Sub box/audio questions

[1LowToy]

Well I got some more cut out for the skeleton of the speaker box. I can counter sink in the MDF panels. Couple of things I don't get. Many are making custom speaker enclosures from glass in door and kick panels. Why can't I do it for a sub box in the back with the same results? I can seal it up tighter than a frogs azz and support it well enough to stop any vibrations.

I'm held up right now due to cash flow issues (Wife has made plans for an Alaska trip). I can't fab in a radio head that I don't have.

[joe231]

Im sure glass will be fine.
I've seen lots of boxes built in cars.

What part of Alaska are you coming to see?
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[dv8customs]

Nothing wrong with building a fiberglass box but you still need the proper foundation. I assume you intend to glass the front of your box to give it some shape. Don't glass the back side, a big flat piece of fiberglass isn't going to be very strong. Instead you need to make the back panel out of wood as well. The box will work with the wood you have used, it just wasn't the best choice.

[stroker87]

you can make the box from what ever materials you choose fiberglass, lexan & Etc.. 3/4 inch MDF is the number one choice for custom boxes because its known to take the abuse from the subwoofers and when built right does not rattle, flex or make noises so sound quality is really good

1/4 inch plywood is just not the best to use if you are after sound quality any thing for that matter 1/4 inch should not be used, the box your making can be made out of one 4x8 sheet of 3/4" MDF

you can make a box out of plywood and brace it to be really strong but you will be loosing internal air space and your subwoofer might not preform well

[dv8customs]

Looks like he endud up using some 3/4" pine or something. It's not 1/4" and it's not plywood.

[1LowToy]

Ok here's what I have in mind

Yes it is 3/4" pine framework. I can fill in front and back with either 1/4" ply, support and seal all enclosures and support to prevent vibration or leaks. The glass will be part if the support to strengthen the ply and create shape where needed. Like on area around where the head unit will be placed and the very sides.

Second choice is to fill in with MDF but I will be loosing the internal area needed as the MDF it thicker. I can counter sink in the MDF board into the framework but that takes away from the internal area. I'm trying for as much internal area without more outside area. As you know these trucks have such limited space. I'm not trying to be a meathead just trying for as much internal area with out giving up external area.

If I can stop all the leaks and vibrations with support (framework) and glasswork, what's the difference? I have a hard time seeing glass worked door panels gettin pumped with 100 + watts and that's ok and I can't do the same or better for the back panel.

[stroker87]

Originally Posted by 1LowToy

I can fill in front and back with either 1/4" ply, support and seal all enclosures and support to prevent vibration or leaks. The glass will be part if the support to strengthen the ply and create shape where needed. Like on area around where the head unit will be placed and the very sides.

whats the specs on your subwoofers & what is every thing your installing in/on the box?

[riz]

I have a question about the system I have planned. Now that this thread seems to be building some momentum, I decided to throw it into the mix.

Here's what I have planned :

(1) Boston Acoustics GTA 1105 5 channel amp
(2 ) Rockford Fosgate 10" slim subs
(2) Boston Acoustics SE60 component systems which include (4) 6.5" mids and (4) 3/4" tweeters
(1) Rockford Fosgate 1 farad capacitor.

Let me hear your thoughts / ideas. Positive feedback only please.

RIZ

[1LowToy]

I'm working on a real no frills buget here so as usual it's gona take time. I have a cheapy Sony 10' sub for the center, and have two 200 watt modular speakers for under the seat. I've heard them before so I know there good.

hoping for some nice 6x9s for the back and a 5 chanel amp. All in good time.

[broey]

I just bought the pre built all inclusive kicker set up like this..


it's like $250 or so and came with box, shallow 10 inch sub, built in amp and all the wiring(with a bass knob). it's not competiton quality but in my single cab its hits plenty hard. All in all, definitely worth the money.

