Looking for more input on my first 67-72

[MattPSU]

I'm going to look at a reasonably priced 67 C-10 this weekend that's missing some of the features that I'm looking for in a truck but appears to be a straight, solid bodied truck with a healthy V-8 and automatic transmission. I'm looking for some input on what it might take - work wise and money wise - to add these features:

Power brakes
Disc Brakes
Power Steering
6 to 5 lug
A/C

I also have an opportunity to buy a truck with all of these options for about twice the price. This truck is pretty much complete, but would wipe out my budget and leave me with no money for a while to make any changes (wheels, stance, etc.) that I would want to make.

If you've converted your truck from not having any (or all) of these options to having them, can you let me know what to expect?

Also, is it terrible to have a truck without some of these options? I don't plan to drive it everyday - just here and there once a week or so.

Thanks in advance for any input.

-Matt

[stomper]

My advice would be to buy the nicest truck you can afford from the beginning. You will be money ahead.

I define 'nice', in this order of importance, as:

1) little or no rust
2) very few dings/dents or no body damage
3) all one color
4) good surface finish on body. i.e original paint, patina, or repaint
5) Complete truck with all parts
6) Drivable
7) Number of desirable accessories/features/bolt-ons

For example, price being equal, I'd pass on a rusty Cheyenne Super to get a straight original 6cyl.

[CC69Rat]

I couldn't agree more. It will cost a lot more to fix rust than anything. Regardless of options, I'd start there. Get a good solid body to start, or (like I did) find someone that has already fixed the rust and ate the cost and just build it up from there. Complete truck or shell, the first thing I look for is rust regardless of price. It can cost $3-4k in metal work to pay someone to do it. I bought my truck for less than the metal work would have cost and/or basically got the truck for free.

If it has the features you want, at that point it's just less you'll have to spend later on.

Are you referring to different ways to add Power Brakes, Disc, AC, etc. .. or strictly original pieces? Ex. a CPP Disc conversion kit or 71-72 swap? 73-87 swap? There's a couple different ways to accomplish the things you've mentioned. Air cab vs. Vintage Air system.

.. etc. Just food for thought.

[MattPSU]

Thanks for the input so far, guys. I'll comment on a few of your points:

I've looked at about 8 trucks so far, and have determined that I want something that won't need a lot of body work. I know what you mean about it being expensive to repair. I customized an 89 S-10 a while back and put more into rockers/doors/cab corners/fenders/etc. than I care to admit.

The two trucks that I'm currently considering appear to be similar from a rust stand point. The less expensive truck has a small spot on the hood (looks like a chip that went unfixed). The other truck is nearly perfect and needs no body work or paint.

Both trucks are complete and drivable.

The real difference for me is the options. One is a basic truck with no extras - no AC, PS, PB, etc., 6 lugs. The more expensive one has all of those options.

I'm not worried about keeping it original/authentic/stock - I'm fine with aftermarket items and/or parts for other vehicles. In fact my long term plans include lowering, custom wheels, stereo & paint (if if needs to be painted).

I'm mostly trying to determine if a $3-4K price difference is worth those options. If i go with the less expensive one, I have budget left for some of those items and/or wheels/stereo/paint plus it'll be fun to work on. The more expensive one won't need any work done other than mu customizations but would wipe out my budget for 6 months or more.

-Matt

[57larry]

are you able & willing to work on your truck? I'd buy the best body I could, mechanical issues are better to work on than bodywork

[stsalvage]

I have one to add in are days now from 20 years ago when parts where cheap and labor was cheaper.

Now i have a story

i HAVE A 1971 NOVA

it has a 396 with a 400 trans its fully loaded with big block air and power steering and power brakes and disc brakes buckets and shifter on the floor

Now this car is a Mock up car meaning for the last 6 years i've collected all there parts and some i have installed some i have sitting.

The car is not a SS

Now this car to me is worth 6500.00 the way it sits Now you can buy a running 1971 nova with a 350 th 350 trans for 5000.00 Yes it has no disc brakes no big block and the air dose not work and ity might or might not have disc brakes

the point i'm making it cost more to build them then just to but them running.Not many of us in here have 10,000 dollars to start a build that can cost up to 45,000

So go buy a running platform to see if you even like driving these things and if you do then you will have a grate toy that has value