rockers adjustment.

[mgold97]

After you get all rockers tied down should you turn engine over by hand 3rd time to bring it back to tdc intake stroke or leave it on tdc exhaust stroke before starting a motor?

[mgold97]

PS when I turned 360 to tdc number 6 cyl my 1 cyl rockers got a bit loose again . Is it normal? Should I re tighten everything or tighten up 1 cyl valves only.

[mgold97]

Nothing? Should all rockers be tight after both steps are done?

[chebyshortbox65]

Yes some will be a little loose until the lifters pump up,you should also soak the lifters in clean oil for 24 hours before installing them
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[Rufton]

Some soak some don't. I don't soak because I don't want any oil inside lifters. I prefer to do break-in w/ empty lifters. That way cam stress is reduced for about a minute.

Really lost me at turning one cylinder to TDC before first start. I pay no mind to position of any piston before cranking.

Lifters will get loose when engine turned w/o oil pressure because oil will squeeze out of lifter and it collapses.

Good idea to read a couple break-in guides before first start.

[mgold97]

Thank you guys for your input. This is my first engine assembly and about ready to start it up this weekend, but really scared so just trying to make sure nothing is loose or will cause any damage lol.

[mgold97]

I meant number one cylinder tdc since I had to drop new distributor in and engine didn't have one when I got it. From what i read you adjust half rockers on number one cylinder tdc than rotate it to number six cylinder tdc to adjust the rest. Once I was done i turned it one more time to number one cylinder tdc and dropped my distributor in lining rotor up with number one cylinder.

PS Sorry if you are still confused lol

[Rufton]

There are different methods for adjusting lifters. Some are designed to be quick and minimize crankshaft rotation. People like to minimized rotation on flat tappet applications to avoid wiping too much assembly lube off cam. If you pick a complicated one then you should take notes. If valve spring open pressure isn't high then you can go cylinder to cylinder and turn crank a few times.

When loading distributor I put #1 TDC then drop in dist so that rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug terminal. Before pulling an engine I put #1 TDC and mark rotor w/ white paint so rebuild will be on the money.

[mgold97]

My engine didn't have a distributor when I got it or marks.

[Rufton]

Originally Posted by mgold97

My engine didn't have a distributor when I got it or marks.

Pretty easy to line up rotor for #1 spark when #1 piston is TDC; can do some googling or buy rebuild book.
The important thing is that dist gear is compatible w/ your camshaft.
Some have swapped cam and found out dist is not compatible the hard way.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Make sure the lifter is on the base circle of the cam have the lifters soaked overnight. When tightening spin the pushrods till they stop. Then your too tight and back off half a turn
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[Rufton]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

Make sure the lifter is on the base circle of the cam have the lifters soaked overnight. When tightening spin the pushrods till they stop. Then your too tight and back off half a turn
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I don't soak flat tappet hyd lifters because oil may leak in and increase initial start up valve train stress. I soak rollers.

I test hydraulic lifter bleed down rate and check for internal debris (which I have found on new lifters).

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Originally Posted by Rufton

I don't soak flat tappet hyd lifters because oil may leak in and increase initial start up valve train stress. I soak rollers.

I test hydraulic lifter bleed down rate and check for internal debris (which I have found on new lifters).

So when you start the motor what do you suspect happens when you prime it? Or do you just put it together and fire it up so the oil pump isn't initially stressing the cam? Valve train stress is so low on the scale of things to worry about. Using a zinc moly cam grease ensures all slides nice untill the crank spins oil onto it. Not to mention reduced ratio rockers or running without inside valve springs for initial break in. Not soaking flat tappet lifters is a bad Idea since that allows air in them and will make them smack around in the can creating more stress and wear than having that oil cushion. Besides they pump up more when you prime and all cam manufactures recommend soaking.
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[Rufton]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

Not soaking flat tappet lifters is a bad Idea since that allows air in them and will make them smack around in the can creating more stress and wear than having that oil cushion. Besides they pump up more when you prime and all cam manufactures recommend soaking.
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Soaking lifters for a year won't get all that air out.
Manually stroking submerged lifter on the bench will get most of the air out.
To verify, you can stroke one of your soaked lifters and see the bubbles.

If the gremlins are lifter tick damage vs cam lobe wipe; I'm more concerned w/ cam lobe wipe.

Are you sure all cam manufactures recommend soaking lifters?