Engine paint question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Goldie80 · 10-28-2011, 03:58 PM

Hello, I am currently painting my engine. I used VHT high temp primer (2 coats) and have just put one coat of Chevy orage/red. There is an orage peel texture to the block and the head. I was so excited about getting my engine back and moving along with the project, I didn't even give the texture a second though until someone asked, "didn't you even sand it?" Should I be concerned with the texture? Can I sand after the first coat of color? Thanks for the feedback.

J.Cagle · 10-28-2011, 10:20 PM

Its probaly going to be a little textured bc of the casting I would think.

63MOUSE · 10-30-2011, 08:38 AM

unless it is strictly a show truck, put it together and enjoy it, looks good from here

theastronaut · 10-30-2011, 09:11 AM

Instead of sanding, I would try a red/maroon scuff pad to smooth the surface and get down in the "grain" of the casting texture. Sanding will just hit the high spots. Practice spraying paint on a junk part or cardboard; try to lay the paint on evenly with wet coats so that the paint is thick enough to flow together and smooth out. It took me 3 rattle cans to paint a 292 this way but the results were worth it.
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oem4me · 10-30-2011, 11:34 AM

Hmm, all of the rattle-can engine paints I've used don't require a primer and seem to flow pretty well if sprayed correctly. A simple trick that works well to boost pressure and make paint flow even better is to run hot water over the can for a bit just before spraying. The texture on the block is going to be there no matter what you do. If you are getting excessive orange peel on stuff such as the valve covers and other sheet metal, then I suggest your paint technique needs some more practice. I usually start with one very light tack coat, followed by at least two heavier wet coats.

**jocko** · 10-30-2011, 12:56 PM

yeah, i'm a little confused - are you saying you HAVE orange peel or that the texture of the block (normal for a casting) FEELS like orange peel?

If you actually have the op, then yes, there's a problem. If you just have rough texture, then that is perfectly normal, no need to sand it down (unless, as suggested, you're doing a show truck). The factory didn't sand squat, just squirt & go! And oem4me's advice is good to go - a light tack coat first is very important I think. If your first coat is heavy, you're in for some peeling and flaking.

sigshooter · 10-30-2011, 12:59 PM

Follow th direction on the can VERY closely. My Duplicolor high heat engine paint states, apply several light coats instead of one heavy coat. Allow 10 minutes of dry time between coats ( will be longer if temperature is low and humidity is high ) apply all coats within one hour of start. Wait one week after the initial hour to recoat.

I have learned the directions to be critical and there is very little deviation allowed, or you paint will seperate, lift, or bubble. giving you the orange peel look.

Vernski · 10-31-2011, 12:17 AM

Just start sanding it might take a few years but you'll get it smooth eventually. The guy who suggested sanding is either Goofy or Daffy Duck, really I've never heard of such a thing good luck with the sanding. Just paint it and be done with it...Vernski

T2vigil · 10-31-2011, 11:27 AM

I agree with Sig and Vern. IF you want body finish smooth break out the flapper wheels and grind the casting smooth - Show Truck. Use high fill primer and take your time. Don't know how long it will last but smooth and glossy it can be. On the other hand if it is truly orange peal - practice, practice, practice. I have never had OP with a rattle can that was excessive but I have had a lot of practice.

Rich 5150 69 · 10-31-2011, 11:39 AM

His block looks to as if it ( the paint ) fish eyed on him if you look in the bottom of the crank area, maybe had a little oil bleed thru the primer....

ol Curt · 10-31-2011, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich 5150 69

His block looks to as if it ( the paint ) fish eyed on him if you look in the bottom of the crank area, maybe had a little oil bleed thru the primer....

I agree... paint will do that also if youn dont allow a little time betweeen coats to let the solvents bleed off

T2vigil · 11-01-2011, 06:05 AM

If it is Fish-Eye my experience has been contaminates on the surface before paint is applied. Wash the bare block with soap and water and a scrub brush. Let dry and then laquer thinner so you Know there is no contaminates before priming. Metal is porus and will absorb moisture and oils.

