Anyone else having problems with new MII alignment?

[DransportGarage]

Fatman's instructions are very good in this area:

"...A general rule for street rods is to use V-6 springs with small block engines and V-8 springs with big blocks. Pickups with the motor further forward generally need V-8 springs with small blocks, and '79-up Mustang V-8 springs with big blocks. For specific recommendations, see your builders guide, or call us.

Most cars need 1/2 to 1 coil cut (with a grinder, not a torch!) but we recommend putting it together stock first, and cut 1/2 coil at a time to maintain proper ride height with the lower control arm about parallel to the ground. If you have to cut more than 1 coil you probably should switch to a lighter spring.

You won't be able to adjust your coil spring height without having ALL the weight on your car. That includes sheet metal, radiator, bumper, body and complete engine. It is impossible to correctly determine the proper springspring rate and length on an incomplete vehicle. Having cement bags or two large friends standing on the crossmember just will not accurately simulate the finished car's load. The spring installation and trim should be the last thing you do before going to the alignment shop - with a complete vehicle.

If we're doing a car that isn't all together, we normally leave the spring out and cut a section of tubing about 2" long to go on the shock shaft, and make it non-compressible. This allows you to approximate the ride height to do your final setup. Hub-to-hub kits include this shock spacer for your convenience.

When you do install the spring and trim it to proper ride height, you'll find it much easier to do if you leave out the shock, unbolt the strut rod from the lower control arm, and leave the lower ball joint just finger tight. This will allow the lower control arm to swing down freely and make the spring easily removed and replaced. On a fully-assembled car you'll find the spring is about right when you can assemble the ball joints to the spindle with only the weight of the car holding it down. Just jack up the lower ball joint. If you have to work too hard to get things together, cut the spring another 1/2 coil."

(Author's note: These instructions -- especially the last sentence -- may or may not apply to non-Fatman installations.)

There also is a 4-part tech article accessible on the Fatman's website:

http://fatmanfab.com/. Just click on "Media", then "Tech", then "Mustang II on Steroids for 55-59 GM Trucks - Part 1".