Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step

[rustytruck50]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

And to add insult to injury, I still have no brake pedal. Bled the m/c till all the air bubbles were gone, then reverse bled the lines till no bubbles. Pedal goes all the way to the floor and won't pump up. So there still has to be a significant amount of air in it somewhere. The tool I'm using can force fluid thru the orifices in the m/c, so I may try that tomorrow... or gravity bleed, although I've never had much luck with that. One way or the other, I'll get 'er done.

That brake stuff is/can be unnecessarily frustrating. I fought that last summer with my '72. The m/c that the parts store swore up & down was correct turned out to be wrong. I couldn't get the brakes to bleed by gravity or with a hand vacuum pump. Once I looked it up myself on another parts store website & had them cross check the number, the problem was solved & reassured myself that I did remember how to do brakes! You may have been given the wrong master on yours to have it do the same thing....just a idea. I'm sure you'll get it figured out.

[Jason7121]

Hi Vic thought I would chime in on the window moldings. After several attempts with mine and 4 different glass shops I got mine done. The trick for us was to use precision brand weatherstrips and factory stainless trim that we polished. Aftermarket trim fits terrible. There were 2 different used on these trucks a deep groove and shallow groove trim the deep one works better to hold trim in the gasket. Whatever trim you get make sure gasket matches either deep or shallow. As far as brakes go I had same issue your having. I had luck bleeding the system with engine running and using the hydroboost to help push fluid through the system and also adjusting the hydroboost push rod until there was 1/2 Freeplay. Hope this helps your build looks great!

[Jason7121]

Yeah check push rod between hydroboost and master cylinder for adjustment if pushrod is to shallow pedal will have alot of Freeplay and go to the floor.

[Aberdare]

Originally Posted by Jason7121

Yeah check push rod between hydroboost and master cylinder for adjustment if pushrod is to shallow pedal will have alot of Freeplay and go to the floor.

Yep... probably the single most overlooked item when mating new parts together. After mating the master cylinder to booster, adjusting the pedal to booster rod free play should bring everything into proper working order.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Jason7121

Hi Vic thought I would chime in on the window moldings. After several attempts with mine and 4 different glass shops I got mine done. The trick for us was to use precision brand weatherstrips and factory stainless trim that we polished. Aftermarket trim fits terrible. There were 2 different used on these trucks a deep groove and shallow groove trim the deep one works better to hold trim in the gasket. Whatever trim you get make sure gasket matches either deep or shallow. As far as brakes go I had same issue your having. I had luck bleeding the system with engine running and using the hydroboost to help push fluid through the system and also adjusting the hydroboost push rod until there was 1/2 Freeplay. Hope this helps your build looks great!

Thanks, Jason, your advice on the trim is what makes this forum so valuable. I've been on the fence about converting to the reveal trim as I think it looks very nice. However, like anyone else that's purchased aftermarket trim from the various vendors, I figured it might be tough to work with... not to mention the heartburn if it doesn't turn our well. I had to go great lengths to get the aftermarket stainless drip rail trim to fit, so I'm thinking maybe I'll give the windshield trim a pass. Besides, apparently they don't make the matching trim for the small rear window so it would be plain anyway.

How are things in Visalia? I bought my first '69 GTO RA4 Judge from Arnold Wiebe there when I was stationed in Lemoore. Had to bribe Kathy with ice cream to get her to "just go look at it".

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

That brake stuff is/can be unnecessarily frustrating. I fought that last summer with my '72. The m/c that the parts store swore up & down was correct turned out to be wrong. I couldn't get the brakes to bleed by gravity or with a hand vacuum pump. Once I looked it up myself on another parts store website & had them cross check the number, the problem was solved & reassured myself that I did remember how to do brakes! You may have been given the wrong master on yours to have it do the same thing....just a idea. I'm sure you'll get it figured out.

Fortunately, I got the entire unit (hydraulics, m/c, linkage, etc.) from CPP so it's all correct. Turns out the problem was mainly air in the system. I have a Phoenix Systems "one man" bleeder setup. They make it look easy, but I can't seem to achieve the same results. It does fill the lines quickly, but there's always residual air. Today, Kathy and I used the old reliable method of one person pumping the brake pedal and the other cracking open the bleeder valves. Two trips around the truck and we had pretty good pedal. Will give it one more go after the engine is running and the hydraulic assist is functional. The really good news was that there were no new leaks. At least until the assist kicks in.

