Help a noob pick intake manifold & headers
put a blower on it and move on
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is it fast ? it has a lighting bolt donut? B___H please, I can remove 90% of your so called "beauty" with a kleenex |
07-15-2011, 06:10 PM | #6 |
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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Re: Help a noob pick intake manifold & headers
I'm having a pro do the machine work and internal stuff like the cam for me. I'm not quite prepared to get into that myself yet. Next time. So I'm not sure what cam setup I'm going with. I don't want to get too crazy, the truck has to be reliable and usable still. Kind of aiming for moderately upgraded, not full on race engine or anything. Hard to explain without knowing enough if the lingo.
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07-15-2011, 06:27 PM | #7 |
Grandpa in the rustmobile...
Join Date: Nov 2008
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Re: Help a noob pick intake manifold & headers
I understand thats what I want...
next time you talk tohim find out im interested aswell
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John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 |
07-15-2011, 08:04 PM | #8 | ||
"I ain't nobody, dork."
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Re: Help a noob pick intake manifold & headers
Spend the cash on an Edelbrock Performer or Performer RPM. I've seen too many "off brand" manifolds that are garbage.
Gary
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'cuz chicks dig scars... My 1972 GMC 1500 Super Custom (Creeping Death) "long term" build thread. The Rebuild of Creeping Death after the wreck Quote:
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07-16-2011, 12:59 AM | #9 |
60-66 Nut
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
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Re: Help a noob pick intake manifold & headers
I agree.
I would recommend the Vortec Performer RPM. The reason is they have provisions to run engine coolant under the carb to keep it warm in the cold/damp weather. IMO this would be an advantage on a DD where you are located. If you find you don't need the warmth for the carb, you can just screw a couple of pipe plugs in the ports.
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07-16-2011, 01:27 AM | #10 |
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Re: Help a noob pick intake manifold & headers
I will also agree with staying away from the Summit brand intake. Spend the money on the Performer RPM, it is a much higher quality part and will deliver years (or decades) of reliable service and it is perfect for a daily driver that is warmed over.
As far as headers I have these on my '65 and they work. They have 2.5" collectors and 1 5/8" primary tubes and are all you will need. I did find that in my application I had to dimple one tube for the clutch linkage and use 1" header bolts to eliminate them backing out and causing leaks. I have had them on the truck for over 100K and 16 years with no regrets. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-2452HKR/ I don't have any experience with Edelbrock carbs but 650cfm is about as big as I would use. |
07-16-2011, 09:14 AM | #11 |
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Join Date: May 2008
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Re: Help a noob pick intake manifold & headers
Summit doesn't 'make' anything,, Surgi gets the low bid from whatever offshore, patent infringing POS that will make a clone of a 'real' part,,, and put two nickles in his pocket. The guy is a shrewd business man, I'll give him that. But my money will go for the USA made part if possible (the $100 you save worth costing someone their job???)
Think about what your usable RPM range will be and select parts accordingly. How often do you expect to be spinning your motor to 6500rpm?????? Yeah that's what I thought!!,, why buy a intake or exhaust that is intended to improve high rpm performance if 4500 is the most you will probably ever see. And cruising at 1500-1800 is more the 'norm' of daily driving. Your 327 will be a bit lacking in real low RPM , but by the same token you will undoubetedly run a cam that is suited to pushing a heavy truck around on the streets. Don't get carried away,, SMALL cam and SMALL tube headers will serve you well here. More is not always better. That 2116 is intended for "idle to 5500" rpm... sounds just right to me! For headers I'd HIGHGLY suggest something like Headmans 'Torque-Step' headers. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HE...%7cYear%7c1970 But that's just my 2¢,,, might be worth 1/2 of that
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Still playin with trucks, even at my age! When you're dead, it's only a problem for the people around you, because you don't know you're dead. .....It's kinda the same when your STUPID. I just did my taxes and reviewed my SS statement. Thanks to the current administration it looks like I will only have to work till noon on the day of my funeral. |
07-16-2011, 10:55 AM | #12 |
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Location: San Carlos, Ca.
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Re: Help a noob pick intake manifold & headers
[QUOTE=Marv D;4793098]Summit doesn't 'make' anything,, Surgi gets the low bid from whatever offshore, patent infringing POS that will make a clone of a 'real' part,,, and put two nickles in his pocket. The guy is a shrewd business man, I'll give him that. But my money will go for the USA made part if possible (the $100 you save worth costing someone their job???)
I 2nd that! It cost a couple extra bucks but I got the Edelbrock Performer on the 396. It runs great, doesn't leak and is really well made. The engine pulls harder than a 396 should and best of all...It has a BIG stamp that says "MADE IN USA" that I can see everytime I open the hood. I know it's apples to oranges but one thing applies to both - usually you get what you pay for.
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1967, 327, c20, headers, manifold |
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