1985 Chevy C10 issues

[jdheff1982]

Hello, first time poster.

Bought this '85 C10 the other. Check my sig for motor mods.

Anyways, like any older vehicle, this truck has its share of issues. Leaky tranny pan, leaky timing chain cover, and a fuel gauge that reads incorrectly. The first 2 are not priority as the leak very little. However, being able to know how much fuel I have is a must. The fuel gauge (according to previous owner) shows full @ 5 o'clock position and empty @ around the 3/4 mark. What do I need to do to get this gauge to read proper? the truck originally had 2 gas tanks, but has been converted to use 1. I am thinking the sending unit needs replacing, but I have no experience in this area. If anyone can help me fix this, I'd be really appreciative!

Thanks in advance!

[motornut]

could be the float bent weird
I"ve done it to leave more gas in the tank when it reads empty
but it dosn't go like that
i bend the float arm up about an inch.....less chance of a frozen gas line up here
it just dosn't go over the "full" mark......and you will find your lowest spot it will read on the empty and still have 1/8 tank or so of gas

[jdheff1982]

Will i need to drop the gas tank to replace the fuel sender unit? I have read where it can be accessed behind driver seat. Is the C10 fleetside setup like that? Thanks.

[soultosoul13]

Originally Posted by jdheff1982

Hello, first time poster.

Bought this '85 C10 the other. Check my sig for motor mods.

Anyways, like any older vehicle, this truck has its share of issues. Leaky tranny pan, leaky timing chain cover, and a fuel gauge that reads incorrectly. The first 2 are not priority as the leak very little. However, being able to know how much fuel I have is a must. The fuel gauge (according to previous owner) shows full @ 5 o'clock position and empty @ around the 3/4 mark. What do I need to do to get this gauge to read proper? the truck originally had 2 gas tanks, but has been converted to use 1. I am thinking the sending unit needs replacing, but I have no experience in this area. If anyone can help me fix this, I'd be really appreciative!

Thanks in advance!

i have the same gauge problem with my 85. i havent replaced the sending unit yet, but from what ive heard that should fix it...

[old Rusty C10]

sometimes its just the ground on the fuel tank so check that before you go replacing senders

[Goldfinger]

for the leaky pan get it flushed and replace the seal. on the fuel gauge. check and make sure its correctly grounded. if you have to do anything with the gas tank take off the bed instead of trying to work from below you will be much happier when working on it.

[motornut]

do you know if it's sat a while?
tank might be gunky dropping wouldn't be a bad idea
i don't know if you can get it out,without removal
I've checked sending units by grounding the sending unit wire to the tank, to the frame
open or off is over full/grounded would read empty

[jdheff1982]

Originally Posted by Goldfinger

for the leaky pan get it flushed and replace the seal. on the fuel gauge. check and make sure its correctly grounded. if you have to do anything with the gas tank take off the bed instead of trying to work from below you will be much happier when working on it.

Good idea!

[jdheff1982]

Originally Posted by Goldfinger

for the leaky pan get it flushed and replace the seal. on the fuel gauge. check and make sure its correctly grounded. if you have to do anything with the gas tank take off the bed instead of trying to work from below you will be much happier when working on it.

The truck is in the shop as I type getting the tranny pan fixed. They said the bolts were over tightened. They also discovered the oil pan is leaking from the rear. So, I decided to have them replace timing chain gasket, oil pan gasket, tranny pan gasket and replace front shocks.

Chunk of money being spent, but I don't have a proper work area or tools. Not too mention, I don't get to suffer in the 100 degree heat.

EDIT: I'll check the grounding wire when I get a chance. I hope that's all it is.
EDIT: what end of the gas tank should I start looking for the ground wire? Thanks.

[Goldfinger]

it will treat you well on the long run

[jdheff1982]

Wow, what a day. Finally got my truck back. I love getting things done, but hate finding more.

A couple easy things I need to do soon are re-route the power cables going to the starter. As of now, they are laying really close to the header. I also need to work with the spark plug wires and move them away from the headers too.

Not so easy fix is the whole steering system needs replacing. There is some slack when wiggling the tires. I don't think it is mandatory, just near top of the list. Plus the high pressure hose for the PS pump is leaking.

My top priority now is to try and fix the fuel gauge. Since my last fill up on Tuesday, the needle hangs past full, but drops some when power is off. The truck has 1 tank on driver side. Proximity, where should I find the sender grounding cable?

Does anyone have any suggestions of a make-shift support I could fashion for the PS pump bracket? There isn't one there and the pump vibrates like hell and screams. I'm gonna hit up a salvage yard or 2 tomorrow see if I can find what I need.

