1979 2wd Chevy CCSB aka old man

[Leedogg]

good looking finish.

[gmech]

I finally was able to get my frame sand blasted and painted this week. A freind of a freind let me use his BIG air compressor and sand blaster. I started to with my small sand blaster and compressor, but it was just taking too much time. So I blasted Wenesday night and painted it Thursday. I am really happy with the epoxy paint that I am using. Time will tell how good it holds up. One problem with is that you have to mix it 3:1 with a hardener and then let it "sweat in" for about an hour. Once you mix it you have to use it within a certain amount of time. So both times that Ive used it I have had to toss out more than half of what Ive mixed. It took about a quart to do my frame.

[gmech]

Here's a couple of pics

[gmech]

Were I z-cut and sectioned my frame, I chose to plate on both sides. The outer plate has 5, 3/4" holes plug welded.

[joe231]

That's looks awesome!!

How does the price of that Sher Tar compare to POR15?

Can it be brushed on?
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[gmech]

Joe, it comes in 3 gallons Sher-Tar and 1 gallon hardener. I also bought a gallon of reducer that you can thin it out with. It was just under $ 200 for everthing, but you can do alot with it. I have only used a little more than a quart to do my frame and rearend. But I mixed way more than I needed to. You can brush it or roll it. I rolled most of my frame, some places I had to brush. Looks best when you roll it.
I found out about this stuff from a guy who was going to sandblast and paint my frame. He does alot of oil rig and county road commission trucks etc and says this is the best. If you werent so far away I'd hook you up with some. I'm just trying to fiqure out what else Im going to use this on. It says the shelf life is only 1yr, unopened.

[gmech]

One other thing, you can paint it right onto clean bare metal. No primer needed.

[joe231]

Wow
That sounds awesome.
Is it UV resistant?

I'll have to do some checking up here to see if anyone carries it.

I'll be looking forward to how it holds up for you down the road.
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[gmech]

I could'nt find anything on UV resistance. The product info says its for use on: penstocks,dam gates,offshore oil rigs, non-potable water tanks and pipe coating,marine applications and heavy duty industrial coating etc. Chemical resistant,corrosion and abrasion resistant.. Sorry I dont know how scan or I would scan the info i have. If you have a Sherwin Williams store Im sure you could get the info from them.
I am going to paint my gantry that I built last year in the next week or two. I leave it outdoors so I should get a pretty good idea it changes colors on me this summer.

[joe231]

Cool!

Sounds like it is formulated for outdoor use so that's good!
Thanks for the info, I appreciate it greatly
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[bucannon]

hey man if you dont mind i want to see more pictures about your frame shortening. and details about it too. it looks solid!

[gmech]

If you look at my #5 post there is a pic of the frame cut and clamp togather before welding. Between the cab and axle, you need to cut out 14". What I did was to measure out 21" and make lines at 7" intervals. Than I marked my center line horizontally. Cut out the center 7", and than cut out one top and one bottom section from the front and rear frame rails. Pull it togather, check for level and square. And weld it. I used some scrap steel pieces to clamp on the top bottom and sides. I am not a pro welder so I hade my neighbor who is do it for me. Hope this helps

[gmech]

Here is a couple more pics

[gmech]

I finally have all my chassis parts back from powdercoating. I know its taken awhile, but as far as cost goes I've got less than $100 into it. I know this project is taking longer the I had originally planned, but I am doing it so that it should be a new or as damn close to new truck once I am finished, maybe better I hope. I am not going to all the detail to have a show truck, I just figured I might as well do it right the first time. Every time I start to do something I look at it and think why not wait and do it once and be done with it. And in no way am I trying to critisize anyone on this site who have done there trucks projects differently.
My latest change has been to use a Cummins diesel rather than a 6.0 gas or a Duramax. I came to this conclusion for the mere fact of cost, reliability, fuel economy, power etc, etc. The only reason that I had now opted for this is because of how noisey a Cummins was. But common sence has finally kicked in.

[gmech]

What have you guys used to paint your leaf springs with? I have thought about using the S.W. product that i used on my frame, but its thick and does not lay smooth. The other thing that I am going to do is use a AOL with less rear springs and a air bag with a lower rate spring up front, or a full airbag in the front. I still want the stock ride height and capacity but the improved ride if possible. Any thoughts?

[v30crewcab]

tractor supply carries some paint here for leaf springs that is slippery. has graphite in it. thats what I'd use for the springs.

[gmech]

Originally Posted by v30crewcab

tractor supply carries some paint here for leaf springs that is slippery. has graphite in it. thats what I'd use for the springs.

Cool, I'll have to stop by our local TSC and pick some up.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work on your frame, it looks awesome! Glad to hear you're going with a Cummins. You can quiet down the truck with sound deadener if you're that worried about it. I have customers who have 24v trucks and you can't hear them in the cab unless you turn the radio off and listen for it. It's crazy!

[gmech]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice work on your frame, it looks awesome! Glad to hear you're going with a Cummins. You can quiet down the truck with sound deadener if you're that worried about it. I have customers who have 24v trucks and you can't hear them in the cab unless you turn the radio off and listen for it. It's crazy!

Yeh, I dont know what took so long to make that decission. But its the right one none the less. I havent found a swap kit yet, or is easy enough to make your own. I need to start reading up on others swaps. Probably easiest with a complete truck, or can I get away with a complete motor/trans and wiring?

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by gmech

Yeh, I dont know what took so long to make that decission. But its the right one none the less. I havent found a swap kit yet, or is easy enough to make your own. I need to start reading up on others swaps. Probably easiest with a complete truck, or can I get away with a complete motor/trans and wiring?

You can piece it together if you'd like to mix it up. Find a complete 1989-1993 VE12v with the accessories. Then find a 47rh from a 1994 or 95 dodge cummins and rebuild it if you don't find a good one. You will need the engine adapter from a 94-02 5.9. You can build your engine mounts seeing how you have good fab skills. The injection pump on a VE is 1 wire ignition hot, the starter has one besides battery source, the alt can be wired using an external regulator from a 78 or so dodge truck and this is only 2 wires. That's a basic quick run down for you.

[yousesteers]

It is not hard and there are lots of websites out there with Ideas and several swaps on this one DieselWrencher has one, I have one, there is on in a Suburban and a few others, I bought my motor because I was in a hurry to get my truck running. I used a P-Pump from a 1996 bought a complete truck then used what I needed and sold some parts then scraped what was left.