Rivets or bolts?

[Mr_Rich]

I'm rebuilding the drivetrain on my '89 Chev K1500 EC. I'm stripping/ cleaning some of the parts and supports and painting them with POR-15. The crossmember that is directly behind the torsion bar support is riveted to the frame with four rivets. I've been cleaning the waxy undercoat/ rust/ dirt off this crossmember and I was thinking it would be easier to grind the rivets and remove it with the idea of bolting it in afterwards. Anyone have an opinion regarding this idea? Would I be compromising the frame strength and would it be advisable to add some gussets if I do remove the rivets on this crossmember? (This crossmember/ support is used for a carrier bearing with a two-piece driveshaft.) My truck uses the one-piece driveshaft.

[OLDCHEV4X4]

I've removed hundred's of rivets and replaced them with bolts. Never had a problem. Make sure the bolt fights snug in the hole. I drill the rivet hole out with a 11mm drill and use a 7/16-20 grade 8 bolt. Flat washers on both sides and blue lock-tight. Torque to 60-80 ft lbs.
Have fun....removing rivets suck!

[mcmlxix]

I second the correct fit grade 8 bolts and lock-tite.

[Mr_Rich]

Thanks! I'll resume work on my truck this week and I'll take your advice.

[x ReAcT x]

I know its only been a week but any updates or pictures i would love to see what the frame looks like after

[Mr_Rich]

My work on my truck has slowed for the moment. I'm old and it's 100 degrees outside. I did remove the crossmember finally. I ground/ and drilled the rivets flush and then pounded them out. I power wire-brushed the crossmember this evening. I should be able to etch it with CLR tomorrow in prep for POR-15. I bought a set of ARP 7/16x1 bolts to connect to the frame when I'm done. That's where it's at for now.

[x ReAcT x]

Originally Posted by Mr_Rich

My work on my truck has slowed for the moment. I'm old and it's 100 degrees outside. I did remove the crossmember finally. I ground/ and drilled the rivets flush and then pounded them out. I power wire-brushed the crossmember this evening. I should be able to etch it with CLR tomorrow in prep for POR-15. I bought a set of ARP 7/16x1 bolts to connect to the frame when I'm done. That's where it's at for now.

I did the same thing for painting the crosmember. I used the expensive "marine clean" and "metal ready" that i bought off the por15 website and then painted two coats of por15 and then topcoated two coats with chassis black por15. It turned out perfect. Youll enjoy the results.

[x ReAcT x]

i should have just used CLR, i would have saved money

[Mr_Rich]

I originally started using a product called Metal Etch that I was able to buy at hardware stores. I can't find the product any more. CLR is similar and slightly weaker but succeeds in prepping the metal surface for painting. I've been using POR-15 like this for many years. It holds up better than most products I've found in a spray can. Standard Brands used to sell big spray cans of black urethane that I painted the engine compartment in my old Firebird. That stuff held up over time (20+ years), but it's long gone. Paint formulations change over time and a lot of products don't exist any more.