who has installed a Kimbridge frame?

[Coupeguy2001]

I need some help with buying the right headers .
First I got some tight tubes block huggers that fit the ZZ4 crate motor, and they just didn't fit the frame.
Next I got some stainless headers and they didn't fit. The application was for a G body, but the steering shaft was in the way.

Now I have to sell some headers.....................

[meter swinger]

You have a kimbridge clip installed a take it? Looked at thier website but didnt see any 55-59 stuff. How do you like it?
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[Coupeguy2001]

It's a high quality piece, and is the easiest part of the swap. Unfortunately, I was in la la land thinking it was a direct replacement for the original frame. The engine is 3 inches forward of the original position, but nice though, it is in the same altitude in the frame. Headers are a B**** because RB's closed up and they used to sell the headers. I found some stainless headers on line, and since I posted last, I did some measuring and trial fitting. I am going to make some adapter plates so I can move the engine back 2 inches. The only drawback there is I have to use an electric fuel pump.
But the headers will fit if I have #1 tube modified and the mounting flange angle milled... If I move the engine back, my old headers will fit. But, they are ugly, and the stainless ones are polished and gleam like a new dime. (I know the penny adage, but they are not copper colored)
If I get the engine set back 2 inches, I may have to cut the drive shaft 2 inches. Luckily, I haven't drilled the frame for the trans mount.
If I push the engine back 1 inch, the drive shaft may fit and maybe I won't have to use an electric pump, I will just have to rotate the mechanical pump bottom half so I have more clearance on the bottom of the pump. And my old headers will still fit.
Moving the engine back 2 inches is good for the shifter. it will be in the optimum position.
But for the most part, the subframe looks pretty good with big wide tires and shiny new brake lines and power steering lines going back to an under floor hydroboost.

[meter swinger]

Got a build thread on it? Sounds intresting, i still havent done my front end yet. Maybe ill call these guys, dont see much info on there website as far as price or any pictures.
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[BShort]

I am thinking of getting the Kimbridge clip too, please post pics!!!

[Coupeguy2001]

look at page 12 of "show us your projects". Not a lot of detail, but there's a couple pics of the project as an outline. It shows you what I started with, and how it looks after.

[BShort]

Okay, nice pictures. I noticed you were able to use 5x5 rotors on the G-body spindles. I also want to do this because I have a nice set of wheels from a previous project I would like to be able to use. Could you explain how you were able to accomplish that? What spindles work? Astro? Caprice? Custom? Thanks in advance!

[Coupeguy2001]

SpeedwayMotors.com has some rotors that are used for dirt track racing that have these huge ugly lug studs that are drilled 5 on 5 for the "metric" G bodies.
What I did was buy them, pressed out the studs, bought new studs I could use at NAPA, grind down the diameter of the stud bases a little bit, and grind larger recesses in the rotors to fit the larger stud bases in the rotors and press in my new studs....
After that, you just use the G "metric" parts to complete your brake installation.
Calipers are $10 exchange at autozone and Speedway will sell you the proper bearings and seals to go with the rotors.
I think I spent $160 for two "racing" rotors,two inner bearings,two inner bearing cups,two outer bearings, two outer bearing cups, and two seals. The new lugs at NAPA were $14.
Not bad for a custom one-off installation.
As long as Speedway (Lincoln Neb.) stays in business, I can buy rotors. I might just get a second set and "pickle" them for later.
I bought a front frame stub from an 86 el camino with rotors, steering box, tie rods, spindles, calipers, dust shields,bearings, sway bars, idler arm, bolts and steering shaft for $200. All that, except the bearings, fit the Kimbridge frame stub. Couldn't use the rotors because they were 4.75 lug spacing.
Just a note,
The wheels were in too far and hit the ball joints and not wide enough. I bought 2" spacers for a jeep and installed them. It pushes the wheels out where they are supposed to be.
If you buy springs, use 1986 Buick regal springs with the "oldsmobile" 307 V8 with air conditioning or 78 firebird big block springs and cut to suit.
I also used the circular spring spacers in one coil on each spring in front to raise it up to where I wanted it.
Also, I used aluminum heads, aluminum water pump and aluminum bell housing with a smaller flywheel for a 10 inch clutch to lighten it up and a small diameter harmonic balancer so it would not sit so low.

[BShort]

Coupeguy, thank you so much. I have been trying to figure out how to do this and you have a proven method. I saved this infor for later. I am trying to get my truck in the weeds, so low doesn't bother me. I really appreciate you sharing the info, this is what these forums are all about!

[BShort]

One more question

When you say the wheels hit, was that on the Caprice wheels? I think they have some pretty deep backspacing? something to think about I guess. I believe my front wheels have 4.75" BS, and they are 18x8.5.

[BShort]

Is this the rotors you bought?
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1979-8...otor,3244.html

[Coupeguy2001]

1. Yes, there is a bit of backspacing on the wheels. They were in too deep.
Yours may or may not need the spacers.
2. Yup, that's the ones. I called their tech help line and they spec'd out the bearings I would need.
THey showed up 3 days later UPS.

[Coupeguy2001]

These wheels are 10.5 inches wide.
I used a 12 bolt rear end from a 73 chevy pickup and the wheels with 235/55/17 tires appear to be able to slide up into the fender wells without hitting, and no spacers, and have 1/4" clearance.

Your back spacing may not go in the rear wheel wells.