General Maintence

[Car'n'Guitars]

What all should be replaced since I am replacing spark plugs what else should be replaced along with them? Also is there any special fuel filter that has to go in a quadrajet carb? And does anyone know where to get the fuel inlet housing for the fuel filter on a quadrajet?

[Squareforceone]

are we just talking under the hood? Plugs, wires, fuel and air filters, oil change. Not under the hood bulbs... like all of mine took a crap at once last week tail lights dome light etc..

[Car'n'Guitars]

Originally Posted by Squareforceone

are we just talking under the hood? Plugs, wires, fuel and air filters, oil change. Not under the hood bulbs... like all of mine took a crap at once last week tail lights dome light etc..

Just under the hood for now. Also does anyone know how to change the transmission dipstick seal?

[Car'n'Guitars]

Also what is the size of the fuel line that runs from the fuel pump to the carburetor?

[Goldfinger]

Don't forget to grease you zerks. they kind of look like little nipples they will be near your bushings. I believe its recommended every 3 months 30k miles. cap and rotor as well.

[jitteryguy]

Originally Posted by Car'n'Guitars

Also does anyone know how to change the transmission dipstick seal?

there's a bolt in the back of the cylinder head hold'n the dip stick, remove it and the stick will pull up out of the trans. the seal is just a rubber boot, it will very likely be cook'd to the trans and you'll have to dig it out, lube the new one and push into the trans then slide the dip stick tube back into the seal.
also check all the hose's, valve cover bolts vacume line's, ect.......

[donut]

dipstick seal- where tube meets the pan?
clean area where tube meets pan (don't want crud falling in) remove tube, should be a slip fit. May be attached at the bell-housing, unless your truck has been previously molested.
Crawl underneath, reach up and pull seal from trans replace w/new seal, re-install.

Where big bolt is sticking up is your seal.

IIRC fuel line is 5/16's
Fuel housing for a q-jet, Used to be you could get them at any parts store, some hanging in the 'help" section, but I haven't shopped for one in a while, ask at the counter. Why do you need the housing? Yours stripped out?
Filter- there is a small filter that goes into the inlet housing. Personally I prefer an inline filter before the carb. Easier to change, esp where your already shopping for a fuel inlet.

Under hood, first thing I'd do is get some degreaser and a hose and clean. Nicer to work on and easier to see problems.

[C-10 simplex]

You have to be careful not to strip it---the inlet housing/nut. If it's the nut that screws into the carb/housing then you could likely find one at the local salvage yard. There are places where you can find them new as well but i don't have the info off the top right now.

a) If it's a rebuilt carb from a parts store, then the inlet nut is most likely wrong!

If it's the actual housing in the carb, then this is more involved.

[Car'n'Guitars]

Originally Posted by donut

dipstick seal- where tube meets the pan?
clean area where tube meets pan (don't want crud falling in) remove tube, should be a slip fit. May be attached at the bell-housing, unless your truck has been previously molested.
Crawl underneath, reach up and pull seal from trans replace w/new seal, re-install.

Where big bolt is sticking up is your seal.

IIRC fuel line is 5/16's
Fuel housing for a q-jet, Used to be you could get them at any parts store, some hanging in the 'help" section, but I haven't shopped for one in a while, ask at the counter. Why do you need the housing? Yours stripped out?
Filter- there is a small filter that goes into the inlet housing. Personally I prefer an inline filter before the carb. Easier to change, esp where your already shopping for a fuel inlet.

Under hood, first thing I'd do is get some degreaser and a hose and clean. Nicer to work on and easier to see problems.

Yeah my housing is stripped out. Thanks for the picture that helped me a lot. Yeah definately needs the engine cleaned. And thanks to everyone that put information into this.

[Car'n'Guitars]

How do you get the fuel line from the fuel pump to carburetor off?

[Car'n'Guitars]

Well I managed to save the fuel inlet housing, but still no luck on the line from the fuel pump to carb any advice?

[donut]

Off of which end? It should be attached to the fuel inlet and pump the same way.
That's another reason why I use the in-line filter. Remove the inline filter and it gives you a spot to drop a box wrench down the line. A flair wrench is recommended, but if I can get a box wrench on it...

[Car'n'Guitars]

Originally Posted by donut

Off of which end? It should be attached to the fuel inlet and pump the same way.
That's another reason why I use the in-line filter. Remove the inline filter and it gives you a spot to drop a box wrench down the line. A flair wrench is recommended, but if I can get a box wrench on it...

On the fuel pump end. I am using line wrench and it almost seems like the bolt part is stuck or stripped into the pump. Also do you know if this will work or a line replacement?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=216473_0_0_

[1LowToy]

You need a flare-nut wrench or you will almost for sure round off the nut with an open end wrench

[Car'n'Guitars]

Originally Posted by 1LowToy

You need a flare-nut wrench or you will almost for sure round off the nut with an open end wrench

Yeah thats what im using but I call them line wrenches.

