1969 K10 restoration in NH

[jtaylor]

Picked up a cheap 1969 K10 LWB in Vermont last week with some serious body rust. Planning for new full floor pan, rockers, 1 cab corner, minor patching here and there. Rebuilding a 1979 350 to drop in it after frame and chassis parts are all done....
I thought I'd start a post here with pictures to get some advice on repairs, especially to the last few feet of rear frame. The frame from the the rear leaf spring forward is great, engine area still has some factory frame paint... But the frame in the last 2 to 3 feet has some rot through, a little split/crack starting and has thinned out noticeably. Would probably be ok for light use, but I plan to pull a small boat and to drive on a few rough roads at some point... I haven't found any similar situations in threads on this site yet to get ideas on frame repairs. Where it's only the rear part that's bad, I hate to call the whole frame no good, so I'm hoping some U channel fabricated to fit inside the frame along with plates and bolts will beef it all up so I can still use it like a truck. Planning to sandblast, rust seal and then weld in new pieces. Any tips?
Also, any recommendations for places to get a new frame crossmember? Here's some pics, looking forward to some ideas/advice

[jtaylor]

Here's some closeups... looking for some advice... finding another frame around here might be impossible...
2 main concerns at this point
#1- getting last 3 feet of frame fixed, plated, strengthened. So far my idea is to buy new 4" x 1.5" U channel 3/16th thick and fabricate it to run straight then up the rise past the shock mount. I'd plate the seams and run new bolts through the old frame and the new metal for the leaf spring and shock mount. I need it to do two things, not break on a rough road, and be able to pull a small boston whaler.... As I said, the frame from the rear shock to the front is fine, these back few feet are not..
#2- there's some rust on the upper cab door sil, where the weatherstrip was... Looks like that's part of the whole inner ceiling. I'm hoping a can fit in some 16 gauge and weld a new patch since it's just for the weatherstripping... Also need to repair both vent boxes on the firewell, probably with trace the pattern and use 22ga for them..

Thanks for any help, it's my first project and this is about as rough as they come to start with ! I will keep updating pictures as I make progress..

[VA72C10]

Welcome to the board!

I love to people save these trucks instead of scrapping them...good job!

On the frame, I'd find a donor frame and cut off the rear and patch in at good metal....use a cut like people do when they shorten a long bed to a short bed frame (search the threads on here for info/pictures on that cut)
Then, since you're going to pull with it, I'd gusset the inside of the cut and possibly even box the frame. I'm all about overkill if you plan to haul with the truck...

[no moa]

Welcome. There are some good frames around, check CL or uncle Henry's.
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[jtaylor]

Thanks, that's what I was looking for.. I've seen the cut you're talking about, that's a great idea and overkill=peace of mind... Boxing the patched area would be a good insurance policy... I might be able to find a section at the local junkyard and in the end it'd be the correct frame and not a bunch of fabrication.

[jtaylor]

Cut some bolts, removed grill from the front clip ( the rest is junk ) got new fenders on the way, radiator support, wheels... pulled the windshield and rear window out today ( thanks 67-72 site for the help! ) Hoping to get the cab pulled off in a day or two so I can begin working on frame restoration... Pics to come.
Has anyone ever had the windshield frame need rust repair? mine is fine expect for about 3" in front bottom passenger. Has a bit of rot. I think I'll be able to patch in some sheet metal there.

[no moa]

A lot of them rust around the windows, mine the whole top on the inside was gone.
Sounds like your making great progess.
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[jtaylor]

Yeah.. I keep envying all the pics of the western trucks with no rust at all.. Mine night possibly have more weight in rust than in steel, it won't be a quick restoration for sure, but will have lots of new metal haha

[DeadheadNM]

Nice find. You may want to PM ORAGBLAZ. He's in NY and may be able to get you some segments from a 4wd Blazer frame. I know of a Blue 70 Blazer decaying away near Burlington, MA but was never able to contact the owner. Good luck.

[jtaylor]

could someone tell me what the OEM rim style should be for this truck? Not that rims are a step at this point in the restoration, but I found a great deal on a set of 4 6 lug rally rims with chrome rings. Not sure if they are correct for a 69 K10 ... Mine came with bigger isuzu rims...

[jtaylor]

Bought the set of rims, came with new hub covers, great deal at $75 for a set... still not sure if they're correct though haha...... measured them at 16"x9"..... Still searching for info on the OEM rim and tire size for the K10 and if these rims can work for me that'll be great.. Thanks for any help!
--- I measure wrong.. Just learned that you measure bead to bead... so I came up with 15x8...

[no moa]

Check the forums, there is a member in NH has a fender and a hood for free. Dot know if you need either part but might help you out.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=493656

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[jtaylor]

Thanks, nice to see that he's giving away some parts to help others out... Kinda funny for me, because the only salvageable parts from my front clip were the hood and grill and I just ordered a new drivers fender! At this point I've decided to get a new full floor pan with braces, it's really not much more than all the patches and braces would have been and in the long run, having a solid rust free floor will be great. Looking through the forum for steps to install new pan, will have to brace up cab.
Once I get my frame blasted, welded and restored, I'll be hunting down some inner fenders, radiator support and all the rear bed components since my truck came bare. I wish there was a distributor/ warehouse in NE so I could avoid the crazy freight charges...

