1968

[Mustard72]

I agree. You shouldn't need both mounting brackets. Here's a picture of the setup on Mustard before I took it all apart. I thought I had some better pics of it, but apparently not.

[Mustard72]

Oops. Here's the pic.

[Xeen]

gdavis;
In the lower LH position of the brake booster bracket there is supposed to be a special raised section where your steering column firewall bracket fits under it then you put a bolt through it to hold it securely in place.

[gdavis]

Today, I removed the second bracket and mounted it to the fire wall. I went to the welding shop today and they are making me a set of brackets. Whickis really not brackets. They are a wedge or a tri angle out of alumium. 1/2 inch thick by 3/4 wide and 4 1/4 inches tall. When I am done it will set level and against the fire wall. New booster 59.95, set of alumium angles 10.00. I only have a spacer for now. It gave me the distances to measure. The angles will be done in a day or two. Then I welded my rod out of the booster with the rodunder the dash. It fits great. I will post pictures of the end result maybe Wednesday or Thursday.

[gdavis]

In picture number four on this post is the brake pedal with two holes in it. Does the rod fit into the top hole or the bottom. I also ran my small lines to the p-valve. The small lines are made out of nickle, bronze and steel. Which makes bending a snap.
Since this truck did not come with a 350 what fuel pump do I use? I have a two line pumo and a three line pump. But I don't like the slip on lines. On both pumps. Do they make a pump that has threads for all lines? I think it would be better than the slip hose and do away with a future leaking problem.

[mjensen]

Looking great!

[Maddoxdb]

Coming along nice. When I went to get a fuel pump for my blazer at o'reillys they didn't have the one with 3 lines. On their system the 3 line is listed for auto trans trucks and 2 line is listed for manual trans. I used the 2 line as that is what was on mine already. The 3rd port is a return line to the tank to relieve excess pressure. Dustin
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[Xeen]

If you plan to run without emissions then the 2 line pump is what you need, as far as plumbing the return line I would use metal fuel line for the majority and the best quality 5/16" hose you can get for sections that need connections.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

If you plan to run without emissions then the 2 line pump is what you need, as far as plumbing the return line I would use metal fuel line for the majority and the best quality 5/16" hose you can get for sections that need connections.

I have them both. A three line and a two line. Just wanted to know what would be better?

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

If you plan to run without emissions then the 2 line pump is what you need, as far as plumbing the return line I would use metal fuel line for the majority and the best quality 5/16" hose you can get for sections that need connections.

I'll go to the parts depot tomorrow. Or what we locals call advance auto. A real small place. if I need some parts changes are they will have to order them. But that is one of the draw backs of living in a small town.

[gdavis]

Today, I worked on the dry fit of the steering colum. I am not going to use the one I have in the truck. I am not totally concerned with this one. I will be getting a tilt in the future. Going to get it running and then I'll see. I did clean and paint the colum. This was a person want get all dirty working on it.

Hey guys how do a person get the fire wall boot over the colum shifter????? I tried and riped it so now I have to get another one. There got to be something I am doing wrong. Like holding my mouth wrong or bitting my lower lip.??????????????????????????????????????

Here it is Tuesday and I am no furter alone than I was last week. I did figure out the brake booster though.

[Xeen]

gdavis;
It's time to suck it up and buy a tilt column from CPP, besides $350 isn't that much money and you will be a lot happier anyway, call and ask for Jeff Norton at CPP for a 10% discount, tell him you are a member of 67-72chevytrucks.com that will knock $35 off the cost of the column.
To answer your question you will need to remove the splined steering shaft to get the new boot on.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

gdavis;
It's time to suck it up and buy a tilt column from CPP, besides $350 isn't that much money and you will be a lot happier anyway, call and ask for Jeff Norton at CPP for a 10% discount, tell him you are a member of 67-72chevytrucks.com that will knock $35 off the cost of the column.
To answer your question you will need to remove the splined steering shaft to get the new boot on.

As far as me sucking it up. I do a lot of sucking it up as it is. My wife is starting to question my motives. But I will get another colum but not today. But before I drive it I will. This colum is a learning tool. If I am to stratch a colum I like it be this one.