[mrhino]

auto zone sell a repair fitting here http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...questid=773415

iv never used one but they do make em. your line will be tight. years of rust and corrision. it is junk dont worry about damaging it. your gonna replace it any how. spray a little penetrating oil on there, if that dont work, heat it with a torch. (just kidding)

one trick is to get the wrench on there good and then smack it with a hammer, the wrench that is. the quick sharp blow will most likly break it loose. same theory as a impact gun. if all else fails cut the line and get it with a ratchet and socket.

[donut]

Being from New England (where I had to replace brake hard lines often) I'd use steel brake line for a new fuel supply, just bend new and re install. If your gas line fittings are to boogered up, you may have to pull the fuel pump to get better access to the fitting.

(ok, maybe not have to, but sometimes it's easier to approach from a different tac)
Something else to consider while your there. How old is the fuel pump? Sometimes it's cheaper to spend a few bucks than deal with the aggravation. Mech. pumps are fairly cheap.
Years ago I learned this dealing with brake bleeder screws, now if they're frozen/stripped, I just junk the wheel cylinder.

[Car'n'Guitars]

Originally Posted by donut

Being from New England (where I had to replace brake hard lines often) I'd use steel brake line for a new fuel supply, just bend new and re install. If your gas line fittings are to boogered up, you may have to pull the fuel pump to get better access to the fitting.

(ok, maybe not have to, but sometimes it's easier to approach from a different tac)
Something else to consider while your there. How old is the fuel pump? Sometimes it's cheaper to spend a few bucks than deal with the aggravation. Mech. pumps are fairly cheap.
Years ago I learned this dealing with brake bleeder screws, now if they're frozen/stripped, I just junk the wheel cylinder.

That's what I'll be doing went and bought spark plugs and a fuel pump for my truck. Will get new lines tomorrow. Thanks for all the input everyone.

[Car'n'Guitars]

Got the spark plugs in but I broke one so I had to get another one. Put the fuel pump on with no problems. And put the fuel filter in the carb. But still need to get a fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb. Went to advanced auto and one guy told me they could bend a fuel line to be a replica of my old fuel line. Came back with my fuel line the next day and this guy tells me they can't do it. So I will be figuring out what my next step is.

[78 Big10 454]

Try this company:

http://www.inlinetube.com/

My line from the fuel pump to the carb went south on me and got a perfect replacement from them.

[donut]

You can order a replacement (like above) or if your somewhat handy, bend up your own.

Fuel lines really only need to go from point A to point B. (safely, don't lay it across headers, let it rub on the valve cover, etc) What I do is measure what I need for length, run down to the parts store, grab a straight length of brake line that is made up with the ends, bend away. You may have to get a bender, iirc off of the pump is a 90, little difficult to bend without kinking and no bender. Not really difficult, but can be frustrating. (esp if your looking for a perfect factory look).

[Car'n'Guitars]

Originally Posted by 78 Big10 454

Try this company:

http://www.inlinetube.com/

My line from the fuel pump to the carb went south on me and got a perfect replacement from them.

And these cost cost more than I want to spend right now. Thanks anyway.

Originally Posted by donut

You can order a replacement (like above) or if your somewhat handy, bend up your own.

Fuel lines really only need to go from point A to point B. (safely, don't lay it across headers, let it rub on the valve cover, etc) What I do is measure what I need for length, run down to the parts store, grab a straight length of brake line that is made up with the ends, bend away. You may have to get a bender, iirc off of the pump is a 90, little difficult to bend without kinking and no bender. Not really difficult, but can be frustrating. (esp if your looking for a perfect factory look).

Not looking for exact factory just a running truck. That is what I was going to do but I don't have any tools to bend it like I need.

[mrhino]

hands are all you need

[donut]

Most of your big parts houses do stock in-expensive benders that'll do the job.
If you don't mind investing in tools, I liked my set of Ridgid benders (sold them) but much like guys that use Snap-On etc. I needed the benders for work.

I personally haven't had any luck with the "spring" benders that are sold, had one and chucked it into the woods, imo best place for it.
Even if I can get the bend close, I can usually finish it off by hand, forming it around something close to the bend, like a piece of pipe, trailer ball, just look around.

Sometime soon I have to re-do mine also. PO, rather than bend the tubing, replaced the 90 at the pump with a piece of rubber fuel line. Clamped to a small piece of tubing off of the pump and the rest of the factory tubing over the valve cover..

[Car'n'Guitars]

Originally Posted by mrhino

hands are all you need

Originally Posted by donut

Most of your big parts houses do stock in-expensive benders that'll do the job.
If you don't mind investing in tools, I liked my set of Ridgid benders (sold them) but much like guys that use Snap-On etc. I needed the benders for work.

I personally haven't had any luck with the "spring" benders that are sold, had one and chucked it into the woods, imo best place for it.
Even if I can get the bend close, I can usually finish it off by hand, forming it around something close to the bend, like a piece of pipe, trailer ball, just look around.

Sometime soon I have to re-do mine also. PO, rather than bend the tubing, replaced the 90 at the pump with a piece of rubber fuel line. Clamped to a small piece of tubing off of the pump and the rest of the factory tubing over the valve cover..

What are the chances of damaging the tubing in the process?