1950 Project - Part 2

[72ArizonaBurb]

Guys I purchased this truck from a fellow board member (50ADRod) and I have decided to start a new thread since these threads are somewhat personal and you start to develop long lasting friendships on these forums. Here is link to 50 Project (part 1) if you are interested and want to see all 50ADRod's hard work.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=296770

[_Ogre]

like what you've done to already.
dash fits like it was meant to be there.

did 50ADRod throw in the cardboard console?
can we trash talk him in this thread for abandoning a cool truck to work on cars? j/k

[50adrod]

Subscribed, Keith you are doing great work on the truck it will come out awesome. I also love the dash and your attention to detail

[50adrod]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

did 50ADRod throw in the cardboard console?
can we trash talk him in this thread for abandoning a cool truck to work on cars? j/k

sure I don't mind, I just passed the project on. the cardboard console mock up did not last long in the Louisiana humidity.
I wish I had your fiberglass skills.
Hey, I still have two Chevy trucks






Now back to Keith's progress

[Wybrow]

Very very excited to see where this goes.

[Rude Dude]

All of them are sweet but I like the 34 or 35 the most

[Dieselwrencher]

Love the dash and sweet project!

[72ArizonaBurb]

Not much to report lately. I have been working on getting the disc brakes installed, the drive shaft measured so it can be cut. I will probably paint the frame again before installing the brake lines. Bought all new rubber seals from Steele who had a both at the Goodguys car show. 15% off if you bought during the show. I know there stuff is top notch so that one less thing I need. To bad I won't be putting it on for another 6 months or so.

[72ArizonaBurb]

I have been cleaning parts and preping them for paint. Got the transmission crossmember cleaned up and welded a few re-inforcement pieces on it. Painted it and got it installed. Also removed the old battery box and installed a new drop down unit. Then I took it off so I could paint the frame. Removed the fuel lines, fuel tank, brake rotors etc and cleaned and painted the frame.

[72ArizonaBurb]

I made templates for all my brake lines using some copper wire I found on the side of the road a few years back. After making all the bends I took everything to the local shop (master cylinder, wheel cylinders, pressure valves) where they make brake lines/hydrolic hose etc. There is a new product out for brake lines that is very easy to bend by hand. It's almost as plyable as the copper line. They put all the flare nuts and correct size fittings and it cost about $60. This was cheaper than buying 1 tool to flare it myself. They said all the automotive guys and going to this new system because it's so easy it work with. I hope to install it tomorrow.

[72ArizonaBurb]

I got the brake lines installed today with the exception of connecting the rear lines to the calipers. I need 2 banjo bolts and a special adapter to attach the rigid lines to. The parts house was out of them on Friday. These brake lines were very easy to work with. I highly recommend them.

[rickerwill]

I would be interested in hearing more about this innovative brake line material, Keith. My son and I are just about at that stage with the '50 Chevy we are building, so any info on the material and who is selling it would be appreciated. I am amazed you got all the bending, flaring and fitting of the connections done for only $60. I definitely need to check this out!

[72ArizonaBurb]

I went by the shop again this past week and ask them what the product is called. The guy said it was made from copper and nickel (I beleive) but he did not give me the trade name. If you would like to call them and speak with them personally here is the number: Clarksville Fastners (931) 553-8697

You wont believe how easy this is to work with. Even after having them made and during the install I needed to re-route the front brake lines due to clearance issues with the p.s. lines and it was no problem.

I found this link when searching for the brake line material on line. This looks like the same material.

http://www.fedhillusa.com/

[72ArizonaBurb]

Got the drive shaft cut down. Bought a universal joint to go from a Chevy drive shaft to a Ford 9" rear end and installed for a test fit. I then pulled it out and cleaned and painted it. I won't intall it permanetly until I set the rear end angle with the transmission and weld the saddle brackets on the rear end.

[focusedontheprize]

Your making some great progress. I am probably 3 weeks away from bending up brake lines, I appreciate the info on the material.

Are you taking these pictures with an iPhone (going by the dimensions). If so, you can actually rotate the photos through the iPhone Photo App now by clicking 'Edit' and rotating it with the arrow in the bottom left corner. 95% of my pictures I take with my 4s so I figured that out a little while ago.

What angle are you setting your pinion angle at? Just set my two weeks ago at +3.

[Russell Ashley]

Originally Posted by rickerwill

I would be interested in hearing more about this innovative brake line material, Keith. My son and I are just about at that stage with the '50 Chevy we are building, so any info on the material and who is selling it would be appreciated. I am amazed you got all the bending, flaring and fitting of the connections done for only $60. I definitely need to check this out!

I believe that's the same thing I used on my truck. I bought pre-flared lines at NAPA. I was going to buy steel lines and they recommended this instead. It comes in so many different lengths that I only had to cut and re-flare it a couple of times when I replaced all of my brake lines. The NAPA lines come with a greenish plastic coating to protect them from the elements. I probably spent more that $60 on mine though.

[72ArizonaBurb]

focusedontheprize thanks for the photo tip. I am using an android phone not an I-phone. I hate when the pictures are turned the wrong way but don't know how to fix that on my phone.

I'm not sure about the pinion angle yet. I printed out the info from another board member and have that for future reference. Do you think a 110 volt mig welder is large enough to weld the saddle brackets to the rear end tubes? I can't decide if I need to borrow a larger welder or use an old stick welder my dad had. I don't have welding experience outside of sheet metal repair.

[oldcouple]

Originally Posted by 72ArizonaBurb

I went by the shop again this past week and ask them what the product is called. The guy said it was made from copper and nickel (I beleive) but he did not give me the trade name. If you would like to call them and speak with them personally here is the number: Clarksville Fastners (931) 553-8697

You wont believe how easy this is to work with. Even after having them made and during the install I needed to re-route the front brake lines due to clearance issues with the p.s. lines and it was no problem.

I found this link when searching for the brake line material on line. This looks like the same material.

http://www.fedhillusa.com/

My body shop guy showed me this stuff last week, you can tie it in a knot by hand and it still works.

[ricott]

How's your project? Thanks for posting pictures of your dash install. Looking forward to seeing more progress pictures.

[72ArizonaBurb]

Originally Posted by ricott

How's your project? Thanks for posting pictures of your dash install. Looking forward to seeing more progress pictures.

Sorry I haven't posted and progress in a while. I took about 7 months off from working on the project. I have started back but not getting much time to work on it. Here is a picture of the body work in progess. I am going to get the cab body work done then move on to the hood and fenders.

[72ArizonaBurb]

Finally got the 1st round of body work done and high primed it today. Hopefully I can pick up some momentum and get back to working on the truck more often. It doesn't seem to glamorus to be posting pictures of priming

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work! Primer for me is a turning point! It's better than 50 diff colors, and shows you are actually doing some thing.

[72ArizonaBurb]

I finished block sanding the cab over the last few days. I have few small spots that still need some work but at least I'm making progress.

[72ArizonaBurb]

While taking a break from wet sanding I decided to work on filling the gap in the speedometer pod since I won't be using a stock steering column from a 59 Impala. I made a pattern out of paper then transfered it to a piece of metal stock and cut it out using tin snips. I then took a grinder and finish fit it. I cut a piece of metal screen mesh and JB Welded it to the inside of the speedo housing. I did this to give more strength and to have something for the JB Weld to hold to when I put the piece of metal in place with JB Weld also. I let this cure over night then ground down with some 100 grit sandpaper. I then filled and contoured the radius using Z-Grip filler. Sanded to shape then feathered in with some 220 grit. Sanded all the other gauge clusters and now they are ready for priming.

[72ArizonaBurb]

More pics