Aftermarket Underbed Fuel Tank Filler Neck/Cap Options

[NW Task Force]

I was wondering how many folks on here are running the underbed tanks sold in the catalogs? Specifically, I am looking at what options I have for filler necks and fuel caps. I want to make the fuel cap flush or slightly counter-sunk into my wood bed. Right now, I would need an incredibly short filler neck to make this work. I bought an aftermarket filler tube w/cap.........way too tall! What are people using to make these tanks work with filler necks & caps? I would much rather return the filler neck/cap I bought and find something that directly bolts on without much hassle. I attached some photos to show my problem..........

[Dan in Pasadena]

Question: Are you bolting that tank onto the top or the bottom flange of the frame?

If the top flange, would the tank hang too low if you droped it to the bottom flange?

If you leave it where it is, can you modify that filler neck or insert it INTO the tank opening with a rubber sleeve and clamps?

[Denee007]

Well, I'm going to tag along with you on your thread~ you know I'll encounter the same problem when it comes time to install my bed! I just called Brothertrucks to see if they know anything, but they're not open yet.
dne'

[Denee007]

I just went out and placed a slat of my floor down by the gas tank inlet.
I just got off the phone with Brothers, I'm sure other vendors have stuff as well. It's just that Brother's is where I bought my tank. The links below offer some ideas~ I hope this helps that there is hope
dne'

http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodin...number=SFF4787

http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodin...number=BFDOVAL

http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodin...number=BFDRECT

[Daze57]

imho i think dan has a good idea cut what ya dont need off and use a rubber sleeve and clamps - have seen it b4 and seems to work out well
good luck !

[skip99]

Are those tanks able to be removed from below?
In case of a problem once the bed is on?
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[Denee007]

Originally Posted by skip99

Are those tanks able to be removed from below?
In case of a problem once the bed is on?
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Hi skip! yes, it can be lowered down. On the right frame beside my tank, you can see one of the nut things? That bar goes down on the lower part of the frame, NOT where it is in the pic. Marking the holes for this was kind of a chore, but when located, then welded that bar into place. I'm using my Little Mule II to hold the tank in place. It's actually a pretty neat tank! I'd like to hear what NW Task force had to say about the install~

http://www.classiccarsandtools.com/?s=little+mule

[starterman99]

Thats the same one I used.I had to cut it down.when you cut hole in bed wood you need to be right on target theres not much room for flex if your not lined up with tank filler.Epecially if you countersink the filler to be flush with surface of wood.

[Denee007]

That is really nice Starteman!
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[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Denee007

That is really nice Starteman!
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It's beautiful!

Can we see some more pictures of your truck please?

[Denee007]

I just have one more question please? With cap so small, would gasoline bubble up and get on the wood/varathane, or whatever it is coated with?
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[NW Task Force]

Originally Posted by Denee007

I'd like to hear what NW Task force had to say about the install~

The tank install was fairly easy. I bought mine from Classic Parts 55-59 catalog. I was kinda disapointed with the mounting holes/straps........one of my straps had to be shaved down to fit the inside frame rail. It was a little extra work, but worth it when it was all completed.

So are people cutting down the tank tube inlet or the aftermarket filler neck/cap assembly.............or a combination of both? Just wanted to clarify that. I am glad so many people are chiming in with options and pics.

[fabguy]

This thread is perfect timing as I will be starting mine in a couple of weeks.
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[Denee007]

Sometimes some of the "simplest" installations wind up being frustrating! Threads like this answer some of the questions/concerns that arise which hopefully if someone utilizes the search, they would be able seek an answer to their concern. Though this particular gas tank installation should be a no brainer and straight forward, we (everyone here) as fabricators problem solve all the time generally with good results, if not we go back to the drawing board and seek more answers, that's why I'm here on this wonderful site, to get answers and possibly helping another
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[mr48chev]

With those boat deck gas fillers you always have to run a short piece of hose with two clamps. You are also going to have to have a separate vent for the tank as those don't vent. I'd run the vent hose over and up inside one of the stake pockets about half way up with some sort of filter on it.

