1972 c10 chevy truck troubleshooting!

[irgo2310]

Alright guys, I am a newcomer at this time. I am having a lot of trouble with my truck. The problem is that my 72 c10 with a 402 big block, starts with no problem, until I put it in gear, either drive, or reverse, then it just shuts off! Can anybody help, please? I really need someone to help me out!

George!

[BMERDOC]

Any recent repairs or changes to your combo?

[chevytruckluver]

welcome to the site my neighbor to the north!
Is your truck running smoothly before you drop it into gear? Do you know the idle speed before you put it in gear? As Bmerdoc asked is there anything new or changed? It may be a simple carb adjustment

[Autoblueprint]

Originally Posted by irgo2310

The problem is that my 72 c10 with a 402 big block, starts with no problem, until I put it in gear, either drive, or reverse, then it just shuts off! Can anybody help, please? I really need someone to help me out!

Inside the POINTS type distributor there is a black wire and a brown wire, one goes to the coil and one to ground, sometimes the wire ( usually the black wire ) is broken but you can't see it with the naked eye. Check for continuity on each wire with an ohm meter as you wiggle the wire, if the meter reading reading goes OL ( loss of signal, i.e., an open circuit ) then that is your problem. Replace the distributor.

If it is an HEI, check the green and yellow wires at the pickup coil inside the distributor. Same fix, replace the distributor.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Try increaseing the idle speed.
Blueprint brings up a good possibility but here in the Midwest we replace the wire or the pickup coil & not the whole dist.

[irgo2310]

Not really other than a carburetor kit!

[irgo2310]

Not really BMERDOC!

[irgo2310]

Yep, CHEVYTRUCKLUVER, the idle is fine, it cranks up like a rocket, the problem is when I put it in drive, or reverse then, it just shuts off. I can keep it running if I used both feet, on foot on the break and the other on the gas!

[irgo2310]

Thanks AUTOBLUEPRINT, I will try it out and see what happens!

[irgo2310]

Thank you WRENCHBENDER RET, I will try all these tips out. Hopefully, I will get my baby running again. I really need it running, this is my new project, is ready for a paint and interior job.

[PHAT TONY]

If your torque convertor decided to lock up this could possibly happen.

[VetteVet]

Look around the intake manifold for an open port where a hose might go. You might have a large vacuum leak. If you just put in a carb kit you may have missed a port. If you have a vacuum gauge then put it on a manifold port and try to read around 18 inches of vacuum.

Do you have a brake booster? If so then pull the hose off of it at the manifold and plug the port. A bad brake booster will cause a vacuum leak. Vacuum leaks will make the engine run faster and
when the idle is turned down to compensate, then the off idle acceleration is affected and the vehicle will stall.

Block up the rear end and repeat the procedure. Check your timing. Retarded timing will give these symptoms.

[Indyuke]

^^ I agree with the above. If you can keep it running by keeping your foot on the gas, then it's not a problem with loss of continuity in the ignition circuit. More than likely a timing issue, vac leak, carb adjustment, etc. Something is maladjusted rather than broken.

[NewAge1970]

Originally Posted by irgo2310

Yep, CHEVYTRUCKLUVER, the idle is fine, it cranks up like a rocket, the problem is when I put it in drive, or reverse then, it just shuts off. I can keep it running if I used both feet, on foot on the break and the other on the gas!

i had this same problem with my 350/700r4 combo. intake leak was my problem. ran fine at idle untill it is put in gear and then it wouldnt keep up an idle. or try the carb kit idea, or possibly even a carb gasket.

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Look around the intake manifold for an open port where a hose might go. You might have a large vacuum leak. If you just put in a carb kit you may have missed a port. If you have a vacuum gauge then put it on a manifold port and try to read around 18 inches of vacuum.

Do you have a brake booster? If so then pull the hose off of it at the manifold and plug the port. A bad brake booster will cause a vacuum leak. Vacuum leaks will make the engine run faster and
when the idle is turned down to compensate, then the off idle acceleration is affected and the vehicle will stall.

Block up the rear end and repeat the procedure. Check your timing. Retarded timing will give these symptoms.

X3. Look for a large vacuum leak-brake booster or carb gasket come to mind but there are other small hoses too.

[irgo2310]

Thanks, PHAT TONY!

[irgo2310]

Thanks, Vettevet!

[irgo2310]

Thanks Indiuke!

[irgo2310]

Thanks, New age 1970!

[irgo2310]

Thanks, Markdtn!