gas tank conversion problems

[awitate]

Everybody says this an easy project. So far i've had to remove the rivets on the spare tire cross bar, notch the cross sill bar, drill 2 holes on the frame and i've also notched a piece out of the frame to allow for space for the filler neck on the tank. It seems like 1 of the tank straps is inside out. my Question is do i need the straps? Can I bolt the tank to the frame and call it a day. I can't figure out why i need the straps. I'm using the metal 69-72 blazer/suburban tank from american classic. This tank looks exactly like the tanks from everybody else. This is going on a 63 short bed fleetside btw. I have looked at tons of posts but there are too many variations to find the answer i'm looking for.
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[rbar]

Could be some very valid points. Another thought process could be it was easier for the factory to not make a tank with flanges strong enough to bolt to the frame and two straps with only one nut on each strap was cheaper and quicker. As for ease of installation, I installed the cpp aluminum tank and it bolted right in to the frame just fine, although the sending unit instructions were completely wrong.
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[lil_sahara450r]

glad to know im not the only one that had major issues with the cpp instructions. when you pay that kind of money for a tank, you expect it all to bolt right in... im done with cpp after this. and they didnt wanna help me out when i called them out on it. the tank was great but everything else was a MAJOR thumbs DOWN!!!

[Money Pit C-10's]

No CPP tank. Got it..

[awitate]

Yeah, from everything i read the 69-72 blazer/suburban tank was suppose to be virtually plug and play. I've had to fabricate and modify alot of stuff already and i'm still not finished. For anybody that is considering this mod i think the more expensive but simpler looking tanks could be the way to go. By the way, I'm guessing that no matter where you get the blazer tank from its going to be made in china.
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[markeb01]

I agree with the concept that straps are needed on a tin tank originally designed to be attached in that manner. Bolting the flanges to the frame will likely rupture the tank after enough twisting frame cycles.

I have a custom Rock Valley tank that holds 33 gallons. Mine bolts to the frame rails via welded angle flanges on the side ends of the tank. I had some concerns about long term strength because of the weight, and the fabricators resolved the problem by making the end panels and brackets twice as thick as the tank, which is already 2-3 times thicker than the stock tank. I'd worry about using this mounting method unless if was a tank designed for the purpose like the Falcon tank.

[awitate]

I guess i'll take everyone's advice and use the straps . Wouldn't have been so difficult if they were both the same. Thanks everyone for the advice!
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[rbar]

I really like the CPP aluminum tank with the flanges bolting the the frame. It fit right in. They just give you a universal sending unit and then give you instructions that say not to rotate it and to cut it to a certain length. Then it won't work without rotating it and the sending unit will be cut to the wrong length. Each purchase I have made through them results in a problem that they steer me the wrong way, or have no idea of what to tell me, as in the case of my emergency brake cables that they could never tell me how to hook up. That's once they manage to get the parts that are really really late. But, like I said, I like the tank.

[pdxhall]

There are many tanks in autos that are bolted directly to the frame or subframe including the Falcon tank mentioned above and the Mustang tanks, and many others. I have an early mustang tank that I bolted directly to the underside of the top frame rail and is sandwiched between the frame rail and a 1" wide steel strip. I don't see a problem with bolting to the frame rails unless you are doing some major frame twisting launches in racing or in rock crawling. The frame and the crossmembers are very stout. You might have a problem if you don't have any suspension underneath but that's unlikely.

[neto]

I put the CPP tank in also and had the side mount filler. I had to cut the frame also and bolting the tank wasn't that bad just drilling the holes were fun. In retrospect I would have looked for a tank that the filler hose goes above the frame. I think early classic has one out of stainless steel. Just the price of 700 plus was a little high for me this time.

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

You can take a look on how I done mine on my Ole' truck.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=321173
https://skydrive.live.com/?sc=photos...1365&sc=photos
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[rbar]

Originally Posted by neto

I put the CPP tank in also and had the side mount filler. I had to cut the frame also and bolting the tank wasn't that bad just drilling the holes were fun. In retrospect I would have looked for a tank that the filler hose goes above the frame. I think early classic has one out of stainless steel. Just the price of 700 plus was a little high for me this time.

I have posted this once before, but drilling was easy this way.