I've posted this source for the fillers before but will again as they have nice stainless and it's a whole lot less expensive than what the truck goodie vendors sell the same item for. I buy a lot of pieces for my sailboat from them.

http://www.marinepartdepot.com/new316ststcl2.html Scroll down the page.

[starterman99]

Originally Posted by Denee007

I just have one more question please? With cap so small, would gasoline bubble up and get on the wood/varathane, or whatever it is coated with?
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I have not had any problem filling up .but I have never filled more after nozzle clicks off.the nozzle goes down into filler more than on new cars because it does not have the restrictor inside.

[NW Task Force]

Originally Posted by starterman99

I have not had any problem filling up .but I have never filled more after nozzle clicks off.the nozzle goes down into filler more than on new cars because it does not have the restrictor inside.

Starterman99, did you have to cut down the filler neck/cap or the tank neck. Or maybe even a combination of both? I have the same filler neck/cap as the one pictured with your pickup. Thanks

[starterman99]

Originally Posted by NW Task Force

Starterman99, did you have to cut down the filler neck/cap or the tank neck. Or maybe even a combination of both? I have the same filler neck/cap as the one pictured with your pickup. Thanks

I only cut down the fillerneck,but I think when all assembled there was only 1/4" space between the two parts.getting the clamps in position and tightening was a little challenging as theres not much room up there to see or manuver a screwdriver or ratchet.I only had 3 or 4 inches of hose length if I remember right.Alignment is very important.That may be why you see a lot with the big square fuel door in the bed floor.

[_Ogre]

i would trim either or both to get them to match up. no mater what you do make sure that you can loosen the clamps to drop the tank without removing bed wood. i've had to drop my tank 4 times, mostly due to the internal pump and once on a road trip. your tank should mount under the bottom flange on the frame so that you can drop it. i have the nuts welded to the frame to aid in removal of the tank.

[NW Task Force]

Originally Posted by starterman99

I only cut down the fillerneck,but I think when all assembled there was only 1/4" space between the two parts.getting the clamps in position and tightening was a little challenging as theres not much room up there to see or manuver a screwdriver or ratchet.I only had 3 or 4 inches of hose length if I remember right.Alignment is very important.That may be why you see a lot with the big square fuel door in the bed floor.

Thank You! I appreciate the quick response to my question. Right now I am using a one-piece stained sheet of plywood for my bed floor. It looks decent until I can later afford oak planks and polished stainless strips. The tank is mounted on the lower chassis flange, so pulling it down later would not be a big deal if I had to. I will definitely keep your measurements in mind while I modify the filler neck/cap to work.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

....no matter what you do make sure that you can loosen the clamps to drop the tank without removing the bedwood

...I have the nuts welded to the frame to aid in removal of the tank.

Do THIS!

...and show us detailed photos!

[mr48chev]

NWT you are going to need a really looooong screw driver to tighten those clamps with that sheet of plywood on there. or long skinny arms.

[Denee007]

Well, I'm thinking this option, possibly. I like the flip up lid to access the filler, but was wondering what do I put on the filler neck of the tank to keep gas from sloshing out? A cork? plus if I have to drop the gas tank, I don't have to mess around with disconnecting a hose from the bed. What do you think?
NW task, you might think about this option since you're using plywood.





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[mr48chev]

Denee you will need some sort of gas cap that seals and then a vent tube that runs up several inches higher than the high point of the tank to prevent any sloshing out.

The cap is up to you and your imagination. I've been thinking about using a late model neck on my truck and using one of those caps that you don't have to remove but just push the nozzle through a flap door in the middle of the cap. Similar to this http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=990009 That one should be available about anywhere.

[Denee007]

Oh, that Stant fill cap is really neat! Fortunately, on my tank and NWTF (NWtaskforce), there is a vent on the top of the tank and all we have to is, do like you say, run a hose from it to vent the tank. I'm really not sure at this point what I'm really going to use. I have time, but NWTF has got me thinking, as well as all those involved on his thread

I'll probably call upon this thread a few weeks from now showing what I did
Thanks!!


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