Rear Shock Upper Mount - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

77K10inKC · 02-25-2013, 01:17 PM

I'm putting on new Bilsteins at all four corners, and everything went as well as could be expected on a 35 yr old truck.... until I get to the right rear side. Looks like the PO welded the stud to the frame on the upper mount, and the Bilsteins already have a pressed-in stud. So I have 1 too many studs and not enough holes!

The weld is pretty fat and thick, so I'm leery of what's behind it. The frame around it looks solid with no visible cracks. Should I get that stud out of there and redrill, or leave it and try to press the stud out of the Bilstein? I'm a shade tree mechanice with no welder or anything, so either scenario is equal pain.

Here's the front side of the welded stud (also welded on the back side) and the pressed in stud on the shock:

northeimcustom · 02-25-2013, 01:39 PM

id cut it off with a grinder drill a new hole....seems easiest to me

chebyshortbox65 · 02-25-2013, 01:50 PM

Cut the washer off the new shock and remove the new pin a lot easier then cutting the old one s,off the frame
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Wrecked1982 · 02-25-2013, 10:54 PM

you pretty much have the two above way to do it. now you decide.

Tx Firefighter · 02-25-2013, 10:58 PM

The reason someone has welded the old stud to the frame is that it's been run loose and probably wallowed the hole out. Or they might have run air shocks which stressed the stud out. That is super common on these trucks. They just welded it to fix the issue and keep it from happening again.

By rar the easiest route would be to hacksaw the stud off the new shock and leave sleeping dogs lie on the welded stud on the frame.
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burb1085 · 02-25-2013, 11:51 PM

My Suburban had the right rear wallowed out. I just welded a couple shock washers to the frame. It's been holding about three years now. I think he over did it, welding the whole stud on there. But more than likely that's why it's there.

INSIDIOUS '86 · 02-26-2013, 12:13 AM

Looks like it may be cracking to me in the pic
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**rs74** · 02-26-2013, 02:05 AM

BEFORE you do anything, if you are going to cut the one end of the stud off to get the shock off. Measure the stud where the shock rides and then measure the one that is welded on to make sure they are the same. I'll be damned if I did that and they were a different size then you are back at square one. They may be the same size but do your homework first. JMO

77K10inKC · 02-26-2013, 12:10 PM

Thanks, guys. I'll be getting back to this as soon as I dig out from this latest snow storm! The 2nd major storm in 5 days here in KC.

I need to check but I don't think the bushing size on the Bilstein will match up with that welded stud. Ironically, the left side went in perfect and that mounting hole looked like it did in 1977. I can see where it would be easy to not get these nuts torqued down properly cause you need to get a wrench on the inside of frame rail, and it's more crowded in there on the right side.

02-25-2013, 01:17 PM	#1
77K10inKC Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 6	Rear Shock Upper Mount I'm putting on new Bilsteins at all four corners, and everything went as well as could be expected on a 35 yr old truck.... until I get to the right rear side. Looks like the PO welded the stud to the frame on the upper mount, and the Bilsteins already have a pressed-in stud. So I have 1 too many studs and not enough holes! The weld is pretty fat and thick, so I'm leery of what's behind it. The frame around it looks solid with no visible cracks. Should I get that stud out of there and redrill, or leave it and try to press the stud out of the Bilstein? I'm a shade tree mechanice with no welder or anything, so either scenario is equal pain. Here's the front side of the welded stud (also welded on the back side) and the pressed in stud on the shock: Attached Images

02-25-2013, 01:39 PM	#2
northeimcustom Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: WISCONSIN Posts: 291	Re: Rear Shock Upper Mount id cut it off with a grinder drill a new hole....seems easiest to me __________________ ^MY BUILD STORY^

02-25-2013, 01:50 PM	#3
chebyshortbox65 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: yucca valley,ca Posts: 206	Re: Rear Shock Upper Mount Cut the washer off the new shock and remove the new pin a lot easier then cutting the old one s,off the frame Posted via Mobile Device

02-25-2013, 10:54 PM	#4
Wrecked1982 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Cold Canada Posts: 310	Re: Rear Shock Upper Mount you pretty much have the two above way to do it. now you decide.

02-25-2013, 10:58 PM	#5
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Re: Rear Shock Upper Mount The reason someone has welded the old stud to the frame is that it's been run loose and probably wallowed the hole out. Or they might have run air shocks which stressed the stud out. That is super common on these trucks. They just welded it to fix the issue and keep it from happening again. By rar the easiest route would be to hacksaw the stud off the new shock and leave sleeping dogs lie on the welded stud on the frame. Posted via Mobile Device

02-25-2013, 11:51 PM	#6
burb1085 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Lancaster,Oh. Posts: 138	Re: Rear Shock Upper Mount My Suburban had the right rear wallowed out. I just welded a couple shock washers to the frame. It's been holding about three years now. I think he over did it, welding the whole stud on there. But more than likely that's why it's there.

02-26-2013, 12:13 AM	#7
INSIDIOUS '86 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: washington Posts: 4,178	Re: Rear Shock Upper Mount Looks like it may be cracking to me in the pic Posted via Mobile Device __________________ 377 sbc thumpr cam autogear m23 muncie 3:73 Detroit trutrac 3''spintech prostreet mufflers xpipe 1 3/4 headers build thread !http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=577217 Iroc gauge threadhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=554511

02-26-2013, 02:05 AM	#8
rs74 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Illinois Posts: 2,957	Re: Rear Shock Upper Mount BEFORE you do anything, if you are going to cut the one end of the stud off to get the shock off. Measure the stud where the shock rides and then measure the one that is welded on to make sure they are the same. I'll be damned if I did that and they were a different size then you are back at square one. They may be the same size but do your homework first. JMO __________________ Roy 85 Short Bed Silverado- Work in progress. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=564818 1987 R10 shortie

02-26-2013, 12:10 PM	#9
77K10inKC Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 6	Re: Rear Shock Upper Mount Thanks, guys. I'll be getting back to this as soon as I dig out from this latest snow storm! The 2nd major storm in 5 days here in KC. I need to check but I don't think the bushing size on the Bilstein will match up with that welded stud. Ironically, the left side went in perfect and that mounting hole looked like it did in 1977. I can see where it would be easy to not get these nuts torqued down properly cause you need to get a wrench on the inside of frame rail, and it's more crowded in there on the right side.



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