Goldie80 · 11-02-2011, 10:50 AM

Thanks for all the feedback. Taking alook at it now, I am thinking that the lighting and the fact that the paint was still wet may have scared me a bit. I was taking the pic in the garage with a halogen lamp behind me. Take a look at it now and let me know what you think.

Goldie80 · 11-02-2011, 11:13 AM

Vernski, I like the way you think. That's pretty much exactly what my Dad said too. "Well, where's his freakin truck?!" to the guy who asked if I sanded it or not. LOL!

jimmydean · 11-02-2011, 11:22 AM

I think it looks great.

I bought some POR15 brush on engine paint on a dare. I painted my intake and was blown away at how good it looks. I won't get to the block for a while, but for brush on, I am happy.

No primer, 2 coats (takes FOREVER to dry)

Goldie80 · 11-02-2011, 12:56 PM

Jimmydean, yes looks really sharp! Very nice!

csa daddy · 11-02-2011, 01:10 PM

Don't put por 15 on nothing you don't want it on cause it's a bear if you want to take it off
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Vernski · 11-02-2011, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goldie80

Vernski, I like the way you think. That's pretty much exactly what my Dad said too. "Well, where's his freakin truck?!" to the guy who asked if I sanded it or not. LOL!

Hey Goldie Your block looks just fine, couldn't have done better myself good job. Some people are just full of

it, like they say everyone has an opinion. I love those in-lines though, what size is yours?...Vernski

Goldie80 · 11-02-2011, 04:37 PM

It's a 230. I just got it rebuilt and balanced. I have a Offenhauser dual intake and two carter weber carbs to bolt on and I got some Langdon cast iron headers too. I can't wait to see what it sounds like. I have some pics in the gallery. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...&ppuser=104648

Vernski · 11-02-2011, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goldie80

It's a 230. I just got it rebuilt and balanced. I have a Offenhauser dual intake and two carter weber carbs to bolt on and I got some Langdon cast iron headers too. I can't wait to see what it sounds like. I have some pics in the gallery. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...&ppuser=104648

Your motor should run real nice with the dual Weber's plus the Langdon headers, it will sound real sweet with Cherri bombs on it, if you want it not so loud put Smitty's on it it's music to the ear's. Mine is a 230 also in my GMC it has a Mercruiser boat cam, Cllifford 4v intake, Edelbrock 1404 carb with the Langdon headers. The cam idles smooth but has a wicked mid range and pulls like a tractor. The only thing I need now is a HEI witch will come as the money tree permits...Vernski

Vernski · 11-02-2011, 06:08 PM

Forgot to post my engine pic...vernski

Goldie80 · 11-03-2011, 12:13 AM

Vernski: Yes, I found myself having to prune the money tree a bit this year. Fortunately, my wife has a green thumb. This was her grandfather's truck. He bought it in '63 so she is fully onboard with the rebuild which makes things a little easier when asking for the checkbook. She is working on cleaning up the valve cover an side covers now. She is going to paint them with a black wrinkle paint.

Your rig looks real nice! The mercruiser cam sounds really cool. I will have to read more about that. How long have you had her? I was conflicted about changing the cam in ours. Wanted to stay close to stock for now though. Original plan was to make a bit of a sleeper. Just got the radiator redone over the weekend. Had the core replaced and an extra row added. Looks real good.

Vernski · 11-03-2011, 01:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goldie80

Vernski: Yes, I found myself having to prune the money tree a bit this year. Fortunately, my wife has a green thumb. This was her grandfather's truck. He bought it in '63 so she is fully onboard with the rebuild which makes things a little easier when asking for the checkbook. She is working on cleaning up the valve cover an side covers now. She is going to paint them with a black wrinkle paint.

Your rig looks real nice! The mercruiser cam sounds really cool. I will have to read more about that. How long have you had her? I was conflicted about changing the cam in ours. Wanted to stay close to stock for now though. Original plan was to make a bit of a sleeper. Just got the radiator redone over the weekend. Had the core replaced and an extra row added. Looks real good.