[gdavis]

Today, I sand blasted the new perches that Rick sent me. Thanks so much Rick. I primed and painted them black. So tomorrow I will mount them on the engine. I also mounted the new E-brake off of the 72 on the 68 cab. I like the foot brake style better. The only thing is I need to know where the E brake cable come thru the fire wall. Will I have to drill a hole for the E-brake cable and how about the gromit. What does it look like. Rick can you take a picture of yours and where it comes thru the fire wall and post in on my site.

[gdavis]

more pictures

[Mustard72]

Good job, George. Those look a lot nicer than the greasy blobs I put in the mail.

Here's the best pic of the drivers side of the firewall area I took before disassembling Mustard. I believe that's the parking brake cable coming through the firewall to the right of the electrical plug block. It drops down onto the inner fender and runs down to the frame rails under the brake booster.

If you have your parking brake pedal assembly together inside the cab, it basically goes straight through the firewall from the connection point from the pedal assembly. Here's a pic of that, too.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Mustard72

Good job, George. Those look a lot nicer than the greasy blobs I put in the mail.

Here's the best pic of the drivers side of the firewall area I took before disassembling Mustard. I believe that's the parking brake cable coming through the firewall to the right of the electrical plug block. It drops down onto the inner fender and runs down to the frame rails under the brake booster.

If you have your parking brake pedal assembly together inside the cab, it basically goes straight through the firewall from the connection point from the pedal assembly. Here's a pic of that, too.

Yea their was a lot of grease under the bottom of the perches but a litter elbo grease and a sand blaster and paint looks like new. Thanks so much

[Xeen]

My firewall is clear I will try to get some pictures for you providing it doesn't rain all day.
Did you get both cable brackets with the assembly or are they missing?

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

My firewall is clear I will try to get some pictures for you providing it doesn't rain all day.
Did you get both cable brackets with the assembly or are they missing?

I got the bracket that attached to the parking brake itself. Also the bracket that holds the cable to the parking brake. Is there any more that I don't know of. Also can I remove the bracket that the old e brake handle attached to? Under the colum. It seams to ride a litter low. I guess it always rode that low. But you never seen it with the e brake handle installed. Please sent me a picture of yours also. Maybe it is clearier. I see in his picture that he has a support brackety to the booster. Should I mount one? Do anyone have such a bracket arm that they are not going to use? If so I would love to have it.

[Xeen]

The firewall has a rectangular shaped hole for the gromet which is already attached to the new cable you will have to buy so order the new cable then measure for the hole you will need to cut.
If you already have the cable but the gromet is missing then just order a new gromet.
You can see the two cable brackets I am refering to in the picture.

[67cheby]

nice clean work, that steering column boot is tough !

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

nice clean work, that steering column boot is tough !

It's easy when you have the special service tools required to remove and instal the shift tube
I don't think he intends to use that column though so it would be a waste of money to buy them.

[gdavis]

Today, I helped a friend work on his solar pannels for his swiming pool. So I did not get to work on my truck. But, I did enjoy talking to a fellow board member today. I learned a lot with that phone call. Thanks Bryan. I ordered the grommet, the brake pedal release handle, the pad for the parking brake, a pad for the foot brake. So this way they all will match. This truck is going to look diamite when I am finshed. If the good Lord is willing and the creek don't rise. The picture does show me a lot. I hope to have the brake pedal all nocked up tomorrow morning. The weather is getting real hot here 86today.

I think my parking brake return spring is broken or weak. It doesn't return to the up right position. I will have to work on that before I land.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by gdavis

I think my parking brake return spring is broken or weak. It doesn't return to the up right position.

The return spring is built into the front cable on the 69-72 (foot operated version), if you are trying to use the 67-68 cable (hand operated version) it wont work properly and you will need to buy the correct cable.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

The return spring is built into the front cable on the 69-72 (foot operated version), if you are trying to use the 67-68 cable (hand operated version) it wont work properly and you will need to buy the correct cable.

Yea I see what you are saying. So I will get the right cable from a friend that has several of these truck in his bone yard.