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Old 09-12-2003, 10:10 PM   #1
1970blazin
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Prep work for applying POR

#1What do I need to do to prep the interior of my blazer to apply POR?
#2 What is the diff between POR-15 and POR-30??
#3 Is this the best way to keep my blazer interior rust free for a LONG time??

I am planning on wirewheel & grinding the rest of the bed to get it clean (I already sandblasted a few areas, and the floorboards and kick panels are all new metal) Then after applying the POR I will probably use some kind of sound deadner (Like dynamat, or Brown Bread) Any advice appreciated!!
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Old 09-12-2003, 10:34 PM   #2
Longhorn Man
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We use the stuff at work, but I have little faith on our methods.
I was getting ready to ask pretty much the same thing.
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Old 09-12-2003, 11:14 PM   #3
Phillip Johnson
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Is that a Corvette steering wheel I see? You have one beautiful Blazer!
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Old 09-12-2003, 11:19 PM   #4
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Phillip- That steering wheel was on the blazer when I bought it, but I don't believe it is off a corvette. I have seen them for sale in parts magazines. If I remember correctly it was a little spendy in the magazine. BTW- the blue in the horn cap matches my blazer color EXACTLY- I was happy when I saw that after paint!
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Old 09-12-2003, 11:26 PM   #5
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Ok, so if there is some paint on the sheet metal, do you have to get it all off, or roughen it up?
What about if there is rust coming through the paint? How about then?
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Old 09-12-2003, 11:51 PM   #6
Fred T
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Re: Prep work for applying POR

Quote:
Originally posted by 1970blazin
#1What do I need to do to prep the interior of my blazer to apply POR?
Grind and wirewheel to remove the loose rust. Clean with an alkali water-base cleaner, they recommend Marine Clean. Then treat with Metal-Ready. http://www.por-15.com/product.asp?productid=6

Quote:
#2 What is the diff between POR-15 and POR-30??
Never heard of POR-30. POR-20 is a high temp aluminum paint.

Quote:
#3 Is this the best way to keep my blazer interior rust free for a LONG time??
I would say yes. However, it is not an easy finish to paint over. You will either have to sand (remember it dries HARD!) or topcoat with their Tie-Coat primer.

Also, if you are going to spray POR-15 products, you must use a NIOSH respirator with an external air supply. The stuff is nasty, it's a cousin to superglue, and will cause permanent lung damage.

Here's what I was told by a dealer about using the POR-15 as a base coat on vehicles.

Por-15 finishes are thick, and do not dry smooth like standard automotive finishes. The thinnest coating is the clear. Apply two coats of the clear, then sand smooth. Apply the Tie Coat primer and sand it smooth. You are then ready for your top coat to be applied.


My feelings on POR-15.

I have been using this product for several years. It is tough to get a smooth finish without spraying. It also dries very hard, and is difficult to sand, especially if you have runs. We've been using it at our museum on parts that are left outside, and have yet to have any rust form on the treated parts. It does perform as advertised, but application is difficult.

I am starting to try other products which are appearing on the market. Zerorust sounds good, but I haven't tried it yet, can't buy it locally. Both Krylon and Rustoleum have paints that encapsulate rust, I've been using them this summer, but don't know about long-term results. They do come in spray cans. there is also a British product Hammerite that comes in a rattle can, again I just started using it this summer.
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Old 09-12-2003, 11:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Longhorn Man
Ok, so if there is some paint on the sheet metal, do you have to get it all off, or roughen it up?
What about if there is rust coming through the paint? How about then?
The POR-15 forms a bond with the metal, sealing out moisture. To obtain the best results, removal of paint is necessary. Removal of loose rust is also needed, followed by cleaning and prepping the surface with Metal Ready, which helps the POR-15 to bond to the surface of the metal.
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Old 09-13-2003, 01:29 AM   #8
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Fred T- Thanks for all the info!! I am not too worried about it drying smooth since I will be sound deadning and carpeting over that. I just don't want the floor or bed to rust. I will be brushing it on, even tho I know it is a messy job I will live eh? Thanks again! I love this board!!!
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Old 09-13-2003, 05:27 AM   #9
jay-dawg
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I have a good question...

They say that the por-15 will deteriorate in sunlight. how bad is the discoloration?

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Old 09-13-2003, 09:11 AM   #10
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jay-dawg
the discoloration is pretty bad almost white...
but even if it discolors it won`t rust,and you can always topcoat.
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Old 09-13-2003, 09:20 AM   #11
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Wear rubber gloves
Dont plan on cleaning your brush
Pour small amounts into a different container.
Seal the Por lid asap with a layer of saran wrap between the can and lid

The stuff goes on like stain on a board, its like the metal absorbs it, pour out very small amounts at a time, it will go alot farther then you think.

remove all paint from surface.

stir don't shake

if you are planning on painting over top, apply a coat of primer when the por is still tacky
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Old 09-13-2003, 10:16 AM   #12
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rust bullet

i asked this on the general discussion board and not many have heard of it. they say rust bullet is better then por and show the tests. only one step and i believe cheaper. anyone tried it? here is their web site http://www.stoprust.net/
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Old 09-13-2003, 11:40 AM   #13
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Wow! That Rust-Bullet looks like it would work better than POR-15. I might give it a try. Thanks!!
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