Outside storage

[biohazardbill]

What is the best way to store a vehicle outside. I need some room in my garage to work so I have to move one of my projects outside. It has no drivetrain so that is a bonus however would like to protect it the best I cn without building a shelter. I live in central GA so the winder has been mild so far so its mostly chilly weather and rain. It will be on asphalt.

I didnt see a forum for anything like this so I apologize if this is in the wrong spot, however it is a 66 so I figured I would ask here.

[ABX131]

A costco carport with walls for about $200.

[MikeS.]

ABX131, can you give a link to that $200 carport? I searched and the cheapest is 1,300. Thanks!
Posted via Mobile Device

[63burban4x4]

many vendors sell a pipe-frame, poly tarp type of shelter large enough for a car, for about $200. Try Northern Hyd., or Costco, or Harbor Freight? Also seen them in camper supply type places....shouldn't be too hard to find. You can usually add poly side curtains for additional cost.
You see these often, usually they have a white covering and white, powder coated pole frame. Unfortunately, they don't work in snow country, (I've learned that the hard way ) but they should work fine where it doesn't snow. Good idea to stake them down, though, the wind will turn them into a flying projectile.....might be hard to do on an asphalt surface, but I've seen them tied down to heavy blocks also.

They do tend to add a certain ambiance to the front yard, especially if the vehicle is up on blocks, as well!

[biohazardbill]

I was thinking more like kind of tarps to wrap in or maybe even just a car cover. We already have a 12x24 structure in our driveway with one burb in it, wife would kill me if I put up anther structure in the yard. I can put on dirt/grass too if that is better bit I dont see how it would be.

[Clyde65]

If it is a burb, you can bring it my house!

[63burban4x4]

be careful using just tarps....moisture can rise up under the vehicle, and actually get trapped under the tarp with no way out, making it "rain" inside. I think just a cover over the top, with open sides might avoid that condition. My brother once tarped a beautiful 59 chevy outside for the winter, carefully bringing the doubled up tarps down to the ground, and securing them at the bottom. When he removed the tarps in the spring, moisture had attacked the car from inside the tarps, and ruined the paint job.
I've seen some kind of "bag" that you drive the vehicle into and seal it up, but I have no idea where to find one, or how well it would work outside.

[biohazardbill]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

If it is a burb, you can bring it my house!

It is.... Will all the body work be done when I pick it up, if so it may be worth the trek lol.

[biohazardbill]

Well if I were to do a carport in the box, it would have to be out back somewhere so maybe thats not a bad idea. It would just be on grass/ground. Keep in mind this wont be out for long periods of time, just until I can get some things done on another project.

[ABX131]

This is what I am talking about..got mine at Costco for slightly less.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20x10-Heavy-...item3a6a6c923e

[spacedebris]

This is a bit more expensive than the car bag but it has ventilation to avoid condensation.

http://carcapsules.net/

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by abx131

a costco carport with walls for about $200.

x2
Got mine at Costco for $200 also.

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

Gathered from the web:

No matter what the vehicle, long periods of disuse can be very damaging. So if you’re going to have anything in storage for a long period of time, proper prep can prevent damage. Change any of the fluids that are due to be changed. Always change the oil; you never want oil to sit in an engine for a period of time. Oil that’s been used. And if it needs transmission or cooling systems service, do that before storage.

Also, if it’s going to be less than a year, fill the fuel tank, and use a fuel stabilizer to keep the fuel from turning into varnish. If it’s going to be more than a year, completely drain, evacuate the entire fuel system.

Wash it, wax it if need be. Do whatever is necessary to protect the finish on the vehicle. Then, here’s something a lot of people don’t think about. And that is, the intake and the exhaust. Now, true you’re going to use a fogging oil. Follow the label directions, before you close everything up. But once you’re done with the fogging oil, well, you want to close the exhaust, and you want to close the intake. You can do that with masking tape, but make sure that the masking tape is the type that releases, so it doesn’t bond with the finish on the exhaust or on the intake.

You may want a cover for the vehicle. If it’s going to be outside, you’ll want an outside cover. If it’s going to be inside, you’ll want one specifically for inside storage.

You’re going to want to raise the vehicle up. You want to get the weight of the vehicle up off of the tires, because that will destroy the tires over time. That means you’ll need jack stands or some sort of supporting device. On a vehicle, you want the jack stands out as close to the wheels as is possible. Because you want the springs compressed. You do not want them hanging down and unloaded. Which can damage them over time.