[Clownpuncher]

To the original poster. The tank in my truck is from a 69-72 K5 blazer and it fits perfectly.Some of the flanges had to be bent up towards the front but that's because of the "C" notch

[awitate]

Originally Posted by Clownpuncher

To the original poster. The tank in my truck is from a 69-72 K5 blazer and it fits perfectly.Some of the flanges had to be bent up towards the front but that's because of the "C" notch

Mine is a reproduction from china so I'm guessing its close but not exactly the same as an original 69-72 blazer tank. It does fit but I still had to do alot of stuff to it and the truck to make it work.

[monolith]

Just today I installed a 50 gallon tank in my panel- bolted to the frame-for detalis check the panel thread in my sig
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[mud.man.rj]

I don't know if any of them are to easy, i put a poly sub tank in the rear of my 71, no fun at all, a lot of mods. But it's done now and way better than in the cab. Got some in cab room now, not quite an extended cab but enough for a sub box.

[purebred]

I bought the 21 gallon tank from LMC and didn't have any problems except the crossmember for the filler tube, but I guess that is why these trucks are fun, challenging but real satisfaction when done.

[LDO]

I purchased the 19 gal from POL. As with the CPP kit, the tank looks good and installs well but i had the exact same issues with the sending unit as others have. Only worked if you 'clocked' it and if you follow their instructions, it ended up being cut incorrectly. I was reading empty with about 7-8 gallons still in the tank.

Their customer service however, was fantastic and they sent me another sending unit no questions asked.

[Iron-Butt]

Will the cpp tank hang to low if the truck has air bags? was you able to get the sending unit to read with the factory guages or are you using an after market guage.

[DLOE65]

Anyone use the universal fuel cells from summit or jegs?
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[rbar]

Originally Posted by Iron-Butt

Will the cpp tank hang to low if the truck has air bags? was you able to get the sending unit to read with the factory guages or are you using an after market guage.

My truck still isnt together, so I don't know on that one.
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[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by DLOE65

Anyone use the universal fuel cells from summit or jegs?
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The RCI 17 gallon is 30" L x 17" W x 7" H and if you trim the inside of the top of the frame rail, it sits nice. My bed will me raised, so the extra few inches aren't an issue.

[ctumbler]

Originally Posted by LDO

I purchased the 19 gal from POL. As with the CPP kit, the tank looks good and installs well but i had the exact same issues with the sending unit as others have. Only worked if you 'clocked' it and if you follow their instructions, it ended up being cut incorrectly. I was reading empty with about 7-8 gallons still in the tank.

Their customer service however, was fantastic and they sent me another sending unit no questions asked.

So bought my 66 with what I believe is the cpp kit already installed, the PO had no idea who had done what to the truck, bought it with no mechanical knowledge at all, so I am trying to decode what the previous previous owner did. The PO did tell me something similar, that it would read E even with a half a tank left, and that with a half a tank reading there was a full tank - or something to that effect.

I am in the process of going through all the issues with the truck, how did you "clock" the sending unit? Seems like easy access with no bed floor - just not sure what resistance I should be getting off the sending unit back to the dash for "E" "1/2" and "F"

[Clownpuncher]

Not the best picture but here is my truck with a 69-72 K5 Blazer tank
It would only work if you had a raised bed floor, Unless you strapped it but I think then it would sit to low. To me this looks like the same tank Brother's uses as their kit to move the 60-72 gas tanks under the bed.

[rbar]

Originally Posted by ctumbler

So bought my 66 with what I believe is the cpp kit already installed, the PO had no idea who had done what to the truck, bought it with no mechanical knowledge at all, so I am trying to decode what the previous previous owner did. The PO did tell me something similar, that it would read E even with a half a tank left, and that with a half a tank reading there was a full tank - or something to that effect.

I am in the process of going through all the issues with the truck, how did you "clock" the sending unit? Seems like easy access with no bed floor - just not sure what resistance I should be getting off the sending unit back to the dash for "E" "1/2" and "F"

The sending unit came so that it would swing to the left and hit the tank wall. With it turned to the correct way like my photo, the bolt holes did not line up. I had to loosen the top nut and rotate the top plate so that it would swing to the right instead. The other part that caused me to be worried was that the sender instructions said not to do that. I had to send CPP photos and they told me to do it, it wouldn't hurt it, so I did.