[DREAMER1]

How does that box fit behind your seat? Looks like a pretty good deal if it's all pre-wired with an amp. Like to hear/see more about it
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[dwatts1984]

Box shape and design looks great. Seems your pretty good with tools. But as most have said go with MDF (medium Density Fiberboard). Pick up a gull sheet from lowes or home depot. But its down... and use your original box as a template.
MDF is denser... plywood will bounce sounds terrible... its will sound like garbage. Also glue every seem before you shoot with a brad nailer then come back and shoot screws it. This ensure an absolutely tight seal. Lastly... caulk all the seams. Finally once the box is completed... stuff it with poly fill... the stuff is a couple bucks from walmart... It will slow the bass waves, giving the impression of a bigger box (important with truck boxes as they are small) otherwise you will have very "punchy" bass.

Lastly... I would pick up the cheap roll of carpet at walmart... believe its 15 bucks... and wrap the box in it. Will give a completed finished look. You'll have a custom built box that not only looks good, but will sound great also, and will last a long long time!

Just my piece.

[john_p]

another good thing about 3/4 mdf is it is very easy to round over the edges prior to paint or glass.. glass smooth finish.. pre-drill glue and screw.. unreal solid box,, for the best sound.. buy the speakers before you build the box.. look up the specs for those speakers.. min cubic inches, ported or even port size can make a great pair of speakers sound as designed

[franky69c10]

Originally Posted by broey

I just bought the pre built all inclusive kicker set up like this..


it's like $250 or so and came with box, shallow 10 inch sub, built in amp and all the wiring(with a bass knob). it's not competiton quality but in my single cab its hits plenty hard. All in all, definitely worth the money.

whats up broey , did u pick that up around town, if so where at

[Kerlijah]

I got my setup online from Sonic Electronix, it's a Sony 12", preloaded in a box designed to fit behind the seat of a pickup. I cant remember for sure, but I believe it's a 1500 watt sub, and I've got a 1600 watt amp powering it. I'm not much of an audio expert, but I do know it kicks freakin HARD!!

[wyattglock]

If I can stop all the leaks and vibrations with support (framework) and glasswork, what's the difference? I have a hard time seeing glass worked door panels gettin pumped with 100 + watts and that's ok and I can't do the same or better for the back panel.[/QUOTE]

It isn't that the glass wont work for the sub box. It needs to be braced better due to the lower frequency of the subs. Keep in mind a door speaker is usually pushing from 80hz up. At 80 hz, a 6.5" speaker does not have the same power and resonance even if you ran 300 watts through it as a 10 or 12" sub at 100 watts. A sub is designed for maximum output of low frequency, that is why they dont sound very good when you run mid range and treble through them. Yes, they will play those frequencies, but they aren't very efficient due to design.

The box you built will still sound good. Especially since it is in a tightly enclosed space. If you were to use MDF and fiberglass together you could get away with thinner MDF. The glass would stiffen the wood up quite a bit. It is just a lot more work. Good luck with setting the rest of it up!

[1LowToy]

Thinking of starting a new thread.

" Show me the sound setup that rattles tailgates"

[77chris03]

MDF is a must. if your going to glass the box, you can get away with using 5/8" MDF but be sure to use chop mat with your glass. I used to do custom boxes for a custom accessories shop here in conroe. My last box was for my 2003 ext. cab z71. I crammed 3.2 cubic feet under that seat ported with an amp rack all built in. used 5/8 mdf and chop mat all the way around the inside of the box and recessed the subs to clear the seats......
Click here to see pics... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...24&postcount=2

this box weighed in at a little over 65 lbs. housed with two 12" CVRs powered by a kicker 700mono block. if you dont have the space requirements for the speaker, you can always add a filling, ie...insulation etc. to dampen the sound and make the sub feel like its in a bigger box. a sealed box will give you a tighter bass response...

[broey]

Originally Posted by DREAMER1

How does that box fit behind your seat? Looks like a pretty good deal if it's all pre-wired with an amp. Like to hear/see more about it
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it fit really good, here is a pic of it installed.


best part that I forgot to mention earlier, is the wires to the box are all quick disconnect. so removing the box is super easy, takes about 5 seconds.

[broey]

Originally Posted by franky69c10

whats up broey , did u pick that up around town, if so where at

Yeah I got it at best buy, they have a two speaker box also, but I opted to keep the storage area. behind the seat for other things.