[jtaylor]

Few questions and probably hundreds more to come...
1- what is a reasonable price to pay to have frame with axles sandblasted? anyone know a shop or mobile sandblast service in NH or nearby?
2- If I were to sandblast myself, can I get by with a 30 gallon compressor (5.4 cfm@90psi )
Thanks!
3- it's it a viable alternative to not sand blast? I don't mind any labor or time, just looking for quality and not a huge expense. Would wire wheel, sand, brush, etc and POR15 be a good frame treatment?

[VA72C10]

1) prices vary GREATLY by region...have seen people get frames blasted and powdercoated with other parts for under 500...i got a quote of 1000 just to blast my frame

2) don't think that will cut it....but the main thing is it's messy and can be deadly...silica dust is no joke...unless you have the proper respirator (contained helmet unit not a cheapy dust or paint mask with filters)

3) Wire wheel and POR15 can end up looking really nice. More time consuming but a lot less expensive...
I use rustoleum hammered finish paint on my frames. I like the textured finish as it looks like an expensive powdercoat (silver vein) and is much more durable than typical spray paint. I use the rusty metal primer and then topcoat with the hammered texture and have found it to be very durable...

[jtaylor]

Thanks......yeah, I got one quote so far for $700.... that's more than I've spent for the truck and engine so far hahaha..
Just ordered some Eastwood Encapsulator... I think I'll get the frame wire brushed real clean and do a couple coats then a top coat of acrylic laquer. That's hundreds cheaper than blasting and should be solid and look nice. I don't mind the extra time or work, just want quality. I do have to fabricate some plating or channel in the last few feet of frame still too, but I think I can get it all cleaned up and coated first then plan the welds and plates.
If I can get through the whole project with no need for sandblasting, that'd be great!

[jtaylor]

Big thanks to Mikey531 of 67-72 for the free drivers side fender for my project!! it's a huge help. Got the cab off this weekend! Was amazed it only took 2 of us to do it, not easy but all that rust must have made it lighter laid it down on plywood and slid it off the back of frame and onto a pallet. It'll sit there until frame and engine are done, hopefully by spring..Here's a couple pics;

[jtaylor]

More questions

This weekend I'll be dropping the tranny and rear axle. As you see in the pics, the last few feet of frame rail is thinned and rust though in one area on each side. I'm planning on using angle and plate or channel steel and maybe square tube to box in for even more support in critical areas. One cross rail is rusted bad and will have to be taken out as well. Where can I get away with beefing up the frame? Since my truck didn't have a rear body , I'm unsure about which areas of the frame I need to keep clear for mounting the body and wheel wells.
I'm wondering where I can order a new cross rail, or what I could use in it's place. Also wondering if I can get away with adding another cross rail in the back for extra support. I need the truck to be able to pull a 17' Boston Whaler someday, so I need to not only repair the frame rust, but make sure it's plenty strong.
Basically looking for any and all advice on restoring and fixing the issues with the frame as seen in the pictures. Thanks


----- Had another idea or two pending advice.. An option might be to cut the frame rails at a point where metal is perfect ( just forward of axle n leaf spring ) and have new frame rails fabricated ( would this be big $$?? ) or find frame rails at the junk yard ( very rare around here though ) ...

[jtaylor]

Anyone know where I can buy the rearmost cross member? they're all in good shape except that one.. looks like a pain to take out too...
With it out , it looks like I'll be fine to add some angle iron and plate to make this frame real good and strong. Where is a good point to add an additional cross piece? Probably the very end of frame I'd think... Taking tranny out this weekend and maybe axles too. Got a big Summit order on it's way for the 350 rebuild and I have a complete edelbrock top end, crane cam set and MSD distributor ready. Should be a nice engine for a k10...

[DARIO1]

Looks like you are moving along with this project well. You me and the guy from Maine all need to keep in touch for parts and such as we are all up here in the great Northeast. I do have some parts available when you get along with this project. I have restored my 72 K-5 and am working on a 69 shortbed right now.
Good luck.

[BurnoutNova]

looks like someone had a big block in there

[jtaylor]

I must be missing something on that.. it's my first restoration.. yes, it had a big block in it, but I bought it without the motor to save money ( I had already been rebuilding a 350 anyway ) ... Do I need a different crossmember to mount the 350 in this? Thanks
--- or maybe the headers are what gave that away?

[jtaylor]

Thanks Dario, I've got a bunch of extras that came with the truck too.. I'll post as I have a better idea of what will be left over. Extra gas tank, windows, wheels, handles, and other misc.

[jtaylor]

Can I use something like these to replace the rusted rear crossmember ? I'd probably put two of these in along with the angle iron inside the frame rails...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/63-72-CHEVY-...0#ht_500wt_886

[FRENCHBLUE72]

I think I would have someone weld me up a rear brace/cross-member...That is if you do not have access to a welder..