U joint problems

[Kutzy]

Okay,
so I was driving along and my u joint snapped, fortunately I was driving barely 5mph at the time and no real damage was done.

The U joint is messed up and needs replacing, and the part of the rear axle that holds the u joint in place is also messed up.

What is the proper name for this part?
It sticks out of the axle, towards the front of the truck, and you bolt the u joint from the drive-shaft into it. Also, what size is that bolt that holds it to the axle?

Help anyone?


EDIT:
This is from a jeep but it looks similar to the item on the left

[Gyawo]

Not too sure on the size of bolt, try something upwards of an inch. The piece that comes out of the diff is called the yoke. You may need new end caps for it if they are stretched like that. Depending on how chewed up the end of your driveshaft is, I would suggest taking it to a drive line shop and seeing if they don't mind throwing it on a balancing machine to check if it is out of whack.

Had the same thing happen on my K5, was expecting it eventually though. Love how it happens, hear a WHACK WHACK WHACK, and then thump thump thump...

[Kutzy]

Originally Posted by Gyawo

Not too sure on the size of bolt, try something upwards of an inch. The piece that comes out of the diff is called the yoke. You may need new end caps for it if they are stretched like that. Depending on how chewed up the end of your driveshaft is, I would suggest taking it to a drive line shop and seeing if they don't mind throwing it on a balancing machine to check if it is out of whack.

Had the same thing happen on my K5, was expecting it eventually though. Love how it happens, hear a WHACK WHACK WHACK, and then thump thump thump...

Yeah haha, that's exactly how it happened.
Driving along no problem.....then THUNK THUNK THUNK

Luckily I was able to pull off almost instantly, I'm really glad it didn't happen going 60+ mph.

But I will definitely need to get the yoke and a new u-joint.

I'll take some pictures later and show you what the damage is.

It looks to me like straps on the yoke holding the u-joint were bent and let the u-joint wiggle loose and out.

I know I can pick up a u-joint at O'Reilly, but do they also carry that yoke or will I have to look elsewhere?

Thanks for the quick reply.


Here's a pic:

Notice how that top right bolt is bent out? I'm not sure if it caused the u-joint to come out, or that was just a result of it, but either way it looks like I'll be needing a new one!

[54Caddy]

if its a 12 bolt the socket size is 1 1/8 socket. And get a good quality u joint and straps from precision u joints. good stuff and worth the price.

[Kutzy]

Yep, it's the 12 bolt rear end.
And will do! Thanks for the advice.

[rwhit57]

The failure was not likely the yoke or straps but the u-joint itself. It seized up and had no place to go but apart. That yoke can be repaired if the cup seats aren't damaged. The bolts can be removed and run a tap through the threads. A couple of new u-joints and straps, and like was said take the driveshaft in and make sure it isn't bent.

[Kutzy]

I went and took a look the best I could in the dark and it looks like that differential yoke piece is toast.

So I took measurements for a new one and what universal joint I'll need.

It appears to be 3 5/8" from cap to cap and the diameter of the cap seems to be about 1 1/8", does this seem correct for this model/year?

I think I may have found one on eBay that will work for me.

I'll also be taking the drive-shaft in to check for straightness.

[1981Sturgis]

Would this have a crush sleeve, and should it be replaced also? And torqued properly.

[raceman6135]

Originally Posted by 1981Sturgis

Would this have a crush sleeve, and should it be replaced also? And torqued properly.

Yes, it would have a crush sleeve, unless the owner or a previous owner went through the trouble of setting it up properly with a solid spacer (the vast majority of people stick with the crush sleeve because setting up a solid spacer is quite difficult and time consuming)

The differential must be disassembled in order to replace the crush sleeve, and since there is no indication that it was damaged, it's highly unlikely that it needs to be replaced.

When the OP replaces the pinion yoke, he should carefully mark the relationship between the pinion, pinion yoke and pinion nut. Also record the number of threads exposed on the pinion BEFORE the nut is removed. This will help with reassembly. A repair manual MUST BE CONSULTED before this repair is performed, unless someone has a link to share which will help the OP.

OP: while you have the yoke off for replacement, it would be prudent to replace the pinion seal at the same time.

[Kutzy]

Thanks for the info raceman!

If someone has a step-by-step guide it would be much appreciated!

I still have a few days until the parts get in so I'm reading up as much as I can to find exactly what I will need to do.

[Kutzy]

Update:
I just got my new yoke in the mail today.
I will be going tomorrow to buy the u-joint, straps, etc.

After looking up the part number on the yoke, it uses a 1330 series u-joint,
does anyone know what series u-joint the drive-shaft uses originally?

Will I be able to simply buy a 1330 series u-joint or will I need a 1310-to-1330 u-joint?

Will be happy to have my truck moving again!

[Kutzy]

I still have a few items to get, so here's a bump hoping someone has an answer to my question!

kutzy

[Kutzy]

Okay, I finally got it all fixed and buttoned up and it's running great!

It turned out to be a 1330 series u-joint afterall. But it was a good learning experience. Thanks for the help and feedback everyone.