Originally Posted by Aberdare

Yep... probably the single most overlooked item when mating new parts together. After mating the master cylinder to booster, adjusting the pedal to booster rod free play should bring everything into proper working order.

I may need to revisit the free play once it's running. I adjusted the threaded rod coming out of the back of the Hydra-Stop just to where there's no preload. I can rotate the rod maybe a half turn back and forth between the spots where it tightens up, so I split the difference and snugged up the jam nut.

Rest of the day was spent sorting out a few electrical gremlins. The only thing left is the E-Stopp parking brake. It worked great when I tested it during the installation. However, when I applied power to it the the other day, it partially set the brake and quit. Now it just beeps. So I'll be on the hook with them tomorrow to see if they have any suggestions.

[Jason7121]

Everything is good here in Visalia that dealer you mentioned is no longer there. I worked at Visalia GMC for several years now in Selma at Chev dealer. I forgot you had small rear window so your right no molding��

[ChuckLee]

I had those APR GT3 mirrors on a RX7 last year. They look sweet....just hope you never need to use them in any functional way lol.

[knomadd]

It's been too long since I've been on the forum, I had some suggestions for you on the window trim and the brakes, but everyone else has already said them, and you've pretty much figured it out. That's why this forum is so great! So many members willing to help out when they can.

Oh, to add to the window trim info, I've found out the '70 and older stuff is the better windshield stainless. The tab is centered in the gasket, not just deeper. The '71 & '72 trim has an offset and shallower tab, and my glass guy swears they are a pain in the rear to get seated properly. And he told me if I bought aftermarket stuff he wouldn't touch it. I haven't had him install my trim yet though. I need a new windshield first. I'm just enjoying driving it too much to pull it apart again.

[sduckworth13]

Glad to hear you got the brakes bled and solved the leak issue, hope it doesn’t spring any leaks when you get to shake down.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by ChuckLee

I had those APR GT3 mirrors on a RX7 last year. They look sweet....just hope you never need to use them in any functional way lol.

That's so true! I ended up mounting them on the door skin instead of the window corner because I couldn't get them positioned where you could see all of the mirror. I was losing about a quarter of the view and they're so small I figured I needed every bit of them. Safety over style for a change.

Originally Posted by knomadd

It's been too long since I've been on the forum, I had some suggestions for you on the window trim and the brakes, but everyone else has already said them, and you've pretty much figured it out. That's why this forum is so great! So many members willing to help out when they can.

Oh, to add to the window trim info, I've found out the '70 and older stuff is the better windshield stainless. The tab is centered in the gasket, not just deeper. The '71 & '72 trim has an offset and shallower tab, and my glass guy swears they are a pain in the rear to get seated properly. And he told me if I bought aftermarket stuff he wouldn't touch it. I haven't had him install my trim yet though. I need a new windshield first. I'm just enjoying driving it too much to pull it apart again.

Amen to that, Duane. I've decided to forego the stainless trim since I'd be using aftermarket and I don't need the headache.

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

Glad to hear you got the brakes bled and solved the leak issue, hope it doesn’t spring any leaks when you get to shake down.

Me too, Scott, but if it does, I'll use a bigger wrench... or vise grips.

Kathy and I went to the trim shop today to get an appointment to do the interior. Figured it might be awhile since he always seems busy, but we caught him in a slow stretch. We'll be dropping it off on Friday. I have a few things I need to do first, so that should give me just enough time. I've already lined up a roll back to transport it. They'll be doing the carpet, door panels, kick panels, headliner, subwoofer box, and console. Plus they'll remove the headrest hardware from the seats and sew in new panels. This will definitely accelerate my schedule!

[Oldironracing]

What kind of dual fan controller did you use and what are the covers on the gas and brake pedals ? I'm in the process of the LS3 in my truck. Just got the motor and trans last week.
Did you try to use the oil pan that come with motor?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Oldironracing

What kind of dual fan controller did you use and what are the covers on the gas and brake pedals ? I'm in the process of the LS3 in my truck. Just got the motor and trans last week.
Did you try to use the oil pan that come with motor?

