Differential Gear Set Installation

[tomfg]

I see that LMC (and maybe others) list "ring and pinion" sets for sale.
I need to do something to make my truck more pleasurable to drive, and improve the gas mileage I'm guessing....... hasn't been on the road long enough to check the MPG's yet.

Has anyone had any experience with the aftermarket gear sets?
Would be interesting in hearing about their quality, problems of
installation, and how it "turned out", i.e., "GREAT", "It whines
worse than my wife", etc.
I'm assuming that they're not made in China.... or they?

I haven't had a differential apart for 30 years, other than pulling
an axel, etc., but assume I could do the job if I find the right
manual, and figure out the pre-load, etc.

Thoughts welcomed, thanks, Tom

[Shaky]

I rebuilt a 12-bolt differential with brand new gears, bearings, and posi a number of years ago. I used an Auburn cone-clutch posi, and Richmond gears and bearing kit.

The most difficult part is measuring the pinion depth. It takes specialized measuring equipment. If you can figure out how to do that, you can do everything else.

I have 10K+ miles on mine and it is quiet.

[Big Fenders]

I bought a 3:08 set from Jeg's...for my 12 bolt. Happy with the results although there is a slight whine at about 40
and again about 50. All tolerances are dead on including backlash. i was told later on that gear sets from Jeg's or rather their gear set are going to make a little noise...maybe just for racing applications. They also offer Richmond gear sets that I would check out with the next rear-end conversion.

Bob

[MOJO1963GMC]

If I got one rebuilt how much would I be looking at?

[T Smith]

I used a Richmond ring and pinion and set up kit from Jegs, Eaton limited slip unit and new axles from Summit, and had a local drivetrain shop set it up for me. All total I put about $1600 in mine but it's all new, smooth and quiet....

[Dunenutt]

these work well for checking pinion depth, cheap too!

Don't know if they make one for your diff though.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAT-10004/

[tomfg]

Thanks for all the input.
Sounds like I better dig out some old motor manuals for a refresher course, before I decide to buy gears or not. Seems like when I went to Vo-Tech in the 70's, we used paint to check the mesh of the pinion on the ring gear.
Is this what the "depth gauge" is for, to find the correct engagement of the teeth?

[PGSigns]

The gears are done as a set. When they run them in they measure the position of the pinion in relation to the centerline of the ring gear and that measurement is scribed on the end of the gear. So you put it at that depth using the depth gage. Now the backlash is also written on the ring gear and you shim the carrier to get it correct. Last thing is to look at the pattern using a paist they make for doing this. If you buy an installation kit for the gear set it will come with it. If all went well it should look good. You may need to make small changes to get it perfect.
Jimmy

[Dunenutt]

If you can read and understand what .001" is, it can be a fun project. If not, it will be a $$$$ nightmare!

The number on the pinion can be off by .003" or as bad as the guy who wrote it. Use the original shim as a starter, if it fits. Be sterile and very demanding with perfection.

If you are going to order it online, try randys ring and pinion. They seem to be a sponsor ( they have a banner above this thread, for me anyway). They are an awesome supplier, and have the best calendar girls on the planet. Order a master install kit, with your gears, and you will have everything you need.

Tools needed will be a dial caliper, dial indicator, inch lb torque wrench ( bar style, not a clicker), ft lb torque wrench, and a gear puller. A press is handy, but you can use a propane torch to heat the bearings. You will also need to buy an additional gear end bearing for the pinion. Sand out the inside of the new bearing with a die grinder so it slips on ( use it for setting pinion depth).

[jocko]

why not just swap to an o/d trans? That way you will keep or improve the low end grunt as well as dramatically lower highway cruising rpm. Just a thought. Seems like it would be more expensive to change the trans - but if you did the used T5 route, it might not be THAT much more.

Only mention because I struggled with the same question for a while - have a 3.73 rear, and wanted to go to 3.08s, and it would have been a good setup, but I swapped to a T5 and have never looked back!

Again, might not be a good idea from an additional cost standpoint, but it does accomplish what you are setting out to do without ever cracking open the rear.

[Rooster's 67]

You will need Prussian Blue or an equivalent marking compound for checking the gear interface pattern (coast and drive sides)once you get it set up.

[Captainfab]

Here is some reading for you.........

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=484897

[tomfg]

Thanks Captainfab for the excellent thread recommendation!

[Rooster's 67]

Dang, that was the thread I was hunting captainfab, glad someone found it
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[rideblue00]

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