Now, of course you certainly want to take care of the battery, and that means you need a battery maintainer. Traditional type we have over there… but here’s what we’re seeing today. This is electronic, and you can set it for different types of batteries, you can set it for different voltages. It has a lot of different features in it, and it’s very precise at keeping a battery healthy while it’s not being used. Do all of these things, and do it right, and you’ll wind up with a vehicle that will go right back on the road with no problems whatsoever. And if you have a question or comment, drop me a line.

TIPS - STORAGE

1.) Clean And Wax the Finish

We know that your classic's finish is perfect right? But, in case you didn't get your classic properly waxed during the summer cruising months, now is the time to get it done before the temperature drops below freezing. Remember, corrosion's horrible recipe: mix 1 part moisture, with 1 part air, with 1 part dirt and allow to mix indefinitely. Combined, the results are rust! Spend the extra time now to completely remove road rash, such as bugs and road tar. The longer that stuff sits, the more damaged your car or truck's finish will be. Also, touch up any paint chips or nicks.

After washing and drying your classic, apply a thorough coat of wax to all painted and chrome surfaces. Remember, as outdoor temps fluctuate, your car's surface will "sweat" with moisture from condensing air collecting on your vehicle's surface. It's best to protect that surface. And speaking of fluctuating temperatures, you might want to place a large strip of rubber matting or indoor/outdoor carpet under your vehicle to keep evaporating moisture from your garage floor collecting on your classic's undercarriage, causing corrosion to begin.

While you are at it, pay some attention to your vehicle's interior and tires. Vacuum and remove anything that you don't want sitting in your vehicle for the long term. A misplaced ball point pen may freeze, and leak ink all over your precious interior. A word to the wise; if you can remove it, do so!

2.) Maintain Your Fuel System

Over time, gasoline will break down and create a power-robbing varnish within your classic's fuel system. Add a fuel stabilizer to your gas tank and run the engine for a few minutes to allow the agent to mix in with your fuel system lines. Also, make sure that your tank is full of fuel before any storage. Air space within a gas tank allows for air to collect and condensate within the tank, causing rust.


3.) Check Your Coolant Level

I had a friend who didn't properly fill his classic's radiator with the adequate mix of coolant, and the wrong mix of water to coolant ratio caused the water to expand when the temperature dropped. The result? A block of ice blew out the radiator seals! When the ice melted there was quite a mess. Make sure to correctly mix and fill your radiator with the proper coolant. If it has been awhile, you may want to invest in a complete cooling system flush-n-fill process, to ensure the job is done right.


4.) Check Your Oil Level

Some folks will tell you to replace the oil and filter upon storage and then once again in the Spring when you take your classic out of storage. I just make sure all fluid levels are correct, and change the oil and filter in the Spring. Either way, just make sure the fluid levels are correct.


5.) Varmint Proof The Area

You can't allow any critters that make their way into your storage area to make your classic its home for the Winter! Seal up any drafty doors or windows, and place some rodent control devices throughout the area. Remember, mice run straight lines along wall edges, so a few well placed traps around the perimeter of your classic will help deter any unwelcome guests. We've all heard the horror stories of chewed wiring and a dead mouse in the vent system! I'll usually cover the exhaust tips with a thick sweat sock to help protect the chrome finish and block any openings for critters to gain access.


6.) Remove The Battery

Since your classic is sitting idle, remove the vehicle battery and place it on a trickle charger. Also, if you are thinking of storing the battery on the garage floor; don't! Place a wood board between the battery and the concrete. Temperature fluctuations in the concrete will rob the battery and cause premature wear. The board acts as an "insulator" between the concrete and the battery. While you are at it, clean off any corrosion from the battery terminals on both the battery and in your classic.


7.) Off The Floor We Go

Place the vehicle on four heavy duty jack stands. This will relieve spring tension, and in some cases where you may run bias-ply tire, will keep your classic's tires from flat spotting while resting in one spot all Winter. If you run radials, this isn't a concern, but if you run bias tires, you'll hear a "whump-whump" noise of flat spotted bias tires come Spring if you don't. Make sure to place the jack stands on a secure lifting point, especially for heavy classics. Otherwise, you'll bend or possibly break parts, and we don't want that.