I bought a Derale aluminum shroud and dual fan setup plus the integrated PWM control module #16796. It bolted right into the shroud after removing a small knockout panel. It's fully adjustable, rated at 65 amps and will accept a +12V feed from the trinary switch if you're running a/c. Online reviews are mixed, so you may want to do some research. My feeling is that high amp draw circuits need excellent connections to survive. Poor crimps or undersize wire can mimic other symptoms and make you think the box is bad when it's actually something much more basic. If it's really critical, I crimp and solder then cover with heat shrink tubing.

The pan I used is a GM 12631828 for a Cadillac CTS-V. My LS3 came with the 2010 Camaro pan which I chose not to modify. I did one for my bud, Chip, but it was a truck pan which has a sump that's too deep for our trucks, but sits far enough back to clear the X-member. I sectioned it about 2" but had to also modify the windage tray and the oil pickup. The kit I bought from Improved Racing included the pan, dipstick, windage tray and oil pickup tube. The windage tray is exactly the same as the one that comes with the Camaro pan so you don't really need it. But the the pickup and dipstick will make things a lot easier.

The pedal covers came with the 2015 Dodge Challenger I bought a few years ago. They were in a box in the trunk and I never installed them on it. Was looking for something to dress up the Caddy pedal that came with the GMPP harness and they fit after doing a little whittling.

[Oldironracing]

Called Nesmith Chevrolet where bout the motor today and they said it should have come with the muscle car pan. There sending me one for free to replace it. I bought the 500 hp set up.
I agree with you on the crip and solder then heat shrink . My have more questions later if you don't mind. We just got done building my son a bobber truck so now dad can get back on his.

[Low Elco]

Glad to hear you're makin' tracks. Who's doing the trim work?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Oldironracing

Called Nesmith Chevrolet where bout the motor today and they said it should have come with the muscle car pan. There sending me one for free to replace it. I bought the 500 hp set up.
I agree with you on the crip and solder then heat shrink . My have more questions later if you don't mind. We just got done building my son a bobber truck so now dad can get back on his.

Can't beat a deal like that on the pan... especially if they swap out the other pieces like the pickup and dipstick if needed. Bobber trucks are way cool!!

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Glad to hear you're makin' tracks. Who's doing the trim work?

Jeff Riddle at Gladstone Custom Upholstery. They did a 58 Corvette that sold at Barrett Jackson a few weeks ago for $440,000.

...and high ho, high ho it's off to trim we go.

[Aberdare]

Looking dammed fine there in the sunlight, Vic... too bad it's not under it's own power screaming down the blacktop.

[rustytruck50]

Looks great out in the sun!

[Oldironracing]

Looks good. Hope mine turns out that nice

[Ol Blue K20]

Wow! I'm drooling. Looks awesome in the sun.

[Elliot949]

Absolutely awesome... beautiful Vic

[Vic1947]

Thanks everyone! I'm anxious to see how the interior progresses now. It's a little bit like a custom paint job... never looks quite like what you think it will.

While the truck is outta here, I broom'd the place down good and then got started on the plate that surrounds the shifter and e-level. It's all my little mill will handle, travel wise. In fact, I had to shim one of the stops on the vise. The Y axis has 7" of travel and the part is 7" at the widest end. Rounding the corners will be tricky. Some of it will have to be finished by hand. I had a quote from a local shop to rough it out with waterjet and finish it on a CNC for around $650 as I recall. I'll have to live with the poor man's CNC... a corner rounder and a file.

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Thanks everyone! I'm anxious to see how the interior progresses now. It's a little bit like a custom paint job... never looks quite like what you think it will.

While the truck is outta here, I broom'd the place down good and then got started on the plate that surrounds the shifter and e-level. It's all my little mill will handle, travel wise. In fact, I had to shim one of the stops on the vise. The Y axis has 7" of travel and the part is 7" at the widest end. Rounding the corners will be tricky. Some of it will have to be finished by hand. I had a quote from a local shop to rough it out with waterjet and finish it on a CNC for around $650 as I recall. I'll have to live with the poor man's CNC... a corner rounder and a file.

With the way your stuff looks, it's going to come out great!!!

[Low Elco]

Truck looks great! Not for nuthin'- I happen to know someone with a Bridgeport and a lathe- yours anytime, just holler.

[knomadd]

Man, CRLS is looking better and better. Can't wait to see the interior!

[jeh]

Looks great Vic, anxious to see the interior !!!!