1949 Chevy 3600 into a daily driver

[Nut Case]

Coach

Looks great, gona have to dust off my old thumper and do some cow trailing this year.

What muffler and what length ?

Nut Case

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Nut Case

Coach

Looks great, gona have to dust off my old thumper and do some cow trailing this year.

What muffler and what length ?

Nut Case

They are Porter Mufflers. Not sure what length.

I was hoping to get them a little further back but ran out of pipe.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Catching some air there!

What about an exit through the running board?

I have given that some thought. I need to reread you thread to see how you plan on doing it!!

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by Coach529

I have given that some thought. I need to reread you thread to see how you plan on doing it!!

Sorry, forgot to mention you did really nice work on the header mod!

Basically I copied Bob from Minooka and Marc. I may post more details tonight showing the mufflers and flex connection between muffler exit pipe and tail pipe. Since your boards lay flat, you will need a thinner exhaust outlet than what I used. Probably like the first set I tried that are now in the swap meet pile.

Anyway, today I stumbled across a pic of Marc's exhaust tip in another thread.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Sorry, forgot to mention you did really nice work on the header mod!

Basically I copied Bob from Minooka and Marc. I may post more details tonight showing the mufflers and flex connection between muffler exit pipe and tail pipe. Since your boards lay flat, you will need a thinner exhaust outlet than what I used. Probably like the first set I tried that are now in the swap meet pile.

Anyway, today I stumbled across a pic of Marc's exhaust tip in another thread.

Thanks for the picture. I have been doing some searching for the perfect rectangle outlet, but I have not found one yet.

I like the idea of a chunk of flex pipe.

[Nut Case]

Coach

Just as I thought, my son used Porters on his 55 F-100 attached to a stroked 292 to 331, dyno ed at 337 ft/lbs. And the sound through the Porters is off the charts. Hoping you record the start up through the Porters and share.

What diameter pipe and length of muffler?

Thanks

Nut Case

P.S. going to call my son to see if he has a recording of the start up of his Y-block/porter combo. If so I'll let ya know.

[Advanced Design]

That is a cool idea, and similar to one I am considering after my first battery box mounting fail.

Looks good Coach!

[Coach529]

I did not want it in the cab anymore. I thought hard about a drop down box, but in the end this was just really easy.

[lower50's]

Sweet touch

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by lower50's

Sweet touch

Thanks!!

[youngrodder]

Yes, cool idea. Thanks for the pics

Marc

[Coach529]

Still plugging away. I get a lot of questions from friends, co-workers asking when Henry will be on the road. Last week I told a guy "A couple good long days and he will be on the road". Either I am a crappy estimator or a crappy mechanic.

Probably about 10 hour into the truck the last two days.

Brake lines done and ready for fluid!!



Rear shock mounts built and painted.





Punch list is getting smaller. Local car show in two weeks. Trying to decide if I make the commitment to get it done!!

[99 to Life]

deadlines suck, don't let them get to you if you miss it. make the date, if you miss, make another. This stuff takes way longer than most people think. I think I'v stated that about a million times in my life.

[Coach529]

One step forward.....two steps backs. Ha, seems to be a reoccurring theme.

Some steps forward last night. Pulled the tail off the TH350 and replaced the seals in it. Button that all back up and bolted on my driveshaft. I also pulled my pan on the TH350 ad replaced the filter.

After that there was a step backwards. I filled the tranny and started the motor to check the tranny fluid level. All seems fine. For kicks I checked the engine oil. Oil was really milky. DAMN.

When I did my initial start up I had a couple bolt on the passenger side rear of the intake that were weeping. I am guessing I forgot to do the second pass of the 25ft/lb torque for them. I tightened them up, the weeping stopped and I continued on with the start up. I am wondering if that leak also weeped inside......or do I have another problem?

I dumped the startup oil. I did not have a fresh filter, but I topped it off with fresh oil and let it run for 15 minutes and dumped it again. Still milky, but not near as bad.