8.) Wrap It Up

Invest in a quality breathable car cover. Don't rely on a plastic tarp, as they do not allow rising moist air to pass through. In fact, plastic tarps will promote corrosion! A breathable cover allows the air to pass through, but keep dust and moisture off your classic's finish.

Another Item I've invested in over the last 15+ years for my classic storage is called a "Car Jacket" It is produced by Pine Ridge Enterprises (Michigan). Think of it as a sleeping bag for your classic. You place your vehicle inside the Car Jacket, and zip-seal the entire vehicle. Before you do the final seal supplied packets of calcium chloride placed inside the Car Jacket remove any remaining moisture. Remember the recipe for disaster - Moisture+Air+Dust over time. By removing moisture, dust and air, no corrosive deterioration begins to occur during storage. I've used this product for over 15 years, and my classic comes out the same way it went in 4-5 months earlier: perfect! The Car Jacket is manufactured in various sizes, all the way up to RV size. Follow Pine Ridge's directions for optimum results.

By taking the steps mentioned, your pride and joy will retain it's classic appearance for years to come. There are additional steps you may need to take for storage longer than 6-8 months, like backing off valve springs and other internal engine precautions, but the above mentioned steps ensure a safe Winter hibernation for your classic!

Outdoor Storage
If the only option is outside storage the best thing to do is park the vehicle on plywood over a heavy gauge plastic vapor barrier. This won't keep all the wind blown moisture, rain and snow from getting to the underbody of your vehicle, but it will help quite a bit.

You can take it a step further by getting an over sized piece of heavy gauge plastic and tuck it inside the vehicle and close the doors to hold it in place. You can tape it with duct tape to the unpainted surfaces of the vehicle in front and back, basically a vehicle diaper.

Be very careful to avoid having the plastic sheet touch painted surfaces where moisture can get trapped and cause rust and paint discoloration.

As with indoor storage preparations, out door storage begins with a clean, clean vehicle. Make five fairly large trays from aluminum foil and fill them with mothballs. Place four, one in each foot well back and front and one in the trunk.

Open each window about a ½" or ¾" to allow the interior to breathe. Get some metal window screen to cover the openings. Tuck the topside of the screen inside the window channel and duct tape the bottom to the glass. Don't use tape on any painted surface.

Now do all the indoor preparations, varmint and insect proofing, removing and cleaning the battery and bringing it inside and putting the trickle charger on it. Make sure you pay particular attention to rust and corrosion proofing as well.

By now you're wondering why I haven't talked about covering the body and car covers. Well, the fact is you have to use something to cover the vehicle in order to protect it. That's why indoor storage is the best way to store your vehicle and outdoor storage is the second best way to store your vehicle because it is the only other place to store it.

There are a million choices when it comes to car covers, ranging in price from $19.99 for a car cover made by the El Cheapo Car Cover Company to over $350.00 for a high quality car cover. El Cheapo offers a thin plastic cover that comes in a few sizes such as SUV, pickup truck, car, too big and too small. The last two sizes are, by far, the two most common sizes. They will keep rain and dirt off your car, but if you are store the car for more than 72 hours, they won't help and can only hurt your vehicle.

The most important concern is fit, even if the cover is just porous enough to allow air through but keep moisture out. The wind will blow a loose fitting cover against the painted surfaces of your vehicle and when you uncover it, it will look like it's been sand blasted. Of course as the quality of the cover goes up fit will be better and materials will be friendlier to your vehicle. Naturally good quality comes with a price, but isn't your baby worth it?

In areas that get a lot of sun, look for a car cover that offers protection from ultraviolet radiation to protect your vehicles finish. Also use a good quality protectant on the interior surfaces such as a good leather conditioner and plastic treatment.

If you are in an area that is very wet and windy you can cover the vehicles paint with a couple of soft blankets attached with bungee cords. The blankets will provide an additional protective layer and absorb any moisture that may get through. A top quality breathable custom fit car cover that goes down below the wheel wells is the ideal choice for an outdoor car cover.

http://midwestclassiccars.com/Tips/Storage.asp

http://www.musclecarclub.com/library/show/storage.shtml

http://www.myclassiccar.com/

http://www.youtube.com/user/MyClassi.../videos?view=0

Goss' Garage
http://www.motorweek.org/features/go...g_term_storage
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL23BBB8C675640611
http://www.motorweek.org/features/goss_garage/

Goss' Garage: Long-Term Storage
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=7FEuBkQYRq8