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Old 09-13-2014, 07:44 PM   #1
vannatta20
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

New updates. Installed a 8.8 ford rear end for cheap but strong limited slip. Also upgraded to a better flowing intake manifold out off a TBSS. Upgraded to 90mm dbw throttle body off a gto as well. Much more responsive and wants to spin the tires all the time.

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Old 09-13-2014, 10:26 PM   #2
Houston Ben
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

What is the difference between the stock manifold vs the TBSS manifold? Also, what year is the GTO TB and did you have to re-tune?
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Old 09-13-2014, 10:42 PM   #3
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

Well its kinda confusing. My new intake is a GEN IV cathedral style head intake. Used on TBSS and all 5.3 and 4.8's. They look much different from the gen3 style and some testing has shown them to make more power than a LS6 intake. Ive read many conflicting tests though. I got mine cheap and wanted to upgrade to the 90mm DBW. It was easy to put a GTO DBW throttle body on mine due to the old style dbw I used(00-02). Same as the corvette. newer 2003-2007 DBW you need a 250$ signal modifer to get a gto throttle body to use.
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Old 09-13-2014, 10:47 PM   #4
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

Ah, got ya. I have 2011 dbw. Thanks!
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Old 09-29-2014, 09:50 AM   #5
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

Did you narrow/widen the 8.8 to center the pumpkin (explorer)? Or did you use a Mustang 8.8?

I'm about to do the same and ditch the 12 bolt boat anchor.
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Old 11-19-2017, 01:06 AM   #6
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

Did you modify the gas tank to run the stock fuel pump or order it this way?
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Old 11-19-2017, 02:48 PM   #7
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

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Did you modify the gas tank to run the stock fuel pump or order it this way?
We modded the carb version of the tank. We just cut a hole to drop the pump down into.
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Old 09-29-2014, 07:46 PM   #8
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

I used a explorer rear but its too narrow. It will require deep dish wheels or 2 inch spacers on each end. I used 2 inch spacers that convert the bolt pattern back to 5x5.
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:24 PM   #9
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

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I used a explorer rear but its too narrow. It will require deep dish wheels or 2 inch spacers on each end. I used 2 inch spacers that convert the bolt pattern back to 5x5.
no such thing as too narrow...
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:49 PM   #10
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

Yeah it's 2 inches narrower, but it's an off center pumpkin so you would have had to take 2 15/16 off the long end to center it up.

That's what I do to fit them in car swaps. Other option would be drilling the plug on the short side, and putting 2 long tubes and it would be 2" longer than the 12 bolt
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Old 09-30-2014, 12:27 AM   #11
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

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Old 09-30-2014, 12:29 AM   #12
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

Pic above is the 8.8 versus 12 bolt length. Its almost 4 inches less in width.



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Old 09-30-2014, 08:11 AM   #13
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

Did you center the pumpkin or is the 12 bolt not a centered pumpkin either? Hard to tell in pics.
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Old 09-30-2014, 10:21 AM   #14
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

Its offset 2 1/4 inches i believe. I had to cut open the rear crossmember a bit since the driveshaft would hit it with the offset pumpkin
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Old 09-30-2014, 10:53 AM   #15
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

Thanks I have yet to measure my 12 bolt, but the factory 96-00 explorer rear ends are offset 2 15/16 to the passenger side. I was just curious if the 12 bolt it similarly offset from the factory. Otherwise the long tube on the 8.8 needs to be cut down 2 15/16 and use the short axle shaft on both sides. Or vice versa if you want it to be longer. -only required if you need to center the pumpkin depending on the vehicle it's going into.

Did you weld on new u bolt perches to it?
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Old 10-01-2014, 12:11 AM   #16
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

Yep I welded new perches on. It would be best to put long axles on best sides.
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Old 10-15-2014, 02:03 PM   #17
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

finally getting started on my lq4 swap....got DD mounts otw....did you have any issues with cab clearances? now im being told to not go the DD 73+ mount way lol
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Old 10-15-2014, 02:13 PM   #18
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

I ended up buying !@# mounts.

I couldn't imagine spending $240 on motor mounts as I usually make my own, but these are beautiful, and heavy duty!!!
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Old 10-15-2014, 03:51 PM   #19
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

With DD M mounts everything fit in my 78 including the driveshaft, just had to move the rear X member
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Old 10-15-2014, 03:53 PM   #20
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

forgot to mention i have a 69. with the added extra inch from using the 73+ stuff and a 4l80 trans i was told id have cab issues.....
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Old 11-30-2014, 09:02 AM   #21
zteca
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

I am actually having problems with DD mounts, I measured the engine angle to be 7 degrees pointing downward.if I lift the transmission to get 3 degrees, pointing downward, it will hit the cab. By the way I am using the same clamshell rubber mounts vannatta but using a 1980 front crossmember, could that be why and is 7 degrees too much?
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Old 11-30-2014, 10:21 AM   #22
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

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I am actually having problems with DD mounts, I measured the engine angle to be 7 degrees pointing downward.if I lift the transmission to get 3 degrees, pointing downward, it will hit the cab. By the way I am using the same clamshell rubber mounts vannatta but using a 1980 front crossmember, could that be why and is 7 degrees too much?
Are you using the factory high hump trans cover?
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Old 11-30-2014, 11:20 AM   #23
zteca
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

It's the low hump but I will also need a new rear cross member. When I lift the transmission to the -3 degrees the drive shaft will hit the rear cross memeber. Is there away to lower the engine instead? Thanks
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Old 12-13-2014, 12:55 AM   #24
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

Did u have to notch the frame to run the AC lines?
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Old 12-24-2014, 10:53 AM   #25
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Re: 1968 C10 5.3 swap, the easy way.

I did not need to notch the frame for the ac line . I used factory 5.3 ac lines. I had one line cut and welded to get a better angle.
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