Picked up a couple new filters this morning on the way to work.

Not sure if this is all residual water from the initial leak or if I should start digging into finding another leak.

Any advice??

[99 to Life]

Did you seal the threads on your head bolts? They can be retorqued, or atleast try that as well. Could be a slight leak in the head gasket, or..... maybe a cracked head. 062's were good for that I think (don't quote me and I think I recall that is what you have).
Its just a SBC, cheap and easy fixes for the most part, but yeah def don't want an engine issue now. been there done that, I have problems at the worst times imaginable.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

Did you seal the threads on your head bolts? They can be retorqued, or atleast try that as well. Could be a slight leak in the head gasket, or..... maybe a cracked head. 062's were good for that I think (don't quote me and I think I recall that is what you have).
Its just a SBC, cheap and easy fixes for the most part, but yeah def don't want an engine issue now. been there done that, I have problems at the worst times imaginable.

Head bolts were sealed and I followed the torque routine to the T........

I really doubt the heads are cracked. They came from a reputable source. If they are cracked he will take care of me no questions asked.

Bottom line......absolutely nothing to stress over. Should be an easy fix.........just another thing on the list!!

[joedoh]

ugh I hate dehydrating a motor. I had a 4.3 with bad intake gaskets and the oil change procedure was nuts, 4 full changes and filters before leaving it alone.

[Advanced Design]

That is a bummer and noticed the discussion on FB. Looks like you are on way to a good fix.

[Coach529]

I took some time this afternoon doing a pressure test on the cooling system. I cobbled together some pipe fittings and a pressure gauge.

Held pressure for well over and hour both with the motor hot and cold.

I changed the oil and filter 2 times and now it appears to be dried out......

[Coach529]

Solid couple of days. My trailer fenders arrived to make rear wheel tubs. I cut them down with a skinny wheel with a guide. Would out great!





Installed



Patina'd





MC bench bled and bled the rest of the brakes.



List is getting shorter!!

[mongocanfly]

Short list=excitement..

[oldman3]

Man, things rust fast in your part of the country , looks good...Jim

[lower50's]

Congrats on the first movement under power. The trailer fenders you used look just like the ones I used. It took me 4 different times to get the all the air out, then found my rear drums where way out of adjustment.

[99 to Life]

congrats on all the work. The vacuum shouldn't haven much to do with the spongy feeling pedal, all that does is make it easy to press down. I'd bleeeeed the brakes over and over. Also the prop valve needs to be for correct setup and sometimes the bore in those MC make a big difference. I'd also think once you get a harder pedal, your engine should pull more than 10-12 vacuum. I'd play with timing and idle and honestly if you have an edelbrock, put the vac advance on the drivers side FULL ported vacuum. The Pass side is partial port and was more of a smog era deal, so you prolly aren't getting enough timing to pull good vacuum. Sounds strange but the more it revs at low RPM the vacuum will move up until a certain point, say 20hg and then it drops back to zero. Just try the vac advance and I bet you will notice a difference.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

congrats on all the work. The vacuum shouldn't haven much to do with the spongy feeling pedal, all that does is make it easy to press down. I'd bleeeeed the brakes over and over. Also the prop valve needs to be for correct setup and sometimes the bore in those MC make a big difference. I'd also think once you get a harder pedal, your engine should pull more than 10-12 vacuum. I'd play with timing and idle and honestly if you have an edelbrock, put the vac advance on the drivers side FULL ported vacuum. The Pass side is partial port and was more of a smog era deal, so you prolly aren't getting enough timing to pull good vacuum. Sounds strange but the more it revs at low RPM the vacuum will move up until a certain point, say 20hg and then it drops back to zero. Just try the vac advance and I bet you will notice a difference.

I have great pedal feel with the truck not running. Once the truck is started the pedal seems to go soft, spongy. I order a vacuum canister and a reverse bleeding tool. They will be here tomorrow and I will try and address the issue.

Vac advance is set up on the FULL ported vacuum on the carb.