Sounds like you have a keeper both the truck and your wife. Cool history on the truck and that's worth allot. I've had my truck about 6 years now still allot of work to do I'm doing mine a little at a time as money permits...Vernski

http://www.marineparts.com/partspages/merc/merc5.htm

10-28-2011, 03:58 PM	#1
Goldie80 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Livermore, CA Posts: 26	Engine paint question Hello, I am currently painting my engine. I used VHT high temp primer (2 coats) and have just put one coat of Chevy orage/red. There is an orage peel texture to the block and the head. I was so excited about getting my engine back and moving along with the project, I didn't even give the texture a second though until someone asked, "didn't you even sand it?" Should I be concerned with the texture? Can I sand after the first coat of color? Thanks for the feedback. Attached Images

10-28-2011, 10:20 PM	#2
J.Cagle Registered User Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Dennis Kansas Posts: 335	Re: Engine paint question Its probaly going to be a little textured bc of the casting I would think. __________________ 1964 c-10 Long stepside, 230 I6 ,3spd, dealer add-on air.

10-30-2011, 08:38 AM	#3
63MOUSE Registered User Join Date: May 2011 Location: Glendale AZ Posts: 98	Re: Engine paint question unless it is strictly a show truck, put it together and enjoy it, looks good from here

10-30-2011, 09:11 AM	#4
theastronaut Registered User Join Date: May 2011 Location: Anderson SC Posts: 3,883	Re: Engine paint question Instead of sanding, I would try a red/maroon scuff pad to smooth the surface and get down in the "grain" of the casting texture. Sanding will just hit the high spots. Practice spraying paint on a junk part or cardboard; try to lay the paint on evenly with wet coats so that the paint is thick enough to flow together and smooth out. It took me 3 rattle cans to paint a 292 this way but the results were worth it. Posted via Mobile Device __________________ Project Goldilocks '66 C10 Short Fleet BBW Build '65 C10 Highly Detailed Stock Restoration Thread '78 Camaro Targa Roof Build '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work '66 F100 Full Rotisserie Restoration '40 Packard 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration How To Restore and Detail an Original Gauge Cluster How To Detail Sand Body Panels, Edges, Corners, Etc

10-30-2011, 11:34 AM	#5
oem4me Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Burbank CA Posts: 3,055	Re: Engine paint question Hmm, all of the rattle-can engine paints I've used don't require a primer and seem to flow pretty well if sprayed correctly. A simple trick that works well to boost pressure and make paint flow even better is to run hot water over the can for a bit just before spraying. The texture on the block is going to be there no matter what you do. If you are getting excessive orange peel on stuff such as the valve covers and other sheet metal, then I suggest your paint technique needs some more practice. I usually start with one very light tack coat, followed by at least two heavier wet coats.

10-30-2011, 12:56 PM	#6
jocko Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Godley, TX Posts: 17,962	Re: Engine paint question yeah, i'm a little confused - are you saying you HAVE orange peel or that the texture of the block (normal for a casting) FEELS like orange peel? If you actually have the op, then yes, there's a problem. If you just have rough texture, then that is perfectly normal, no need to sand it down (unless, as suggested, you're doing a show truck). The factory didn't sand squat, just squirt & go! And oem4me's advice is good to go - a light tack coat first is very important I think. If your first coat is heavy, you're in for some peeling and flaking.

10-30-2011, 12:59 PM	#7
sigshooter Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Tahlequah, Ok Posts: 1,235	Re: Engine paint question Follow th direction on the can VERY closely. My Duplicolor high heat engine paint states, apply several light coats instead of one heavy coat. Allow 10 minutes of dry time between coats ( will be longer if temperature is low and humidity is high ) apply all coats within one hour of start. Wait one week after the initial hour to recoat. I have learned the directions to be critical and there is very little deviation allowed, or you paint will seperate, lift, or bubble. giving you the orange peel look.

10-31-2011, 12:17 AM	#8
Vernski Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Rathdrum, Idaho Posts: 1,135	Re: Engine paint question Just start sanding it might take a few years but you'll get it smooth eventually. The guy who suggested sanding is either Goofy or Daffy Duck, really I've never heard of such a thing good luck with the sanding. Just paint it and be done with it...Vernski

10-31-2011, 11:27 AM	#9
T2vigil Registered User Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Evensville, TN Posts: 236	Re: Engine paint question I agree with Sig and Vern. IF you want body finish smooth break out the flapper wheels and grind the casting smooth - Show Truck. Use high fill primer and take your time. Don't know how long it will last but smooth and glossy it can be. On the other hand if it is truly orange peal - practice, practice, practice. I have never had OP with a rattle can that was excessive but I have had a lot of practice.

