Manual choke carb issue - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

LSUMurse · 01-21-2013, 04:38 AM

The choke on the carb does not want to release when I push the button on the dash back in. It stays out whether the truck is up to temp or not (not sure if that makes a difference). It's not that much of an issue for me, I can get out and manually push the lever the choke is connected to back into position, but the wife drives the truck now and then and I don't want her to have to go under the hood if at all possible. She's a girl, they mess things up!

I don't know much about carbs. Is there anything in particular I should look for? Lubricate? I sprayed the carb down with carb cleaner a few months ago, does it need another hosing off? Are there springs or something mechanical I need to check? I'm planning on replacing this carb within the next year, so I don't really want to rebuild it.

I have a stock 307 with a HEI distributor and the stock 2 bbl carb.

Thanks,
-Stephen

**Ironangel** · 01-21-2013, 06:52 AM

How old is the cable? Maybe removing and cleaning it and then lube it? Keep it simple...Manual chokes should operate freely from open to closed. May be time to replace it and while your at it, make sure the anchor point at the carb is located to maximize leverage angle pulling and pushing. A pic would be helpful...

Don Quixote · 01-21-2013, 09:33 AM

It is common to run into these problems with cheap cables as well. I am using a cheap cable and have the same problem. One temporary fix I have used until I can get a better cable is simply to use an old throttle spring. It is a double spring so I seperated the two pieces to make it a weaker spring and mounted it where the cable connects to the carburetor so it pulls on the choke without necessarily yanking it open, just keeps a bit of tension on it. It is not perfect but it is better than raising the hood every time I cold start it.

68gmsee · 01-21-2013, 10:58 AM

Another thing: If it's too long and you try to force it back in, the spring action on the cable will push it back out. Try to adjust it at the carb in first and if that won't do it you may have to do some cutting and reforming of the wire end to get it just right. Had to do that on my 68.

midniteblues · 01-21-2013, 01:41 PM

what i like too do with sticky cheap cables is pull the entire cable out and throw it in the oil drain bucket for a while let it soak up some oil. after a while pull it out and let it hang so the extra runs off. after a while wipe it dry. now either at this point you could either reinstall it or go one step further you can buy a long piece of shrink wrap(for sealing wires) and slide it over the cable and shrink it up with a heat source and trim it up this will help the lube stay in in the cable and keep it slick. the bigest thing is too make sure the cable is not kinked or making any tight turnsand make sure the end coming out of the cable to the carb is straight and secure.

the return spring is a good idea also

Wrenchbender Ret · 01-21-2013, 05:21 PM

Those are good sugestions. Also it will go in better if you step on the gas a little. That takes the pressure off the fast idle cam.

01-21-2013, 04:38 AM	#1
LSUMurse Registered User Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: New Orleans, La Posts: 406	Manual choke carb issue The choke on the carb does not want to release when I push the button on the dash back in. It stays out whether the truck is up to temp or not (not sure if that makes a difference). It's not that much of an issue for me, I can get out and manually push the lever the choke is connected to back into position, but the wife drives the truck now and then and I don't want her to have to go under the hood if at all possible. She's a girl, they mess things up! I don't know much about carbs. Is there anything in particular I should look for? Lubricate? I sprayed the carb down with carb cleaner a few months ago, does it need another hosing off? Are there springs or something mechanical I need to check? I'm planning on replacing this carb within the next year, so I don't really want to rebuild it. I have a stock 307 with a HEI distributor and the stock 2 bbl carb. Thanks, -Stephen __________________ It's not that I am apathetic, I just don't care. If your life is a joke, it appears death will be your punchline.

01-21-2013, 06:52 AM	#2
Ironangel Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Falls City, Nebraska "100 Miles From Nowhere" Posts: 2,219	Re: Manual choke carb issue How old is the cable? Maybe removing and cleaning it and then lube it? Keep it simple...Manual chokes should operate freely from open to closed. May be time to replace it and while your at it, make sure the anchor point at the carb is located to maximize leverage angle pulling and pushing. A pic would be helpful... __________________ Michael of the clan Hill, "Two Seventy Two's" 71 1-ton Dually 350 4-Speed 71 C/50 Grain Truck, 350 Split-Axle 4-Speed 02 3/4 ton Express 14 Indian Chief Vintage 1952 Ford 8N, "Only Ford Allowed On The Property" "Be American, Buy American"

01-21-2013, 09:33 AM	#3
Don Quixote Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Woodlawn, TN Posts: 275	Re: Manual choke carb issue It is common to run into these problems with cheap cables as well. I am using a cheap cable and have the same problem. One temporary fix I have used until I can get a better cable is simply to use an old throttle spring. It is a double spring so I seperated the two pieces to make it a weaker spring and mounted it where the cable connects to the carburetor so it pulls on the choke without necessarily yanking it open, just keeps a bit of tension on it. It is not perfect but it is better than raising the hood every time I cold start it. __________________ Rocinante: 1972 GMC C25, 292, SM465, 14 bolt, power nothing, 440k and still handles my PCS moves Jorge: Kia Roller-skate with lots of buttons for the wife Wovoka: 2017 Indian Chief Vintage, better on gas but not much So far, this is the oldest I've ever been.

01-21-2013, 10:58 AM	#4
68gmsee Active Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Centrally located between Houston, Austin and Waco. BCS area. Posts: 7,947	Re: Manual choke carb issue Another thing: If it's too long and you try to force it back in, the spring action on the cable will push it back out. Try to adjust it at the carb in first and if that won't do it you may have to do some cutting and reforming of the wire end to get it just right. Had to do that on my 68. __________________ 68 GMC 250/3 speed Saginaw p/b p/s 69 Chevy 350/350 currently in pieces still lookin for a cab 06 Trailblazer I just want a vehicle that I can work on, that won't talk to me, leave error msgs or keep track of how I drive...

01-21-2013, 01:41 PM	#5
midniteblues Registered User Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: strausstown pa Posts: 3,394	Re: Manual choke carb issue what i like too do with sticky cheap cables is pull the entire cable out and throw it in the oil drain bucket for a while let it soak up some oil. after a while pull it out and let it hang so the extra runs off. after a while wipe it dry. now either at this point you could either reinstall it or go one step further you can buy a long piece of shrink wrap(for sealing wires) and slide it over the cable and shrink it up with a heat source and trim it up this will help the lube stay in in the cable and keep it slick. the bigest thing is too make sure the cable is not kinked or making any tight turnsand make sure the end coming out of the cable to the carb is straight and secure. the return spring is a good idea also __________________ 81 camaro 355 4/spd 342 posi my first love. 67 swb step 454/4spd ott 373 posi 4/7 drop. 2000 s10 zr2 little blue truck that never gets stuck. '74 heald super bronc vt8. tecumseh powered moon rover.

01-21-2013, 05:21 PM	#6
Wrenchbender Ret Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Overland Park, Ks. Posts: 5,207	Re: Manual choke carb issue Those are good sugestions. Also it will go in better if you step on the gas a little. That takes the pressure off the fast idle cam.



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