I believe that is all for now.

[Goldfinger]

power steering pumps are common to start to go and to install new steering gears will improve safety and drivability. on the start wires you can buy cable anchors that fit in the holes predrilled into the frame. for the plug wires aim them so they go underneath the headers under the aluminum heat shields.

[jdheff1982]

Originally Posted by Goldfinger

power steering pumps are common to start to go and to install new steering gears will improve safety and drivability. on the start wires you can buy cable anchors that fit in the holes predrilled into the frame. for the plug wires aim them so they go underneath the headers under the aluminum heat shields.

I think the PS pump is still good, just the bracket vibrates so bad it puts stress on the internals. Gonna go hit up a salvage yard or 2 today.

That's a good idea for the starter wires. I need to do something. I am not sure if they are grounding or what, but my battery doesn't hold a charge even tho it has been tested good. It was recharged @ Auto Zone on Wednesday and is beginning to die again. Starter is sounding weak at initial crank. Starter is new, replaced on Wednesday while battery was being charged.

With the mods listed in my sig, where would be a good place to start for timing? The stock 6 to 8 degrees? I'm thinking that the timing isn't quite right, making it hard to start the motor.

The headers do not have heat shields since they are aftermarket. I have thought about wrapping them in heat tape to redirect the heat produced by the headers.

[Goldfinger]

check and make sure your starter hasn't loosened itself that has caused hard starting for me in the past. heat tape sounds like a good idea. also keep the stock timing unless you need it otherwise

[jdheff1982]

Originally Posted by Goldfinger

check and make sure your starter hasn't loosened itself that has caused hard starting for me in the past. heat tape sounds like a good idea. also keep the stock timing unless you need it otherwise

I have hooker headers installed. From what I can remember, it's 4 pipes going to 3 into the collector. Could be wrong. Do I need to wrap each individual pipe or can I wrap the entire header at once? Also, I am not entirely sure how old the exhaust system is, but the headers and pipes are rusty and flakey. Prolly due to replace them sometime in the near future. If only I could find a shop that worked on true duel exhaust systems w/o cats....

I'm prolly gonna need to remove the starter again anyways so I can relocate the wires. For reasons unknown, whoever decided to have the wires mount on the front of the starter needs a swift kick in the rear...

Can't wait to get past all this so I can actually enjoy the truck!

[Goldfinger]

people willing to do true duals are rare. I was lucky enough to do welding and fabrication classes. it can be done by ones self easily. for the solenoid on the starter i hate that. some have used fords remote type solenoid

[jdheff1982]

Goldfinger, just lettin ya know you have been really good with the help! Thank you!

Something else I need to fix today is the wiper motor. When I tried it out, it ran SLOW. The wiper control does not have intermittent settings. Is this a switch problem or motor problem? Thanks!

[Goldfinger]

check the ground but it may be be a motor problem. was there any lubrication on the window to hinder speed?

[jdheff1982]

Originally Posted by Goldfinger

check the ground but it may be be a motor problem. was there any lubrication on the window to hinder speed?

No lube on window. It just runs slow no matter what setting the wiper control is on.

[jdheff1982]

Ok, so the truck is jacked up so I can get under it. I cannot fund any wires comung from the gas tank. i can barely see the outlet pipes. Is there a particular area i need to look fir the grounding cable?
Posted via Mobile Device

[jdheff1982]

Ok, I found 4 wires coming from the gas tank going to the tank switch. 2 pinks, 1 dark green, and 1 green going to wire harness. I found an orange / black wire coming from harness going to nowhere. It had been cut from something. Any idea what it is for? Thanks.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Goldfinger]

my tank ground is a flat braided type wire that attaches to the frame. i'm sorry about the colors i cant tell what mine are from the years of grease dust and rot. but those wires almost sound like the harness for your tail lights which run along the inside the frame rails

[jdheff1982]

Originally Posted by Goldfinger

my tank ground is a flat braided type wire that attaches to the frame. i'm sorry about the colors i cant tell what mine are from the years of grease dust and rot. but those wires almost sound like the harness for your tail lights which run along the inside the frame rails

Oh, well, I don't have one of those. Does this strap simply attach to the gas tank and frame? Where on the tank would be best to mount a ground to?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Goldfinger]

around where the sender sits on the tank and connects to any area on the frame.

[jdheff1982]

Well, I had hoped my theory of just grounding the tank to the frame would resolve the issue, but it didn't. The sending unit is in an inaccessible area; so, I'll just deal with it later. The gas tank looks like it needs replacing anyways. I'll just take care of the grounding problem then.