10-31-2011, 11:39 AM	#10
Rich 5150 69 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Galt, Calif Posts: 2,437	Re: Engine paint question His block looks to as if it ( the paint ) fish eyed on him if you look in the bottom of the crank area, maybe had a little oil bleed thru the primer.... __________________ `64 C10 vortec 350/350/373 posi `69 RS/SS 350/350/308 `37 Ford 406/350/324 traclock `68 Dart 370/904/323 suregrip

11-01-2011, 06:05 AM	#12
T2vigil Registered User Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Evensville, TN Posts: 236	Re: Engine paint question If it is Fish-Eye my experience has been contaminates on the surface before paint is applied. Wash the bare block with soap and water and a scrub brush. Let dry and then laquer thinner so you Know there is no contaminates before priming. Metal is porus and will absorb moisture and oils.

11-02-2011, 10:50 AM	#13
Goldie80 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Livermore, CA Posts: 26	Re: Engine paint question Thanks for all the feedback. Taking alook at it now, I am thinking that the lighting and the fact that the paint was still wet may have scared me a bit. I was taking the pic in the garage with a halogen lamp behind me. Take a look at it now and let me know what you think. Attached Images

11-02-2011, 11:13 AM	#14
Goldie80 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Livermore, CA Posts: 26	Re: Engine paint question Vernski, I like the way you think. That's pretty much exactly what my Dad said too. "Well, where's his freakin truck?!" to the guy who asked if I sanded it or not. LOL!

11-02-2011, 11:22 AM	#15
jimmydean Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: Beaverton, OR Posts: 3,728	Re: Engine paint question I think it looks great. I bought some POR15 brush on engine paint on a dare. I painted my intake and was blown away at how good it looks. I won't get to the block for a while, but for brush on, I am happy. No primer, 2 coats (takes FOREVER to dry) __________________ New Project: 1966 LWB C20 Plans: 1/2 ton conversion Dropmember front Dropmember rear Corvette discs Restored raised bed http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=4295210

11-02-2011, 12:56 PM	#16
Goldie80 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Livermore, CA Posts: 26	Re: Engine paint question Jimmydean, yes looks really sharp! Very nice!



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11-02-2011, 01:10 PM	#17
csa daddy Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: evington,va Posts: 1,200	Re: Engine paint question Don't put por 15 on nothing you don't want it on cause it's a bear if you want to take it off Posted via Mobile Device

11-02-2011, 04:37 PM	#19
Goldie80 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Livermore, CA Posts: 26	Re: Engine paint question It's a 230. I just got it rebuilt and balanced. I have a Offenhauser dual intake and two carter weber carbs to bolt on and I got some Langdon cast iron headers too. I can't wait to see what it sounds like. I have some pics in the gallery. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...&ppuser=104648

11-02-2011, 06:08 PM	#21
Vernski Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Rathdrum, Idaho Posts: 1,135	Re: Engine paint question Forgot to post my engine pic...vernski Attached Images

11-03-2011, 12:13 AM	#22
Goldie80 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Livermore, CA Posts: 26	Re: Engine paint question Vernski: Yes, I found myself having to prune the money tree a bit this year. Fortunately, my wife has a green thumb. This was her grandfather's truck. He bought it in '63 so she is fully onboard with the rebuild which makes things a little easier when asking for the checkbook. She is working on cleaning up the valve cover an side covers now. She is going to paint them with a black wrinkle paint. Your rig looks real nice! The mercruiser cam sounds really cool. I will have to read more about that. How long have you had her? I was conflicted about changing the cam in ours. Wanted to stay close to stock for now though. Original plan was to make a bit of a sleeper. Just got the radiator redone over the weekend. Had the core replaced and an extra row added. Looks real good.

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